Ian Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 I hope those of you who're experienced with this system can help me here.My walls are around 2.8M high. A sheet of placo is 2.5M, so I'll need one and a bit sheets to reach the ceiling. This means a horizontal support between the top and bottom rail, at the 2.5M level. What's the best way to construct this support?Do I cut lots of bits of montant, each 600mm long, and fix them somehow? Or, do I use another rail, with the bottom and one side cut out every 600mm? Or, do I take the lazy way and omit that support, leaving the placo unsupported at the top?Guidance gratefully received, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Redman Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 Either buy sheets of placo that are 2.8 or talk to your suplier there are bridgeing kits which clip in place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 As Anton said you can get larger sheets of plasterboard, you may also be interested in this how to do it video. http://tinyurl.com/292o66Some more how to do it videos here. http://www.netprof.fr/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceni Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 To overcome this prob we just fitted another pair of horizontal rails to take the extra piece of plasterboard. Johnnot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 I'd definitely go with longer plasterboard sheets(and I did when I installed some).If you use smaller sheets you will have problemsmaking a neat joint where board end meets board end. As the ends ofthe boards are not chamfered (at leant not the ones I found), the endto end joint will show as a line. It cannot be taped and so will bea higher risk of cracking, etc. Plus you have more joints to filland sand. I ended up using boards just over 3m (cannot remembe rthe exact length) and they were not problem to find - just the local builders merchant.Much easier, quicker and neater to use longersheets of plasterboard.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chancer Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 [quote user="Ian"]. What's the best way to construct this support?Do I cut lots of bits of montant, each 600mm long, and fix them somehow? No too difficult to cut and fixOr, do I use another rail, with the bottom and one side cut out every 600mm? That is how I do it but using a crimp tool.Or, do I take the lazy way and omit that support, leaving the placo unsupported at the top?That is how all the "plaquists" I have seen are happy to leave the job! When I have questioned them I get the standard "I am the proffesional, I have been trained, do not question my judgement" to be fair French customers probably havnt!Guidance gratefully received, thanks[/quote] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gastines Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 As mentioned before but if anyone in my end of Bretagne, gets stuck for the metal stud cutters/crimperetc etc,. I have tools available for LOAN.Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 22, 2007 Author Share Posted October 22, 2007 Folks, many thanks for all the ideas. I'd like to use longer sheets of placo, but it would be very tricky - the rooms are beamed, so half the sheets would have to be cut to fit round the beams. Plus, I may have to do this all by myself, and 2.5M sheets are about the limit of what I can lift and move. What I plan to do, instead, is to install complete sheets up to just below the beams, then cut and fit small pieces for the top. Yes, there'll be a join, yes, it'll be noticable if you look, but it will be 2.5M up.Hence, I reckon I'll go with the second rail approach. If I cut and bend it carefully, I'll be able to crimp it several times at each join, making it stronger.Which brings me to a supplementary question. In the video (it was very informative, thanks Derf), the guy doubled up the montands. Definitely needed for a partition wall, I agree, but this is a secondary wall in front of the original stone walls. Braced against them with offcuts here and there. Do I need to double up?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkhunter Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 You could always set up the verticals/ montants at 500 mm centres and run the sheets horizontally that way you could have two at 1.2 mtrs and a cut section at the top of 400 mm and the tapered edges run horizontally too so there is really one bad edge to take care of, at the top. The beauty of this is that you have a small piece to struggle with up a step ladder and its easier to form smaller bits then whole sheets. Just a thought !!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chancer Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 I dont double them up as I am tight but you have to be much more carefull with your pitching to allow both sheets to be screwed to the one montant.Problems can occur when working from an internal corner and forgetting to allow for the thickness of the board on the other wall.PS I brace against existing walls with expanded foam, my bodging util of choice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 I did a room using 3 and a bit m longboards (single handed. every board needed to be cut to length andthe ceiling was not level so the all had to be individually measured,cut, tweaked, re-done until they fitted properly. I did it singlehanded to you should be able to manage less than 3m boards OK (byyourself).Running the boards horizontally wouldavoid a horizontal line, but would give you a vertical line !! Iwould say if you are going to do the job, do it properly. Done badlystands out very clearly as having been done badly (previous owner dida room badly and it really looks DIYish.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 Deimos, I agree, if a job needs done, it deserves to be done properly.However, it's not one room, it's four, calling for around 120 boards excluding the top pieces, and until it's done we can't move from the caravan into the house, and winter's coming.................Pressure, pressure!I think I can probably do a reasonable job of blending in the top pieces, and it will be 2.5M up. JR, thanks for the views on doubling-up. I may try the foam approach - it sounds quick and efficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 How do you smooth the end joints. I'venever managed to avoid a line ? I'd be keen to know as I have someceilings to do where large boards will not span. so have no choicebut to have end joints.