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Sharpening


George

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  • 2 weeks later...
[quote user="Gluestick"]

Unless you have an oilstone scraper and can scrape stones flat - a skilled task - since stones are relatively cheap, if not good and true, bin them and buy new.

I could scrape Babbit bearings: still have all my scrapers and the scraper sharpeners, but I wouldn't want to tackle a bearing now!

One thing I always do with stones is to to make a  box to keep them in: and thereafter always use the stone against a bench stop to prevent movement.

 

[/quote]

To flatten a oil stone off rub against another oil stone, or on a flat smooth harder surface. ;)

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[quote user="Bud"][quote user="Gluestick"]

Unless you have an oilstone scraper and can scrape stones flat - a skilled task - since stones are relatively cheap, if not good and true, bin them and buy new.

I could scrape Babbit bearings: still have all my scrapers and the scraper sharpeners, but I wouldn't want to tackle a bearing now!

One thing I always do with stones is to to make a  box to keep them in: and thereafter always use the stone against a bench stop to prevent movement.

 

[/quote]
To flatten a oil stone off rub against another oil stone, or on a flat smooth harder surface. ;)
[/quote]

Or use a diamond whet stone Bud...

I have an old second hand bench grinder with a home made wooden jig bolted onto the front and I sharpen everything from my turning gouges to my OH's gardening secatures on it (try a fingernail edge on a spindle gouge?). I have a 'starwheel' dresser for the white stone that I use mostly. For my plane blades, scew gouges and chisels I use a bench DMT diamond whet stone and for the tungsten router cutters I have a small DMT diamond whet stone that also does for my pocket knife, scalpels and gawd knows what else. The chain saw has a round file, can't remember the diameter, but it is the correct one for the chain. That is clamped in my woodwork vice and I just work round the chain. I was thinking of getting a little attachment to go in my Dremel, but the file works...

Basically the diamond whet stone never needs flattening. I know of the school that says that the water used instead of oil will rust the tools, but not if you look after your tools correctly. Sweat is water too, so you just have to keep your tools correctly and what ever works for you is good. I have a wet grinder, but it hasn't been used for at least a couple of years. Only a cheepie, but it still works, but not as well as my old wheel and diamonds. After all they are a blokes best friend [8-)]!!!

P.S. I have also made and scraped out white metal main and big end bearings, but they wouldn't be the 'a la mode' now would they??

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Blimey! I woke up to 99% discount on Tormek and was going to risk sneaking into Sarahs' purse for a few shekels, only to be let down from a great height!

JJ...what happens when you're in deep woodland, trout roasting over the fire...you're one happy lumberjack, the scent of nature and dead trees is all around, when all of a sudden you hit some dirt with your trusty saw?

Breaking news.... Herself has condoned the purchase of a new Dremel, since I toasted the last two!!!!! You know that feeling of excitement chaps when you're headed to buy a new piece of kit[:-))]. Dremels have changed since I last bought one, I'm veering toward the boy policy of spend as much as possible on it, come out with some flimsy reasons why it cost so much, take the flak (that's this weeks 'in trouble for something' situation sorted) and be a happy little woodworker. Would you chaps condone the tactic?

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[quote user="Chris Head"]

.....................What do you make?

[/quote]
Sorry Chris, didn't mean to be rude, re reading this thread and realised I missed this. 
Probably would have to say varied.  Have made several pieces of pine furniture, repair and restoration of existing pieces and many diy type projects for a few house moves.  Much of my woodwork has been limited by available space and facilities, but now in the process of recreating a small workshop in France and looking forward to a little more time.  All subject of course to fitting in with the other "normal" electrical, plumbing, building work and the odd round of golf. [;-)]

By comparison to some of you guys, just a dabbler really, but being able to create something useful, pleasant to look at that will hopefully last, is something I will always enjoy.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry, JJ having been away, missed this.

____________________

P.S. I have also made and scraped out white metal main and big end bearings, but they wouldn't be the 'a la mode' now would they??


John.

Still needed on restoration jobs, where the owner wants to keep everything original.

I only know one machine shop now near London that pours, moulds and even line bores.

 

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Hi GS, I can't even remember where the white bearings were now, but the scraper was an old file with the teeth ground off to a flat surface. Scrape a bit, try the fit, scrape a bit, etc!!

That machine shop has got to be worth knowing, even if it is to see how it should be done. You will be talking about Hepolight rings next!

