Electronic mouse zapper "upgrade"

[Alan Zoff]

We have tried different methods to control mice, with varying degrees of failure. We are at present using an electronic device powered by 4 AA batteries which supposedly kills a mouse "in seconds". It does work but I have no way of checking the speed claim. And, in any event, how many seconds? 5, 50, 500?

For some reason the instructions say not to use rechargeable batteries. I've no idea why.

So I thought if I wired up a mains to 6V DC power supply, I would not have to worry about batteries and might be able to speed up the mouse execution with increased power. My problem - not being a techie person - is how to choose the rating of the power supply. I in fact have a couple spare, both rated at 6V but one only 200mA and the other 1000mA. (The device does not have a socket for a power supply but I can easily rig up a connection from the PS leads to the battery box terminals.)

Would the larger PS be powerful enough to provide as much (or more) juice than is provided by 4 new AA batteries? Or would I need something much more powerful to ensure instant mouse destruction? The only electronics I can see in the device are metal plates - which Jerry shorts when going for the bait - and an LED which flashes once when setting the device and flashes continuously when it has been triggered by a mouse. I would like to end up with something that kills the animal as quickly as possible without making the device dangerous for humans and pets.

[Théière]

Its a tricky question Alan,

Exactly how much current the mouse actually uses? the internal resistance of the battery that limits the current? Placing a salty wet sponge beside the zapper?

Here at Wiki it shows AA at roughly 2800 mA which is usually more than rechargeable can manage except the latest versions,  therefore your 1000ma power supply is the obvious choice.

but whether that is peak or rms is another matter.

[AnOther]

How long are the AA batteries lasting ?

A typical decent quality alkaline AA

will have a capacity of between 2500 and 3000 mAh so if your mouse

trap lasts say 10 hours on one set that would mean that it is drawing

between 250 and 300 mA, clearly too much for your 200mA supply but the 1000mA will definitely be OK.

A higher capacity PSU will not have any effect on the efficiency of the unit, it's the voltage which is important [geek]

[Alan Zoff]

Difficult to say how long the batteries last.It's a case of taking them out to test them occasionally. Another reason for having a power supply.  And it depends on whether or not a mouse has entered. I assume the unit itself does not draw much power when it's unoccupied.

[Dog]

Why not get a humane trap that needs no batteries. After catching the little critters take them on a long walk and realease them.

[Alan Zoff]

Used to do that until someone told us that unless you release them into someone else's household, they will most likely die of cold or starvation out in the wild.

[Northender]

If it's the same model as this then it claims the batteries will last for 50 "kills".

So that works out at roughly 56mA / kill , not an exact science , but hey!

[Alan Zoff]

Yes, exactly the same except for branding, but only cost a tenner (clearance item in B&Q, England) without batteries.

Think I will give the 1000mA Power Supply a go and see what happens.

[Simon]

[quote user="Dog"]Why not get a humane trap that needs no batteries. After catching the little critters take them on a long walk and realease them.[/quote]

Better be a very long walk as they have a 5 mile homing range.

[Iceni]

AZ - if speed of kill is your prime criterion I cannot believe that anything will be much faster than the traditional spring loaded trap. Based on my own errors when setting such a trap it seems PDQ to me.

John

[Alan Zoff]

Agreed, John, although there can be some downsides:

1. Mrs Z is not keen on the blood (nor on accidentally shoving her fingers into a loaded trap beneath the sink - a favourite haunt for our mice)

2. AZ is fed up with having his fingers snapped while setting the Nipper traps.

3. A mouse sometimes loses just half a limb and crawls off to die out of reach.

4. Lastly, our terrier who used to keep the varmints under control himself. He is slowing down in his 12th year and is no longer quite fast enough to catch many mice but he still smashes/eats his way through cupboard doors to get at the victim if he hears a trap go off. As well as the damage to cupboards, he has already chewed up a variety of Nipper and "humane" traps; he hasn't so far noticed the electronic one. (We tried putting the plastic child-proof locks on the cupboards to deter him but he still forces them open if he gets a whiff of a mouse. He may be little but he's tough and very determined.)

[Iceni]

AZ-

1 & 2 - you will both learn eventually

3 serious issue this one but maggots are people too

4. electric fencing ? though might still be a problem for 1

Our dog (caniche x bichon) set off a trap and we think it almost got his nose. He now pays them great respect but finds it difficult to ignore the smell of the chocolate bait and/or the smell of mouse.

John