Poolguy
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Posts posted by Poolguy
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A floor finished with Tung oil can be sanded and oiled at a rate of about 25-30 m2 per day depending on how well it is laid. It can be walked on about 30 minutes after its coated with oil.
It dries hard and can be used as normal after 48 hours.
It reaches maximum Hardness (polymerised) after 72 hours.
It is non toxic and the smell is quite pleasant while applying - you do not have to evacuate the house. You can repair any part of the floor without stripping and reapply as with lacquers and varnish.
If you need more information on this process send me a PM or Email
Andrew
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Cookehouse
Depends on what you mean by Traditional - whose tradition.
I think in the past French have used everything from Shellac to bee's wax to animal fat.
If you want to get the most beautiful finish which using natural products and non toxic - use Tung oil.
If you need more information, see my ad under 'house renovations' or send me a PM,email and I'll show you some recent examples.
Please don't consider lacquer or vanishes whether solvent or water based. They ALL use accelerators which are class 1 carcinogens. these must be avoided at all costs.
Andrew
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Hi Tina and Jane
I have sent you a private message about pool contractors
Andrew
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Brian
Please post more information covering the load that you need to supply. As far as solar photovoltaic cells are concerned:
In the high sun areas, figure about 1kW per square meter for
about 6 hours per day. Max collector efficiency is roughly 25%,You'll need to spend a reasonable investment on this sort of technology to get enough power to drive a Modern house. If you 'downsize' your needs then it gets less spendy. One of the biggest costs of course are the batteries, but this can be achieved in a number of ways if your creative.
Wind power is no different really except that you can also get power at night.. but there is often no wind in the summer, just as there is little available radiation in the winter. Its an integrated system you need.
However, there are, I think priorities to consider before to you go 'all the way' to manufacturing your own electricity. More later.
Andrew
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Some News....about AC
I went to the Prefecture in La Rochelle (17) yesterday for some other stuff and I asked in at the Immob office about AC. The Official said that it was still OK and that he would still offer Carte Gris for same.... SHOCK.
I also had occasion to go to the Tribunal of Commerce and asked the same question and they said (quite categorically) that it was dead and gone, but (and this was the interesting bit) it has been replaced by a new status....Commerçant (or Negotiator) who is a commissioned agent. So nothing has really changed except the name and where you register.
Next I went to the Chambre d Commerce and they confirmed the above and that they would cheerfully issue the required dossier in exchange for the sight of a contract from an Immobilier who, incidentally could be anywhere in France.
I think that I am still confused. Has something actually happened with all this fuss or is it just that some authority has poached a role from another and changed the name in the process. Otherwise Alus calme
Andrew -
Well.. now that I have lowered the discussion to an completely unattractive level we have some stuff to get out there. But I should apologise for my Crescendo, I'm more fond of Berceuse, the former is so ... Baroque!
Lets put aside who we are and what we think we know an focus on the ideas and the 'what is useful and what is not'.
What's not useful is to derive an unsound conclusions from poor information.
You mentioned pollution... which is what, Carbon? yes very nasty when there is too much of it. We are made of it so are trees. CO2 is taken from the atmosphere and stored in the wood until it is burned and then its released (Nil sum)... it is also released if you don't burn it.... dead trees degrade and give off methane (mostly carbon ... Nil sum) That is why its environmentally sound to burn wood. Burning OIl gives of carbon and a suite of nearly 260 other compounds (hmmm nasty ..yes)
burning wood is Inefficient... baloney, systems exist off the shelf which are every bit as efficient in Kw yield to oil and gas. Some are more efficient so that one will not wash. The fact that some households might still want to use an inefficient open fire might not be the best choice, but it looks nice.