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gastines Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 For end joints I use the normal stick on bandage,not paper tape and give a thin coat of jointing cement.When dry give a wider coat of jointing cement and skim over ends with a flat sponge dipped in a slurry If required you can always go over ends with a pole sander.Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 hi OK for wall heights over 2.5 mtrs high , you can buy a small plane that takes " Stanley Knife " blades and is set at an angle, you just run it down the end of the board and it gives you a tapered edge , got mine from point p for a few €`s<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j311/daveolive/27-10-2006169.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 24, 2007 Author Share Posted October 24, 2007 Dave, looking at your photo, that's the sort of installation I'm looking at. Thanks for the tip about the plane - don't think we have a Point P nearby, so i'll look in BricoDepot and leroy Merlin.Did you use a third horizontal rail at the join between the whole sheet and the top piece? Doubled-up montants?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbykins Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 Hi, you can get 3.0M lenghts here in Britain, most D I Y shops do not keep it as a stock item but will be able to obtain it from thier suppliers, i would imagine the same would apply in France especially from the bigger D I Y stores. Bob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 [quote user="Ian"]Dave, looking at your photo, that's the sort of installation I'm looking at. Thanks for the tip about the plane - don't think we have a Point P nearby, so i'll look in BricoDepot and leroy Merlin.Did you use a third horizontal rail at the join between the whole sheet and the top piece? Doubled-up montants?Thanks[/quote] hi OK that room was done using chevrons , but have used it on the other above, I just used the full height 3 mtr montants doubled up @ 1.2 mtr centres , and crimped together ,but used 400cm centres and not 600cm ,this gives you 4 " up rights " montants to a sheet of board and not 3 , also I crimp a piece of cut scrap rail to the back of the single montants , bent like this [____] so it just touches the wall at the back of the cavity " which should be vented "and then throw a good dollop of Joker plaster onto it ,this stops any movement and gives a good solid wall . It`s going through its 3 winter and there is no cracks as yet !!! precis ==== ][ 400 cm [ 400cm] 400cm ][ hope this makes sense Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppy Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 Dave, you mention venting the cavity. We are busy putting up rails and were going to place the insulation in the rails but have found a French DIY book which shows the insulation going behind the rail straight onto the stone wall. All advice greatfully received have been chewing the pros and cons for a few weeks and no further forward. [8-)] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Redman Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 [quote user="Ian"]Dave, looking at your photo, that's the sort of installation I'm looking at. Thanks for the tip about the plane - don't think we have a Point P nearby, so i'll look in BricoDepot and leroy Merlin.Did you use a third horizontal rail at the join between the whole sheet and the top piece? Doubled-up montants?Thanks[/quote]Unless I have missed it neither Brico Depot or Leroy Merlin stock them. Local large Reseau Pro does have the planes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 25, 2007 Author Share Posted October 25, 2007 Dave, perfect sense and valuable advice.In my ignorance, I was thinking about doubling ALL montants - obviously, only the ones at board edges need done! I'll also use off-cuts like you to brace, but may use JR's foam in place of your plaster. I'll also go for the 400mm spacing I think - a bit more money, but worth it to do the job properly.Thanks to all for sharing your experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chancer Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 600mm spacing is more than adequate for BA13. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montagrier Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 As a plasterer....I am suprised to read that you cant put tape on the ends of plasterboard...... That is wrong.... Use the sticky net tape ( scrim ) cover the tape with enduit, dont try to finish the job first time... just cover the tape then scrape off almost as much as you can so that all the holes in the tape are filled...then when dry, lightly sand and then coat the whole area about 6" into each board and feathering it out....its easy. then lightly sand again and paint. One other thing....take the first board and put it from the ground up...then on the second board push it up to the top and fill the bottom. Its hard to do the second board but if you have wedges ready to kick underneath when you lift it you'll be OK..( ask the wife...or better still someone elses wife!!!! ) One more one more point. If I were a beginer I think I would prefer the joints to be at the bottom as most of it will be behind furniture. People do look up more than down.I am finished.....Monti ( in a happy mood ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted December 3, 2007 Author Share Posted December 3, 2007 [quote user="Ian"]Dave, perfect sense and valuable advice.In my ignorance, I was thinking about doubling ALL montants - obviously, only the ones at board edges need done! I'll also use off-cuts like you to brace, but may use JR's foam in place of your plaster. I'll also go for the 400mm spacing I think - a bit more money, but worth it to do the job properly.Thanks to all for sharing your experience.[/quote]The work is now finished (bar the infills round the beams) as above. For what it's worth, my experience is that:A. Don't even try it without a proper crimper and a good pair of metal shearsB. It took two of us (a fit 21 year old and me - a bit older but still fit) to handle a standard 2.4M sheet. Diemos, you must be Superman if you can handle a 3.0M board by yourself.C. Spacing the montants at 400mm centres, doubled-up at the board edges, and braced against the wall with offcuts and foam has made it very rigid. Assuming it stands the test of time, it was good advice.Thanks again, folks, for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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