Ian Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 We recently acquired an old wooden kitchen table. The top has been waxed and looks lovely, but shows every heat and water mark. Not ideal in a kitchen table, so I'm planning to re-finish the top. It's a workaday piece of furniture, not an antique, so any process can be considered.Ideally, what I want to do is seal the surface first with something (matt Ronseal, sanding sealer, whatever), then wax/oil it for a nice finish. But, I don't think Ronseal would take on a waxed surface. Suppose I rubbed it down first with steel wool and turps, then wiped with a clean rag? Would that be enough, or are we talking a session with Nitromors?Alternatively, how about a heavy duty hard wax (?) flooring product? Osmo maybe, or Bona? OK for wear and tear on a kitchen table, I guess, but water- and heat-proof?Any suggestions will be gratefully received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Depends on the colour finish you're after. I used teak oil on our coffee table with great success. You could perhaps start by reading these threads...http://www.completefrance.com/cs/forums/1096711/ShowPost.aspxhttp://www.completefrance.com/cs/forums/767143/ShowPost.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 If you are going to put anything other than wax back on the surface you will have to get all of the wax off. The way that I would do it is with a cabinet scraper. It might sound a bit daunting, but it should be easy enough to do. Just make sure that the scraper is 'sharp' and it will act like a very fine plane. Don't use abrasive paper because it will just clog up very quickly.Sorry if I am teaching you how to suck eggs here, but if you don't know about scrapers have a look at this site http://www.woodzone.com/articles/scrapers/index.htm . I treated myself to one of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=22455&name=cabinet+scraper&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0 , it saves my hands and when you have arthritis in them it really helps!! It makes it as easy as using a spoke shave, another wonderful tool, but not for what you want to do.As for the finish. If it's going to get a lot of wear then I would use about 4 coats of Danish oil. As I have said before, it's easy to use, food safe ans easy to repair. Of course you could always use polyeurathane (?) varnish [6]. It would make it very hard wearing no matter what anyone says?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted February 6, 2008 Author Share Posted February 6, 2008 Thanks, Jonzjob. You've confirmed what I feared, that the existing wax would pose a problem.I've seen the finish that cabinet scrapers can give, but I don't think they're an option in this case - the existing wood surface just isn't good enough for them, and as it's only a kitchen table, it's not worth putting a lot of effort into getting a fine finish.What I'll probably do is prepare the surface with steel wool and turps, but then I have to make a decision - try and seal the new surface first with something (but will it take?) or go straight to waxing/oiling (but will water continue to mark it?). I think the first option is doomed to failure, so unless anybody knows differently, I think I'll go straight to rubbing in Danish oil.And afterwards, the table.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEO Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 You ought to strip the existing finish with a paint stripper, layed on the surface for 5/15 minutes, then removed using course grade steel wool followed by another smattering of paint remover ,rubbed off almost straight away with a very fine grade steel wool .First phase now complete!2nd stage you have many choices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 It may well be worth trying a small corner of the table with a scraper. You might just be surprised at how easy it can be? Also in your case all you want to do is to remove the wax and not start on the wooden surface. If the wax is old it could be quite hard and the danish oil may not penitrate it. An option is to ask Liberon UK as to the best way to prepare the table. They are very helpful and you can e-mail them wth your question at http://www.liberon.co.uk/contact-us,438.html or phone them on +441993 704611.If you go the route of the paint stripper then make VERY sure that you have a very good pair of rubber gloves on! Leo, I have never tried your method, but i would think that the wood could well collect the stripper in any imperfections in the grain and be a real swine to get out afterwards. also you would need to give the top a really good wash to get rid of any remaining stripper or it will play havoc with anything you put on it afterwards? Also, isn't it a rather large hammer to crack wax? I could well be wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEO Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 quote by the original poster;"but shows every heat and water mark"If you don't remove this,then you will never be totally satisfied with the table!It is actually easier and quicker, to strip and start from scratch ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerdesal Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Strip it with chemical stripper, wash very very well, sand back to clean finish, apply danish oil. Its food friendly, nothing else is imho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Slightly different tack..If you are trying to get rid of water marks on a wax surface the best way to do it is to mix some cigarette ash (a rare comodity these daze peut etra?) with some linseed oil and rub it into the water mark with a soft cloth. The water mark will vanish just like magic [8-|][8-|]!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 My expert young antique restorer friend, removes water marks in a very clever way. He tells me that this is standard practice in the real antique trade.Water marks are retained moisture, under the finish.He damps the water mark with polishing spirit (meths), sets light to it, allows it to burn for a few seconds and then extingushes the flame and quickly polishes the surface back.Et voila !Water mark vanished!A few years ago we bought a new reproduction dining table: a guest managed, somehow to watermark our pride and joy a few weeks aftewr we took delivery.Had the young expert around and within minutes, the water mark was gone!So the trick also works on modern finishes as well!Try it firstly on spare bits of polished wood, to work out just how long to allow the flame to burn: and how little meths to use.As Paul Daniels might have said, "And that's magic!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Bon idea!! But don't forget to keep the phone handy?18 for the sapeur pompier me thinks [:D][blink][kiss] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 A few years ago, Jonz, I was tasked with finding weekly speakers for my rotary club.I persauded young Tim (The restorer) to provide a short talk on restoration of antiques and suggested that he carry out a demonstration of removing water marks using this method.There were lots of oohs and ahhs as he set fire to the piece of finished wood and the group were really impressed.Got Tim lots of refinishing and repair work too.You only actually need a light "Kiss" of spirit: not a conflagration![:'(] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I had to look that one up. Consegation indeed![:D]That fag ash & oil really does work and no fires in sight..[B] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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