Including Transport in the debate.. will be the death of the argument that oil and gas are a viable sources of energy. During 1994, a pipeline burst and spread more than 1 million tons of oil on the tundra, in the Komi Republic, Norther Russia. £60 million was spent, and 6 lives were lost over the clean up; Some think that the Iraq war was all about oil & gas.The energy cost of getting this resource to your door is nearly as mush as the energy it delivers. 2 for 1
Green lobby.. they do their best. The US produces more greenhouse gases that the rest of the world together... they walked out of the Kyoto agreement in the first week that Bush took power. They don't listen to the UN, they won't listen to reason of any sort. Why blame the Green lobby for that. For my part, I am not particulary of the green agenda. What are you doing about it?
Well, enough of the www.what'swrongwiththeworld.com
the people on this forum want ideas talking about what they can do to live better and spend less doing it. That's what I'm trying to offer, nothing more. If what I say doesn't make sense then I have been of no use and most will ignore the post. The things I want to get across are: before thinking of heating, first look to insulation, draft management, convection, good interior design. Does the house use the sun for passive solar heating, hot water heating. Can you use the grounds thermal resources in a heat pump. Then get rid of the stuff that's killing you - products in the house with nasty stuff in them that takes your health away a bit at a time. Collect water off the roof for non palatable use, so you don't have to buy it. Then let's get to the stuff that you do have to buy and see what is the most cost efficient system, for space heating - its wood. For light and other stuff -electricity I'm not a fan of Nuclear, (Its not that clean it does have waste...I particularly don't like the MOCS plant strategically place on the west coast of UK.. so that if it goes up the Irish get annihilated first. Also Moruroa Atoll will be a little hot for a few thousand years to come.... HMMMM... CHEAP ELECTRICITY depends what you mean by 'cheap'.) Nothing to do about that though.
There's a lot more stuff but lets look at that a while..
Andrew
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Well I have had a busy couple of days and not nearly enough time to check in with the current discussion, which I might add I find interesting but sadly not very enlightening. One point has been niggling at me all day though.
Those of you whom I am sure are very knowledgeable, would you fill me in on why the blazes you are factoring the transport cost of wood for in an environmental debate. It seems that you are saying, and correct me if I've got it wrong, that the diesel burnt by a lorry to transport wood from where it was grown to your house makes the use of wood wholly unacceptable as an sustainable energy source. Well maybe we should also include in the the fuel in the sawyers chain saw, oh and don't forget the bread and cheese he had for lunch and the petrol he burnt to get to work... it goes on. It just pure nonsense.
Look, that argument is just silly. Unless you have an oil or gas field bubbling away in your back yard. I've just been out and looked in mine and sadly NOPE.. I've got nothing... not so much as a trickle or a vent of natural gas then your going to also have to factor in the transport cost of crude oil FROM SIBERIA,IRAK, NORTH SEA AND WHERE EVER ELSE FRANCE BUYS HER FUEL. Not to mention the infrastructure which was employed to bring it to your door. (sorry for shouting but I thought you weren't paying attention)
So you silly sods, don't go getting all worked up about whether using wood is good... it just is? It grows everywhere, you cut down ..it grows again..OK. Leave the timber industry alone .. people like it and its good for the Carbon Credits of France.. its friendly and it looks nice, in window and in fireplaces and growing in the forest. If you want to get all scientific then I'll match your degrees and raise you a couple.
Andrew
(You know I feel a whole lot better now. where my cup of tea?)
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Bravo Chris
I support, endorse and absolutely agree with every word.
I too am a professional saw user and like him I wear head,eye,ear,hands,leg and foot protection, every time I pick up the saw.
I've seen many guys and some girls who are 'too tough' to wear the gear and have serious injuries from saws which took the flesh. The smaller the saw the more dangerous it is. The lighter one will kick faster than a bigger one - so don't be fooled that just because you own a little DIY job that its less of a threat than a big professional saw... in reality its the opposite. And the older adn smaller/cheaper saws usually have either no chain break or one in bad repair. (nasty).
Every day now as I drive around I see folk cutting with no protection, and whilst I would not wish a chain cut on anyone, in that case, I would have no sympathy if it did.
