Jonzjob Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 As I have said before to Chris H, one of the joys of turning wood is that when ever I am turning a piece I can see the shape, but it's not until I stop the lathe that I can see what I really have. This is a simple example of a 10 inch or so bit of English elm, really lovely wood, spinning[IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Bowlonlathe1.jpg[/IMG]Lots of knots which make it difficult because they throw out the ballance so it has to be turned at a lower speed. I did try 2000 rpm, but I could only just keep up with it as it legged it round my workshop, well almost anyway... So it has to be done at 1000 rpm. Unfortunately my lathe only has 3 speeds and if the wood is unballanced they are called 'slow', 'not too bad' and 'which way did that go'![IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/DSC06253.jpg[/IMG]So far only the outside has been done and I will see what the finished piece is, only when the blank is turned round onto a different chuck and the centre taken out. In that operation, because of the amount of knots, it could all just go bang, but that is also one of the wonders of turning. I will update this when it is done, one way or another. If the bowl is OK and the knots fly all over the place then that's just how it will finish up and, for me, may even be a nicer piece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassis Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 I was going to say, if it loses some of its knots but still holds together, it could be even better than if the knots stay in place. Fingers crossed for you and good luck. [:)] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted September 12, 2006 Author Share Posted September 12, 2006 Thanks Cas, if it lets go all together then it's going to be my legs crossed and me on me bum trying to get out of the way!!! But the odds are it will be OK. The removal blokes who unloaded 3 LARGE boxes, at our rented house when we moved over, asked what was making them so heavy. When I told them they were full of bits of wood they thought I was joking. They couldn't work out why I bought them over, but then again it would only have been fire wood for them. They were English! Ther are some lovely blocks in there. I still have to find somewhere here before I run out, but as Chris said it will make for good French practice!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerdesal Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 John,That looks a bit of a hairy piece of turning, flak vest at the slope job, must keep your reactions tuned up [Www]Gorgeous wood tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 As promised, here is the finished article. Not sure why Photobucket (considered doing a spoonerism on that, but as I like being on the forum I thought better of it?) deleted the first of the photos, but? I will try with the other 2. [IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Elmbowl.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Babiesrattles.jpg[/IMG]The second has 3 Elezabethan style babies rattles that I made today. It's a good way of using up small bits of wood, it's easy to do and so far the ones I've made are as far away as Singapore and the USA. The babies love them.The knots didn't fly out, but there are several holes in the side of the bowl and I didn't manage to get to spinning it at 2000 rpm until I was polishing it. It was still too far out of ballance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassis Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 That's really turned out well, John. Pun intended but sentiment also meant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Smith Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Lovely stuff.My grandad Oskar was a sailor, and he used to carve chains, and balls in tubes. I've never seen them, they were all lost in the blitz, apparently. So, respec'! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 Thank you both. I love doing it and as I have said, you don't really know what you have got till you stop the lathe. Not always a nice surprise believe me, but mostly so!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassis Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 John, was it you had the pierced balls inside other balls? Or has my memory cell gone on the blink again? No rude meaning intended! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 No not me. I have had several operations, but thankfully not that one [+o(]. Doing the Chinese balls is something I haven't considered,,, yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerdesal Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 John,You are obviously a master turner, can I pick your brains?How do you chuck the base for doing the internal?I am the absolute worlds worst cutting tool sharpener, I realise its just practice, practice, practice but I would like to have some gouges etc left, any good tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Great looking work John, it's obvious you're very very good. I think you love the timber as much as you love the work? I can feel a goblet order coming on!Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 Thanks again both of you. Yes I do love both the wood and working it. But I have a boat load to learn before I would even consider to call myself good, keen yes, good, not yet. But thank you. Not sure that I can accept orders via the forum. The Stazie may be watching??????[:-))]Steve, the blank is mounted on a screw chuck, I have one that is good and strong and needs a 6 1/2 mm hole for the screw. I then turn the under side with a small countersunk hole to accomodate the 4 jaw scroll chuck I have. The underside of the bowl is shaped, finished and polished before it comes off the screw chuck. It's then a case of mounting the countersunk hole on the scroll chuck and holowing the bowl. I start with a 3/8 inch spindle gouge and then go to a 3/8 inch bowl gouge and with that bowl I had to use a 2 inch disk on a flex drive from my old drill (which is why I am looking for AN OLD FAN TO GET THE MOTOR FROM because the drill upsets my hangover. Sorry Chris??) to power sand it to a good finish. On a more balanced peice the gouge and some sanding would have left the finish I was looking for. I have a 1/2 inch bowl gouge for bigger bowls, but it don't get much use at the moment. I have to admit that I used my round head scraper on this one and that was the first time for a long time because I don'y really like it.When I turn goblets I use the same method for turning the base, but I only finish the underside with the hole for the scroll chuck. It is then put on the scroll chuck and the inside of the goblet is turned because it is easier to turn the hole and then follow the hole than it is tho turn the outside and then follow that. Then when the outside is turned you work from the top so that you have the maximum bulk of the wood to kep everything stable. Always work toward the base from the top and you can then bring the tailstock in, with a live end (one that spins) and rig up a support to hold the cup while you turn the stem. Always the hairy bit! Don't forget to polish or finish the inside of the cup before you do the stem... I sometimes use Rustins Plastic Coat on the inside if the goblet is going to be used for drinking from. It is OK for occasional use, but unless the whole thing is done that way I wouldn't like to say it is good for the goblet. I have a lovely goblet that holds nearly a pint of wine, or anything else for that matter.This one was a goodie. It was my eldest grandson's Christening pot before it was lost in a fire that gutted their flat!!! The inside is cylindrical. It's a 2/3 copy of a Selangore pewter pot I have from Singapore. Maple and mahagony, it was lovely, but a real swine to turn. Sorry about the quality of the photo.[IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Jacobchristeningpot211.jpg[/IMG] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 Steve, as far as sharpening is concerned. I use a white stone on my very second hand grinder (oh gawd, I feel more agro from that bloke wiv the chainsaw [:D][:P]). It cuts cooler and finer than an ordinary gery jobbie. I have also made a flat plate guide that I rest the gouge on the sharpen it. I'll see if I can remember to get a photo of it tomorrow. It's dead simple and youget the same angle every time. I also had a look at a couple of videos on the subject. They helped a lot and that's where I got the gen on the guide. You can buy guides, but they are dead easy to make. Most of my gouges are sharpened to the same angle. I can't remember what it is off hand. About 30 degrees, I think?Chris, have you seen the sharpening kit you can get to go in your Dremel. If not have a look at www.axminster.co.uk and have a look at the sharpening pages.Boing!!! Time for bed said Zebedee. Nite knight.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerdesal Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 John,Many thanks for the replies, I will have to find a screw chuck, I've been limited to a 50mm faceplate that I had made in the workshop. My lathe is a cheap Chinese one that I bought to learn on, never having done any turning before. I will send some photis when the digi camera gets back from LBF this week.My grinder is'nt 2nd hand, its another chinese job (Colt) has a made in Germany sticker but I think thats a little village outside Peking !!!!. I managed to locate a 'green' stone, ex UK which is quite fine. Maybe I should look for a new white stone.Looking forward to seeing the guide photo. Does it also work for skews. Somewhere I have a book with the angles, must search for it.Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted September 25, 2006 Author Share Posted September 25, 2006 Hi Steve, I've just been looking in one of my books. Not much help unfortunately, because it syas the ultimate angle for the grinding og gouges, etc depends on you and what you are turning. Recomendations are --- roughing out gouges = 45 deg, spindle gouges = 35 deg, chisels and parting tools = 25 deg, bowl gouges = 55 deg and scrapers = 80 deg. That goes out of the window with me because most of my tools are the same. That is except for the skew chisels and they are probably ground to 25 deg ish. They are also the only ones that are finished on my diamond whet stone and then honed on a leather pad. They are razor sharp and cut well.As for the guide. Here is a photo of it and as I said very simple.[IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/DSC06300.jpg[/IMG]You should be able to find a white stone at a large DIY shed. I've just had a look at the Axminster Power Tools site and the green wheel is suitable for TCT tools so I would think it would give a good finish on HSS gouges too. I asume that you have HSS tools? There is n reason that your lathe should not give good results as long as the headstock and tailstock bearings are good. My 1st proper lathe cost me about £200 and was good until I wanetd to go a bit larger and have a bit more stability. It can be tiring chasing round your workshop after a mobile lathe. Now I could do with something a bit heavier and more stable again, but not at the price I would have to pay.This is something else that I've made a few sets of now. The dark is American black walnut and the white is holly. The walnut smells like chocolate when turned and the holly turns just like cream. They are lovely to make and the most difficult task is trying to get the pawns the same, no chance of that. The knights were the easiest. The only thing I failed at was the board beacuse as soon as I glued the walnut and holly tiles on the base board it went the shape of a concave plate. It took 2 years to come flat again, just a tad too long and I tried several ways of doing it!![IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Chessset6.jpg[/IMG]I didn't make the board in the photo, it's a cheapie plastic covered one... But it's flat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerdesal Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 As promised, pic of lathe etc ( I hope )The lathe was originally mounted on a sheet steel flat base which I removed and mounted it on the bench. The bench was made to be very substantial and there is now very little vibration, it purrs nicely.Its not particularly good quality ( read that as c**p quality), particularly the tailstock which needs to be much more rigid. The tool set is HSS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted October 28, 2006 Author Share Posted October 28, 2006 Hi Steve, that looks OK, but I see what you mean about the tailstock. What is the tailstock made of. If it's steel it should be possible to weld a cross peice in the gap. That should help the stability along the length of the lathe?The HSS tools are a good thing to have. They keep a good edge. It's nice to have a set, because they usually have most of the things that you need. How many of the peices do you use regularly? I will bet that its only about 4 of them... That's about all I use.I'm not sure what happened to some of the photos in this post? You will have to post some of the things that you have made... I look forward to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 I'm horrified at how clean that workshop is, that's unnatural for a boy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerdesal Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 I cleaned up deliberately before taking the photo, you really dont want to see it in its 'natural' state. Although I do sweep up after every session, to avoid treading sawdust into the house!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerdesal Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 JJ,I have always intended to 'plate' each side of the tailstock verticals but have never got round to taking it into work to have it welded, knowing our mech workshop they would probably ruin it anyway. Maybe when I get a mig I will get round to it ( MIG - fat chance at the moment!!!)I will post some pics when I get them downloaded to photobucket - how do you use the easy way to post them, I have to drag and drop. There was a simple tip on a post recently but I cant remember where it was.The current project is making the kitchen cupboard doors and drawer fronts to fit to the existing (B&Q) carcasses. The desired doors etc were going to cost much more than the rest of the kitchen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted October 28, 2006 Author Share Posted October 28, 2006 Posting photos.I USED to put the photo into photobucket. Left click on the bottom line of gobbldigook, that highlighted the line, right click the highlighted line, select copy from the drop down menu, go back to where you want to post it in your thread and paste it there. I say USED to, because now I'm on IE7 I cant do it any more. If you want to see what happens just look at where the spinning bowl "SHOULD BE" at the beginning of this thread!!!COME ON ARCHANT. YOU WERE QUICK ENOUGH TO ASK FOR MY SUBSCRIPTION TO FRENCH PROPERTY NEWS!!!!!!!! HOWS ABOUT A BIT OF CUSTOMER SERVICE HERE????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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