my new dgo

[SaligoBay]

He arrived cold and thin and scared just before Christmas, so I thought of Good King Wenceslas and brought him hither to partake of food, wine, pine logs, and slippers.

Now what do I do?   Got him 90% house-trained, so pipikaka indoors is rare.  He's had his first injection and a worm tablet.   Second injection in a couple of weeks.

Training - I've taught him to sit, but what next?   Is it Stay next, or is it Come Here next?    He seems very trainable, I'm just not sure how to go about it.   A French neighbour said to wallop him with a rolled-up newspaper, but I thought that wasn't recommended nowadays?   Not that I want to do it anyway!

The sites I've seen suggest stay-come training with two people, but there's only me, and I haven't quite perfected the art of being in two places at once.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Merci!  [:)]

 

[Dick Smith]

You need to get someone to check out his dyslexia, as well.

[Chrissie]

Great to hear at least one dog has started 2006 in a new and loving home.  Am sure you will be bombarded with advice, but common sense usually works OK.  Agree that hitting any dog, let alone a nervous one, with a newspaper is not a good idea.  Praise all good behaviour and ignore or mildly disapprove of bad behaviour and he'll soon be the ideal pooch.  Dog training classes with several dogs at a time are really good for training and socialising at same time. 

Good luck to you both

Chrissie (81)

[Patf]

Have you tried the Scallywags website? There's a forum which is

helpful.  Have you any idea how old he/she is? If just a puppy it

takes a while before they take much notice, or so we found. 

Sounds as if you've achieved a lot in a short time. Pat.

[YCCMB]

[quote user="Dicksmith"]You need to get someone to check out his dyslexia, as well.[/quote]

 

Isn't this the joke about the dyslexic athiest??

[berger]

hi,

the dog sounds up for training, so go for it as often as you can, at least once a day in the first instance for about 20 mins to half an hour. the " come" is extremely important, as you need to be able to retrieve your dog if out walking off lead, in all situations.start with a long lead attached , dog sitting beside you, command " stay", take a few steps in front , turn, and after a few seconds call the dog enthusiastically and reward instantly with small dog treat etc.

never hit a dog, it will not learn to do anything but fear you in those situations, voice control is all thats needed.

as for the rest, sit, stay , come and down are the basics that should be mastered as walking " to heel" on lead.

happy to give detailed if you wish, just pm me.

 

good luck

monty

[Renaud]

We trained our last dog to always stop and sit before being given the OK to cross a road, off the lead. Basic survival training for SW London, less important maybe for rural France.

Our current dog has to stay on the lead at all times, by all roads, as he has not the slightest inclination to learn this. He is a sight hound (he says) therefore cats, squirrels*, foxes and plastic carrier bags that behave like them must be chased and threatened. Destined for a short life but sweet.

*Several times, when off the lead, he has caught-up with squirrels but then lost interest - he lives for the chase not the kill.

[Deimos]

Loads of advice but, if he’s a pup (e.g. 2 months or so)

then socialisation is very very very important.  Pups can come to terms with new experiences well but after 14

weeks then tend to be less able to accept new things easily.  Thus, up to age 14 weeks (though do carry on

after that) mix him with as many other (well behaved and friendly) dogs as

possible.  Subject him to as many new experiences

as possible, meeting loads of different people in loads of different

places.  If he seems scared then do not comfort

him but ignore his scared reaction (i.e. behave as though nothing is wrong).  If you comfort him when he reacts to

something by being scared or cowering away then you will re-enforce such

reactions (i.e. you will tell him he is correct to be scared and he will react

the same next time, etc.)

Never hit or use physical aggression – it is not effective

and does not achieve anything (other than teach your pup what it’s owner is

like).

Recall can be done with one person no great problem.  Thing is to find something the pup really

likes (e.g. cheese, salami, ball, etc.) and to reward with that only when

training.  Start over short distances

(few feet) where pup can e.g. smell salami and will come whatever you say or

do.  Then greater distances and keep

re-training.  Once pup comes when

called, only give reward occasionally.

I was always told that when training, never give a command

if you think the dog might not obey as this will just teach him that the

command can be ignored.  I.e. only call “come”

when you have the pup’s attention.  In

the early days, calling “come” when pup is in the middle of eating something

delicious found somewhere will probably have no effect.

Scallyways forum (http://www.scallywagsdogs.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi)

is very helpful and there is also useful info on the main site as well (e.g.

training guides http://www.scallywagsdogs.com/te.html).

Ian

[Christine Animal]

I could never quite understand how French dogs were supposed to understand what they were meant to do, you often hear "Allez, viens!".  But they do seem to get the message...

Good for you SB and the best of luck with him.  What variety is he?  You could always train him to ride on the red Yamaha.

 

[SaligoBay]

I'm not sure what make he is!   If I knew how to do photos you could see him and decide for yourself.  A batard, as the French say.    Terrier, dachshund, quite a selection of shortass doggie breeds.  He is cuteness itself, and a bit smart.   The important thing is that he makes us smile.  [:'(]

Thank you for the advice, everyone.  I shall take it all on board and start TOMORROW!   I promise! 

Dick, he's not at all dyslexic.  But he can make a fine mess of a ball of wool when I'm trying to kint.