Andrew
(nice one chris)
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Methinks : I'm sure that you knew that I would respond to this impassioned plea.
Much to talk about technologies new and old. A world of choices and more options that you can digest in one go. And definitely way to many to discuss in sufficient detail to be of any use on the forum. If you want real solutions to specific problems than send me an email or ph no. and I'm happy to go round the block with you.
In short you'll need to be specific on what sort of things are important to you... What do you expect in return for your investment? What sort of life? How far do you want to go... Complete self sufficiency.. ?occasional dependence on utilities Co.s...? or just cheaper bills?
(does look like I'm being brief or short)..(stop now)
Andrew
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Roger
Try the following link:
http://www.piscine-plus.com/faq.htm
If you need more information on this matter send me a PM
Also what department are you in?
Andrew
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Nicky
I think that I understand your situation.
What I am not sure of is whether you want to retain the open fire or whether you want a furnace type of heating appliance inserted into the cavity in the solution. Both are possible to achieve to solve your problem.
Essentially, the chimney is as I understand it, an uninterrupted passage to the outside. This can be remedied and you can still have your open fire if that is what you want. It involves the construction of a soot self inside the fire place sloping towards the room and finishing at a distance of maybe 300mm (1foot) above the mantle piece on the inside. This is designed to choke the vent of air to make it accelerate while pushing the projection of heat out into the room. As the name implies it then creates a shelf to the back wall of the chimney. The exact size of the choke is determined by a formula relating the height of chimney, size of the fire place and volume of the chimney. You must add to that a baffle which can completely close off the choke to draft when you are not using the fire. You can also use this to manage your fire but this is a fine tuning refinement which needs a little little practice to avoid filling the room with smoke. The technology is simple and any maçon can do the work. But the design needs a little more thought and skill.
Alternatively you might choose from a world of inserts to burn solid wood if you want... they all work well and there is no use me adding to the noise.
However if you don't fancy the idea of feeding the fire with whole wood you can choose the woodchip/pellet option which is completely automatic like a oil or gas burner. That might be housed anywhere and comes in space heater of boiler sizes. With 20m2 to heat you are looking for a small space heater version. If you need more on this you can PM me.
Remember that wood is a renewable resource and its cheaper than the other fuels and always will be.
Andrew
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Nicky
Can I ask, what area are you hoping to heat with the extant chimney?
I presume that presently it is a straight passage from your main room to the heavens above. If that is true are you interested in modification to the chimney to retain the original open fire or are you going for an option which will maximise your heat yield for fuel input.
If its the former then I can send you a design for construction of sloping soot shelf and chimney pot which will largely eliminate unwanted draft and help the chimney to draw.
If you want the later then I would talk about wood pellet/chip burner unit to insert.
Andrew
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I've up loaded some more pics to a gallery at the following link if anyone is interested.
http://andrew7640.fotopic.net/c406640.html
Andrew
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Chardie
Ive sent you a PM
Andrew
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Its not what I was talking about but check out this site for some interesting technical stuff.
http://www.secondnatureuk.com/press.htm
Maybe even hush up the sceptics...!
(Although I doubt it)
You can do it yourself as well.
Andrew
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10 pin bowling rink(?) is in the Minimes which is opposite the university and adjascent to the big marina in La Rochelle.
Cost €8 for 10 games.
Cool...
Andrew
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That's good guys but I was being serious.
the only thing I am not sure of is whether there is any regulations which might prevent it.
the best thing is naturally its natural. Fire proof. doesn't make you itchy to put up. And its cheap.... well if you contact anyone in the area who grows sheep and ask then what get paid for their fleeces you'll be shocked. Its pittance.
Hence if you get hold of some even the sweepings that they normally chuck away are good but you might want to wash it a bit.
Fill a cavity in the roof of about 150mm deep with wool - not compact and you'll get a very high R rating. Its no secret, Its used all over the world just like that.
Andrew
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WOOL...!
