GUEPE Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 hi can anyone offer advice on inner wall insulation ?i have to insulate a room i am converting into a bedroom .it has block walls and i like the look of the dab and fix idea that isover produce .is it as easy as it looks?i have built an extension using plasterboard in the uk before .and the panels seem quite cheap!about 14euros per 8 by 4 ish sheet thanks for any opinions on this .merci john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Trollope Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 [quote user="GUEPE"]hi can anyone offer advice on inner wall insulation ?i have to insulate a room i am converting into a bedroom .it has block walls and i like the look of the dab and fix idea that isover produce .is it as easy as it looks?i have built an extension using plasterboard in the uk before .and the panels seem quite cheap!about 14euros per 8 by 4 ish sheet thanks for any opinions on this .merci john[/quote]Polystyrene isn't a particularly good sound insulator, but it is good thermally - if sound insulation is important to you, then I'd go for soft insulation (rockwool or fibreglass), but this can't be dot & dab'd so easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUEPE Posted January 28, 2007 Author Share Posted January 28, 2007 thanks nick. cordialement john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bastet Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 Hi JohnIf you want to create a nice warm room you'd be better off using a minimum of 100mm laine de verre. There are a variety of methods available to suit different room shapes. Take a look at all the info' on the following site, there's guides for installing most current systems in usehttp://www.bpbplaco.com/bpb_frGood luck with whatever you choose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUEPE Posted January 28, 2007 Author Share Posted January 28, 2007 thanks bastet .i will have a good look at the site you suggested cordialament john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pogo Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 The other problem I encountered with dab and fix is lining up the edges of two plasterboards,making it very difficult to tape and joint.I would build it in metal ,and insulate with the yellow isolant,made for the job.It has worked for me. pogo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUEPE Posted January 28, 2007 Author Share Posted January 28, 2007 hi pogo .i suppose that everything would have to be perfectly square for the plasterboards to meet up properly .i was thinking of plastering the whole room afterwards .but not me personally .isover also say that you can screw! these sandwhich boards into wooden beams?i have a friend in cornwall who runs a plastering buisness .i have watched him work in an average room ie 15 by 15 in the uk the time between the first coat and the finish coat is exactly the time it takes to" roll a fag,and have a cup of builders tea!what timing!and its a perfect job . ha,ha.merci pour le aider john. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 When I do mine I shall use metal stud, not sure how well dabbing would work with a polystyrene backed board if you wanted a fire rated compartment or to reduce the variation in levels you could double board and stagger the joints.I have been pondering the problems with potential rising damp and the use of membrane etc, however I am told the French do a ready mix that is waterproof?....can it be true??????Happy days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shimble Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 rising damp - think you should leave a gap between the floor and the bottom of the placo plat and get hydrofugee plasterboard which is damp resistant and they also putbreathing holes in the placo to let it all breath apparantly you can get little plastic covers for the breathing holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Thanks Shimble,Interesting..... however I will probably fasten the sole plates through 30mm cellotex and allow the board to protude in order that I can fasten the Placo the 30mm off the deck while avoiding thermal bridge.I am using plastic "egg box" type vertical dpm and a tyvek vapour barrier as well as fibre glass batts so hopefully we will be toastie.I am considering the vent Idea though as I have high skirtings they may look unsightly.Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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