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Box Joints


Dick Smith

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[quote user="Chris Head"]

Sharpening is one of the real basic musts. I'm not at all an advocate of sharpening by hand, apart from chainsaws. [/quote]

Dremel do  nice chainsaw sharpening kit and it gets the angle correct all the time..[:D]

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hi

  ok   first the tormek wet system  .................I want one ...should have got one when I was in the uk... next best is diamond stones even the cheapy ones work ...

second Dick post it.... it looks good .

third ... router bits ... open for attack on this .. I found that you will never get TCT bits as sharp as HSS ones , so for dovetails etc I use HSS . for hard woods use TCT ones .keeping them sharp is a bit of a pain but worth in when you get no breakout .

I use as a stock cutter a 1/2" freud kitchen fitters cutter ,I cut all my dado`s ,mitres etc with this and base all my jigs on it.

buying expensive ones sometimes is false economy .there was where i used to live in the uk a B&Q warehouse depot you could buy a card of  20ish blackanddecker  piranha bits for less than a 10er , I paid £14 for one ..sick as a pig when I seen them , cheap enough to throw away when blunt .

and fourth sorry Chris .... but what the hell are you doing with a dovetailing jig ????? you so much the basic woodsman !!

when someone asks me to do or make something  for them and i fetch out the leigh d4 dogs b`s jig they expect it to be perfect ..

when I take an old scrap piece of wood of the wall dust it down and do the same thing ....it gob smacks em .any one can buy a jig to do anything ..if a vibrator could cut the lawn men would become redundant !!

dave

 

 

 

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..if a vibrator could cut the lawn men would become redundant !!

[:D][:D]

OK, Dave, if you think I should - this is my latest project for the kitchen in France, intentionally rustic, based on an antique original bought by my son.

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/dick_at_aulton/Cupboard5.jpg[/IMG]

I made it to keep all my coffee-making stuff. As you can see, it pretty quickly attracted some honey pots...

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[quote user="TWINKLE"]What a pleasure to see you two getting on so well - I feel a warm glow inside me when that happens![/quote]

I'm not superstitious, but 'Touch Wood'[:)]

That's a beautiful little cabinet Dick. Even I would have it, and I'm so fussy my house is empty.

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Thanks for all the encouragement, people, much appreciated.

Chris - What I'd do next:

  • Sort out the finish (it's poor, close-up) - limited because I needed to varnish it, and I used water-based, which didn't do what I expected it to.
  • Make better joints on the doors. I did the whole door in about an hour, and it shows. You can't see the bit where I pulled back the router and kicked it! My first ever door.

  • Put adjustable shelves in the cupboard using holes and shelf support plugs.

But - it was a lot of fun and satisfaction, it looks OK in place. I'm now working on a similar shelf unit for - honey pots!

Will - I've certainly had enough of the education system, and I'm sure it's had enough of me!

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Just some thoughts/observations Dick, in no way criticism.

It looks good, is in proportion and the finishing seems to be in context with with the 'spirit' of the piece. The anomolies on the door really add to the character.

What's drawing my eye is the harshness of the edges, had you deliberately discounted some sort of profiling or softening of the edges? The gaps in the rear panelling lead the eye too. Could the shelf be recessed into the sides of the unit instead of using battens? How is the door frame joined? Any mileage in putting some pegs in? Are the hinges recessed? Have you signed it?

 

 

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Ha! Not signed! That would look more like an admission!

I like 'anomalies' for the faults on the door! In fact I started to rout the recess at the back before the rails and stiles had dried properly... the door is made with biscuits, the panel is two pieces of thin timber cut to size and pinned in place. As I said, my first door, perhaps it would have been better to think of it as practice. I like the idea of pegging through the joints, I just didn't think of it at the time. I also thought (later) of plugging screw holes and leaving the plugs slightly proud, as I like that look.

The rest was mostly conscious choice. I started out using an existing cabinet as a model, which had 'unfinished' edges. I don't like rounded edges unless they are a part of the design (I do like deep shelves with a 1/4" roundover + quirk on the top edge only, just the sharpness of the bottom edge knoocked off, I've done that in our dining room), but went for the 'rustic' look of squared edges. Similarly, the small shelf supports were designed to look like the original.

The gaps in the rear panelling are best described as an error, or possibly a very clever arrangement allowing room for movement. I would use t&g if I did it again.

The hinges are not supposed to be recessed, they are the 'invisible' fitting type, and need only 1/8" gap, which is easy on small doors. They wouldn't handle anything much bigger, though. It was a struggle to find small enough screws to fit them without them binding. I was very pleased to find them (anyone within 10 miles of Carshalton, visit Melvyn Clarke, they are brilliant) as they solved a lot of problems for a first-time project.

In the near future I am going to make a spice cupboard for England. This will be a basic box (hence the need for a box joint jig) with a t&g back and maybe a face frame, adjustable shelves and a single door. Think medicine cabinet without a mirror. It will be a slightly distressed paint finish to match the kitchen colour scheme. I'm looking forward to it, but the cost of wood in the UK distresses me - the timber for this cabinet cost £35.

I think that in doing this I have found a style I am happy with, and which is within my capabilities at the moment. In a while I will be building up a TV stand for England, and there won't be any room for excuses with that!

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Sign everything Dick! It might be worth a fortune one day.

Wow, 35 sterling for timber for a wee box! You'd die for my offcut and reject pile!

Are you really sure of your joint selection for the spice cupboard Dick? Take the door of the cabinet you've just made for example. They might  make great, and unobtrusive side panels for a small spice cupboard, with a face frame in the same style and door in the same fashion the whole thing, albeit in small scale could flow beautifully.

Joints can enhance any project, but they can equally ruin work too.

 

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[quote user="Dick Smith"]Thanks, John.

No chimps I'm afraid.

I want chimps!

I did have a huge amount of unsolicited mail this weekend (200+), so they might have got caught up in that.
[/quote]

You want chimps then you shal have chimps, but you supply your own fish and bees......

[IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Monkeygoalie.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Monkeydentist.jpg[/IMG]

[6][6][8-)]???

Edit : Sorry for the change in tack for a moment, but it's something I have been trying to get to Dick.

Back on subject. The paneled sides sound good and if you routed a grove in the inside of the rear edge you could slot the back into it. The top and bottom could be mitred and biscuited into place (across the mitre) and the door fitted into the recess possibly with your special hinges.

Stains can be applied by stages and the colour built up in the same way as varnishes. Just don't start off with Dark Jacobian! A lighter stain will darken with application. Then you can apply your varnish, but as I said before if you want a silk finish have a look at the celulose sanding sealer. It stinks, BUT it gives a wonderful finish even with just a coat of furniture polish on it!! 'onest! If you use it over a stain it will take some of the stain off and into the brush. On it's own it will not darken the wood very much at all. It does the same job as I was taught at school when you sand a piece, wet it to raise the grain, sand it again, etc. but this does it in one move and is far better....

When you are doing smallish projects Dick, have you tried going round to your local good joiners and asking him if he has any offcuts. This is where I got most of my wood from in the U.K. You would be surprised what you can get, especially if you get to know the guy!!! You won't have to pay 35 of anything... I am plucking up the courage to get down to the 'ebinist' in the village and chat him up with the same idea. All I need is the guts and a little bit more of the woodworking chat!! I'll get there...[B][B]

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[quote user="Chris Head"]Can you sketch & scan the project? I don't understand.[/quote]

It's an adapted form of this:

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?101

Slimmed down to take nothing more than a couple of dozen spice bottles. Probably make to door to lie flush with the sides.

Mr Zjob - love the chimps - which forum members did you say they remind you of?

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