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I offer an extract from an article which I have published last year for your information:
A recurring debate throughout the western world has centred on the use of petrochemical-based lacquers as a floor surface, particularly in domestic buildings. Of greatest concern are lacquers and varnishes, which use highly volatile solvents. Articles published by the US Environmental Protection Agency, US National Toxicology Program and other similar organisations have labelled these products as ‘known carcinogens’. This includes the chemicals stabilisers in solvents for lacquers and varnishes such as 1-4 dioxane, also trichloroethylene and xylenes, benzene and toluene. The result has been the banning of different forms of lacquers for use in the EU, a movement led by Germany; unfortunately Ireland is slow to catch-up.
These toxins are known to attack the central nervous system, the respiratory system, and the heart, liver, kidneys, blood and skin (Source: Pacific Toxicology Laboratories 2003). The effects are most dangerous for the applicator but also for anyone else who inhales the fumes or intakes these substances through physical contact. In some cases the worker does not suffer the greatest effects; it is the unborn child of the lacquer worker following the onset of neuroblastoma – a quick growing cancer affecting the nerve tissues of infants. This malignant cancer stems from sperm damaged by chemical exposure, which then affects the foetus and developing child.
Many companies offering coating and floor treatments containing hardeners which as listed class 1 carcinogens. These are especially virulent for children who spend a lot time at floor level. These treatments continue to emit particulate throughout their life.
Andrew
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Elain
You've got me there... what is 'Sikkens'
Andrew
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Just curious
will you all be using lacquers, varnish, or oil on your floor boards after you've sanded them?
Andrew
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Cool stuff Chris
I also run a mobile saw mill - Lucas mill
And also dehumidify, its the only way to go as it reduces degrade and gets good colour, except if you can afford vacuum/thermal, which I'm saving up for. I've been sawing wild Irish Oak for the past 8 years. Its full of nasty tension and stuff but a delight once its dry and polishable. Hard like something.. full 5 points harder than English grown equivalent.
I've also got some rather nice Irish grown Black walnut and Elm, Pitch, not to mention all the African stuff. Love to chat some time I'll send you a PM with my email.
Cheers
Andrew
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Hi to all the pool owners out there.
I would like to ask if any of you would be interested in and automatic pool chlorinator.
This is a natty little devise which will ‘taste’ the water every 3 minutes and add chlorine or what ever is require to keep the balance perfect.
That means no more testing or sore eyes. Just swimming and enjoying.. Also the added benefit that the pool can be kept in good condition through the times you away or not using it - minimum effort. All you have to do is change the drum of chlorine when its empty.
I would appreciate your views.
Also, we have a great offer on pool security fencing which complies with the regs. If you are interested in a quote then send me a PM with a plan of the pool and we’ll go from there.
Cheers
Andrew
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OK Di
I think I understand now, apologies for my false presumption.
If the Beams are timber and they are not up to job you have two options; remove them and replace with steel universal beams then lay ply shuttering and pour a slab as before; or if you want the retain then old look you can put additional new beams in between the old to reduce the bearing load, then put down ply then foil to hold the heating coil and battens and proceed as laying a floor. Under to ply you will insulate like mad and cover with timber sarking. Both should work but the second will look better if you want to retain any authentic look.The secret to the later floor is the stiffness of the ply (9).
What are the old boards made of..? shame to have them in the fire. Even old boards have new life after a planner has met them.
Hope its helpful
Andrew
Treating new pine floors
in House Renovations
Posted
Alexis
I may have mentioned before in another thread but the Tung oil mix I use is a proprietary product and I am bound to the manufacturer not to retail it for DIY use on floors. His decision not mine.
If you search the net using Tung oil as the entry you will get a number of listings and preparations. Some from US and some European. There will also be some products which say that they contain Tung oil, (such as Danish oil). The application of this oil to get a good result is not straight forward as you have read but the results are outstanding. Naturally my remarks above relate to my own mix only as I cannot warrant other manufacturers products unless I've tried them.
Andrew