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Fitting a steel bath - framing / boxing in / steadying


joidevie

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I'm currently fitting a bathroom. I've positioned a new bath in a corner and am busy tiling around the edges leaving a couple of millimetres clearance from the rim to the tiles..

I'm concerned about the bath moving and breaking / cracking the tiles and naturally the whole thing moving about! The floor is ceramic tiled (potentially hard to drill into)... I've not fitted a bath before liken this .... How do I "fix" the bath in place? The rim has no visible fixing points.. I plan to make a frame to panel (with 20mm exterior ply ) the outside..

Just a slight blank as to how "construct" a frame...

Many thanks for any help ...

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I tend to chase the wall to recieve the edge of the bath then clear the slot and offer the bath into it levelling the edge to allow tiling up from it. I gun the bath into the wall with ordinary silicone sealant  ad allow to go off prior to filling the remaining gap with plaster. I then go under the bath either end and drill one 8mm hole each end just under the bath rim to recieve a brown rawlplug into which I insert a 2 inch 12 stainless screw with a stainless repair washer on it. I then wind the screws in so that the washers  catch the edge of the bath I then silicone them to stop squeaks.

Bath frame 2x2 sawn with a length of 2x1 batten inserted upright under the lip of the bath, create a 2x2 ladder frame with the 2x1 designed to slip under the bath edge and locking in place once the frame is tilted in allow the frame to sit back by the depth of your ply / tiles etc plus 5mm drill and screw bottom rail through the grout joints between tiles (ensuring you arent drilling into plumbing or cables a good tip is to site the frame on plastic spacers ala window frames, this allows you to gun the resultant gap underneath in with silicone  and avoid it getting wet. The panel can then be fitted using mirror screws.

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Most steel baths already have a fixing batten under the lip and quite often predrilled holes in the feet so that you can at least screw fix the front legs. I also prefer to let the side lip into the plaster but make sure you have enough room for the tap handles when fixing tap end, i.e. allow also for tile thickness. Another tip is to fill the void behind bath and panel with insulation.

Regards.

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[quote user="Gastines"]

Another tip is to fill the void behind bath and panel with insulation.

[/quote]

Very nice idea !

Thanks for all... Bath's in, drilled 2 corners and screwed to wall.. However I may drill the leg that I can still get to to the ground too..

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  • 2 weeks later...
Might be a little late for your project, but i normaly put the bath in position and level it up, mark the wall at the underside of the lip and then remove the bath. Put a level line across these marks and srew two pieces of 3"x2" to the wall. empty a tube of silicone onto the timber and sit the bath on it, half fill with water and leave it to cure.Its then easy to fix into the timber at either ends with a bracket and blocks of wood to steady it if needs be. I've never had a bath move on me after that lot!!! Mind you, its a bugger to get them out again!!! 
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