Jackie Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 A chap in Bricomarche recommended that I use a resine accrochage by SB Mercier, produced by Ato Findley, one of the Bostick group, on a concrete floor that I wish to tile. The last time I did this sort of job I used another brand which you painted on and let dry first and then put down the tile adhesive and tiles. This SB Mercier product has instuctions which indicate mixing it with the water for some jobs and painting it on and placing other material on top before it dries for other jobs. No specific instructions for what I want to do however.A web search has proved unproductive so I wonder if anyone has had experience of using this stuff. Do you paint it on and let it dry or do you mix it with the tile adhesive or do you paint it on and slap the tile adhesive on top when still liquid? ............Help!...........John not Jackie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
La Guerriere Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 I think it's one of those all-purpose PVA sort of things: you can slop it on, dilute it and slop it on, mix it with mortar as a plasticiser, and slop it on. It's probably not essential for anything but it does help things stick together. Jim La Guerriere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Hoare<br>All the best<br>Ian<br>La Souvigne Corrèze<br>http:www.souvigne.com Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 Hi,I agree with wot 'e said loike. ;-))Seriously. I think Jim is dead right. PVA can be used in many ways. When I used it with concrete, I diluted it about 2 to 1 (whatever the tin said) and painted it on the surface. While it was drying, I mixed some more with the water (much more dilute - about 25 to 1 if I remember correctly) I was intending to use for the concrete, and them mixed my concrete with that. Same when rendering, same sort of process when repairing steps. Also quite useful for stabilising torchis in the cellar! I'm slightly more positive about its usefulness than Jim, as there are some things I've done using it that I don't think I could have done in any other way. Covering glazed earthware sinks with a peat/sand mixture to look like stone for little alpine beds springs to mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
La Guerriere Posted March 20, 2005 Share Posted March 20, 2005 Thanks Ian,Slightly off beam here, but daughter is buying a house which has a precast concrete sectional garage that has seen better days, and there are some crumbly bits where the rebar is showing through. Do you think that the magic goo would help to make repairs stick i.e. coat with dilute PVA then use some in the repair mix .. ?Jim La Guerriere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mysfloss Posted March 20, 2005 Share Posted March 20, 2005 For your garage use an anti rust product (like sika primaire204)on the steel showing,then if the concrete missing is less then 6mm sikatop121,if over 6mm deep then sika122F.There are other manufacturers who do these types of kits,I had the sika catalogue to hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Hoare<br>All the best<br>Ian<br>La Souvigne Corrèze<br>http:www.souvigne.com Posted March 20, 2005 Share Posted March 20, 2005 Hi JimYou saidSlightly off beam here, but daughter is buying a house which has a precast concrete sectional garage that has seen better days, and there are some crumbly bits where the rebar is showing through. Do you think that the magic goo would help to make repairs stick i.e. coat with dilute PVA then use some in the repair mixThe worry to me would be over the steel rusting and blowing off whatever you put over. So, as someone said earlier ;-)) "Oi agree wiv wot 'e said loike."Don't know the Sika products, but once you've effectively rust proofed the bars, then some PVA might well allow the cement to stick again, though of course it won't be in any sense load bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mysfloss Posted March 20, 2005 Share Posted March 20, 2005 with the sika 122F and121 there is no need for pva as the product is mixed with a resin to make the "morter"(no water involved)it WILL stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackie Posted March 20, 2005 Author Share Posted March 20, 2005 Well thanks for your individual inputs folks. It looks like PVA and dries like PVA but the smell is not like PVA. Despite all that has been said I am still not sure if it would be best to paint the floor with it neat and let it dry or to mix it in with the water when I mix up the tile glue, any further thoughts? The last time I did this the resin stuff I used was more like a green paint which dried green and sadly I did not think to keep a note of what it was or keep the container. Bricomarche no longer sell it what ever it was, but it did a good job as far as I can tell....................John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.