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Gyn_Paul

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Posts posted by Gyn_Paul

  1. The one slightly counter-intuitive thing about satellite dishes is that the larger you go, the narrower the beam (the more tightly focused) it is reflecting to the LNB, and therefore the more critical the exact positioning becomes.

    The upside is the greater gain, the downsides are the lowered ability to compromise between the slightly different positions of the various satellites which are all nominally sitting at 28.2E, but each in their own 1km cube box.

    The other downside (which I'll bet is more applicable to your site) is the bigger the dish: the greater the suseptibility to being blown off-station by the wind.  

    The only way I can get my 1.2m dish into an acceptable position is to drag a tv and a receiver to the dish and keep scanning after each move (I have a receiver which gives a signal strength for each of the frequencies as it's tuning up the band).

    Then we get another bloody gale, and it's back to square one!

  2. [quote user="Chancer"]

    I would do it with a first and second stage regulator, keep your existing one for the fine flame regulation and have one on the bottle but for a little higher pressure, that way you wont have to worry about the hose or the fitting to the gas bottle although I guess you will still have the problem with connecting to your existing regulator.

     

    I have just looked at my space heater set up, they have used a short length of high pressure hose to connect up to my BOC Saffire propane regulator, it was intended for a propane cutting torch, using that I can adjust the heat output of my space heater to what I want, it came with a fixed regulator which like yours would not fit onto a French bottle.

     

    If you can only find a fixed regulator for the bottle and its not a high enough pressure then if its an old one you can take it apart and shim the spring to get what you want, I didnt tell you though!

    [/quote]   PM'd you

  3. Well it turns.... as long as it doesn't leak up the stem that's all I care about. But that's a consideration some distance down the line. I still have the problem of getting something gas-tight to 20 Bar afixed to the end that went in the bottle!

    It's currently adorned with a piece of turned brass (definitely NOT gas tight, even to a pressure of 1 diaphragm) which once had a male 3/4 thread on it.

    I have a sneaking feeling this is going to be Mk1 of a number of versions.

     

  4. Well that was less of a problem than I expected: at first, anyway.

    The tap came off a very elderly Butagaz bottle (circa1964) with a gert big wrench and a little gentle persuasion from a lump hammer (is it only Liverpudlians who call it 'a clod hammer'?). Turns out, under all that oxide and corrosion, the tap on a gas bottle is brass !

    Turns out also that whoever designed it had for his model the tap for hammering into a beer barrel or wine cask, because it's goes into the gas bottle on a similarly steep tapered thread, 20mm-ish. which - if you grind off the thread - fits inside a brass 22mm female to 3/4" thread fitting.

    Trying to braze the buggar is another matter, however!  Before you can get the inside hot enough to melt the brazing rod, the outer part has gone through cherry red to slump, and bang goes the thread!

    Back to the drawing board  

  5. [quote user="Pierre ZFP"]I remember at University when some Numpty (not me!) used grease on an Oxygen bottle. The resultant explosion sent the valve and bits of the bottle through the ceiling and the floor above. Astonishingly nobody was hurt!

    If you're going to play with an old gas bottle it might be worth filling it with water first lest you suddenly turn into red mist [:'(]

    [/quote]

    I intend to put a hose on it into a bucket of water & washing-up liquid . I'll heat up the bottle slowly (that way  I can flare off the bubbles of residual gas) then as it cools it will suck the water into the bottle. At least I will if it ever stops blowing a gale & raining!

  6. Well yes it would, but that would mean I couldn't see the flame to adjust it. The 'regulator' is really just a tap with a pressure gauge and a HP hose to the burner.

    It's a high pressure burner like a butch version of one of those soldering sets which attach directly to the gas bottle.

    ... and also if I did move it to the outside, I would want it to join the party after the twin bottle change-over set which terminates in a standard M20x150.

    paul

  7. Fat trap:

    You don't say how far the micro is from the house. I can't remember exactly what the distance is (someone on here is bound to know: I think it's 5 metres but not certain): if not far you don't strictly need one. If the distance from the kitchen is such that the hot water holding the fat in suspension, cools to allow it to solidify, then you definitely need one. Thus it makes sense to sight it as near as you can to where the pipe exits the building. I don't believe it makes a hap'orth of difference if it is exclusively kitchen, or other grey outlets as well - just no WC's.

    As to pipe itself, well 110 is certainly sold in builder's merchants, (as is 150) so it must be acceptable for bigger installations anyway. As for the rubber gaskets - I'm assuming it's Marley we're discussing here (SO much easier than bloody gluing every damned joint) don't know if they would be an issue.... colour?... brown dye in the plastic rather than grey? Can't imagine that would be a problem, but this is France, don't forget.

    paul

  8. [quote user="Chancer"]

    Cut up an old regulator?

     

    I wanted to adapt the regulator for my space heater to fit a French cylinder, there is  a second hand and hardware store near me and they made up an adaptor comprising of two fittings swaged onto what looks like hydraulic hose.

    [/quote]

    Cut up a regulator and I'll end up with more of the same  -  It's the gas bottle's male thready bit I need, Chancer !

    Has anyone ever tried to unscrew the tap off the top of an empty gas bottle? I've seen them used as wood burners, but they've always had the bottom cut off and a hole in the top for a flue pipe, so I suspect welding was involved !

  9. Would anyone know where I can get hold of a MALE 21.8 left-hand thread fitting? It is exactly what is on a French gas bottle.

    I am installing a small gas kiln which comes with a regulator/controller which fits directly to a gas bottle, with the usual LH-thread capture nut connector. However the kiln is indoors, and I want to feed it with Propane, so direct connection is out of the question, so I need to be able to connect the regulator to a piece of copper pipe, thus the need for this item. Brico - NG. Proper Plumber's Merchant - also NG.  - Help!