P.S. Those bearings may have been on my 1946 MGTC in Singapore??? I cried when I sold that car just before I came back at the end of my posting!!

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The machine shop is in Ilford, Essex, just outside London.

Strangely enough, my scrapers and the sharpener were all ex Army (replete with the arrow!).

Chum of mine used to deal in job lots from aucions: he went through a phase of tools. It was all good stuff, Britool, Moore and Wright etc. Calipers, veniers, all sorts of chrome vanadium spanners. I still most of it.

Bet you wish you still had the MG now! Classic shape sports car.

When we were starting out, (1960??) mechanic chum of mine had an MG Midget, 1932 ish. Even had an original Junior Car Club (Brooklands) badge with both  original RAC and AA badges too. The badges would be worth far more than he paid for the whole car now!

Happy days............

 

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[quote user="Gluestick"]

Strangely enough, my scrapers and the sharpener were all ex Army (replete with the arrow!).

Bet you wish you still had the MG now! Classic shape sports car.

When we were starting out, (1960??) mechanic chum of mine had an MG Midget, 1932 ish. Even had an original Junior Car Club (Brooklands) badge with both  original RAC and AA badges too. The badges would be worth far more than he paid for the whole car now!

Happy days............

 

[/quote]

Had to have the arrow on it so you knew which end to stand [8-)].

Your mates MG could have been a J type, either 746 or 847 c.c. Lovely little things. My TC wasn't cheap either. It cost me £35 from a 'Rockape' officer at R.A.F. Tengah. Made a profit when I sold it too at £135. Makes you cry don't it?

Sorry to hijack the thread...

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Funny thing about that old MG I mentioned earlier, the cable brakes were all connected, so with the flyoff handbrake off, when the footbrake was depressed and then released, the handbake lever would move up and down in direct harmony.

Which was fine, except when the owner had a young lady passenger, she would instantly try and slap his face as the handbrake rubbed up and down her thigh.....................................

 

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  • 2 months later...

Hello, George,

This is a huge question, and you will probably get as many views as there are woodworkers.

If you wish you can use tho oilstones you already have, by all means get a sharpening aid - they work.

Be very careful grinding the primary bevel using a dry grinder.  This is done at 25 degrees, but the danger when using one of these grinders is that destroy the temper in the blade - as soon as you get a blue spot on the tool, the temper has gone, and although you may be able to still get it sharp, you will never get it to stay sharp for long.

When 'honing' the blade (traditionally done at 30 degrees), get a card or something and draw a line on it 30 dgrees, then you can set up your angle using this.  Try, if possible to only PULL the blade from the far to the near ends of the stone.  When you have a 'wire edge' across the full width of the tool (a small, very thin piece of steel just visible to the eye), you have done enough.  Take the tool from the holder, and hold it fimly with the back of the tool on the stone.  Keep rubbing until the wire edge has disappeared.

There are problems.  If your stone has seen heavy use it may not be flat (hold it up to the light with a steel rule edge on it, and see if you can see daylight - if you can, you will need to flatten it before you can use it.  Get some sand on a paving slab, dribble water on it, and rub the stone in a circular motion until its flat.

Also, when chisels are used incorrectly, they may get a 'back bevel' on them, which means the back of the chisel is not flat.  You will never get a chisel sharp if it has a back bevel.  Either grind off the offending part of the blade, or buy a new one.

Get back to me if you want anything else,

Austin (Retired woodwork teacher, and cabinel maker)

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  • 2 weeks later...
[quote user="Jonzjob"]

Hi GS, I can't even remember where the white bearings were now, but the scraper was an old file with the teeth ground off to a flat surface. Scrape a bit, try the fit, scrape a bit, etc!!

That machine shop has got to be worth knowing, even if it is to see how it should be done. You will be talking about Hepolight rings next!

P.S. Those bearings may have been on my 1946 MGTC in Singapore??? I cried when I sold that car just before I came back at the end of my posting!!

[/quote]

JJ, just re read this thread. The 47 TC definitetly had shells. Could you be mistaken ?

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I could well  be mistaken. It was a long time ago, 1967 (blimey!). If it wasn't the TC then I'm at a bit of a loss as to what the white bearings were on? It could well have been on one of my 'old man's' cars?[8-)] Easy to get confused when you get to my age and state!!

Nurse!! Wherez me pills!![:-))]

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