  10. Unless your microstation was bought here in France it is unlikely to carry a 'NF' symbol, and thus if it isn't Normes Francais, then getting it approved may well be your biggest headache.

    I'll bet it has CE on it though. Honestly you wouldn't think France was part of the EU sometimes!

  11. Well I've plenty of space left in the field (how many trees does one need, I wonder, for it to officially be termed 'an orchard'?), and was planning to pick up another trailer-full next time Aldi get some in (it's either that or a trip to Floralux in Belgium, but - rather like Ikea - I find it hard to get out of there for under E500) so as I'm always keen to add something which comes with a personal recommendation.... is Newton Wonder a commerically grown variety? If so, where would one get a couple?

    paul

  12. Thank you both for your timely replies. To each his own, I suppose. I prefer Bramleys as a cooking apple W-A-Y above and beyond anything else I can find in the supermarkets here. Canada Gris are almost as good, but if it's puree you are after then there's nothing to beat a Bramley in my opinion!

    The grower I bought them from said you won't get anything (even blossom) the first year, then in yr 2 (as you suggest Andy) he said, "take everything off: you won't, because nobody does, but you should ! Then in year 3 you might get a couple of kilos, but don't expect the fruit you see in Tesco's - the size of grapefruit - until the tree is at least 10 years old"! (I'll be mid-70's by then!).

    I surrounded them with suggested compatible polinators, but since the info came from an English website, I worry that the blossom times might be different here in the Limousin. I shall watch carefully to see which flowers when this year.

    Right. Off to Gamme Vert for sticky bands.

  13. Last Spring (and the previous Autumn as well, I think) I planted a collection of fruit trees: all the usual suspects - as they can along in Aldi and Lidl. Also a pair of Bramleys from a (not so local) supplier. So they've all been settled in the ground for 10-14 months and this is their 1st real Springtime.

    So my Q is, What - if anything - should I be applying to them/treating them with? And what pruning, if any,  should be done to 1st year growth?

    paul 

  14. Just looking at my back garden from the elevation of the velux in the roof, it strikes me that a sort of southwest - northeast axis is probably going to suit me for mine: after all, you're after the max heating effect in late winter/early spring,  and - for me- presenting a side to due East is no good because of the number of trees in the way. Once the sun's been up for a couple of hours it clears the obstacles and hits the part of the garden where the PT will be.

    Also, with that orientation, it then presents a corner, rather than a flat end, to the prevailing west wind roaring up the field.

    I'll let you know if the practice matches the theory!

    p

  15. You're right: 10A does sound a lot... (puts proper glasses on and reads the small print again) actually it's 6A@12v - it's supplying 2x5 metres of 5050 RGB LED's - I make that 7.2w/metre.

    It's currently sitting on the window-sill connected to the mains with nothing on the other end. so I'll see what its temperature (change, if any) is in the morning.

    p

  16. This is one for those whose grasp of electricity theory is firmer than mine...

    I'm installing a rope of LED's  under kitchen cupboards. It's 12v, fed from a brick which would be familiar to anyone who had a laptop a few years ago! turfs out 10A.

    The rope is controlled with a little remote control whose entire life seems to be devoted to hiding from me (and it's not even installed yet!).

    That's enough plot, on to the Question -

    With the brick connected to the mains, but the actual LED's switched off with the remote, is it drawing any power?

    Judging by the weight, it contains a real transformer with pri & sec windings, rather than some sort of chopper power supply.

    My first thought was to hard-wire it into the lighting circuit, but if it's going to be humming its was through a quiescent 15w (or so ??) then I'll probably think again!

    p

  17. Many of the Bricos have a selection of 'how to' books by the checkouts with the regulations for whichever subject the book covers, but I've never seen one for gas plumbing:

    I'm putting in permanent copper from the propane bottle (outside) through the new build rooms, up to an attic water heater.

    Obviously the pipework will be bracketed to the walls, but does it need to be sleeved/further protected? If so, in what (type/colour) ?

    paul

  18. Has anybody done any research into the offers from the bottled gas companies? I'm thinking of going in for the smallest (probably) above-ground citerne which is around 1000-1200 litres.

    My wife is bugging me to get her gas-fired kiln going (not unreasonable, as it was bought nearly 2 years ago!), and I had planned to run it off 2 x of the tall bottles, but - after a recent bout of sciatica - I realise I need to be a bit more realistic in terms of my future capabilities vis-a-vis lugging 90kg bottles on and off a trailer!

    I'm just starting, so I don't yet understand the various combinations of buy v rental+deposit, and cost per litre. I suppose availability might also be an issue, too.

    What have been your experiences?

  19. [quote user="Debra"]It's a Leisure cooker, but bought in France, hence being supplied with both sets of jets.  I understand the mains gas pressure in the UK and in France are the same.

    [/quote]

    On the card I saw there were about five different standards for gas and gas jets: two of them were Butane and Propane, and the other three town gas - mainly pressure differences one would assume. My understanding is that there are (for a wonder!) no regional differences in Metropolitan France, and thus if the cooker was bought over here, then the jets would work fine on any town gas installation.

    Unless someone else know different ??? .....

  20. When you say you're considering bringing your range cooker from where you live now... is this France or UK? I ask only because it is not necessarilly a given that the town gas in both countries is the same pressure. If the cooker was bought in France then the jets will undoubtedly work fine, but if UK? - not so sure. In that case I would check with the technical department of the manufacturer first. Even if it was originally for the UK market, it is entirely possible they also make a version for France, thus the jets being available.

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