tony4 Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Basically i`m wanting to know how to solder/braze zinc gutters... I did a quick search but couldn`t find any info.... I installed the gutters last summer and used the jointing pieces that you seal with mastic but wasn`t too impressed with them and so am planning to do it properly next month when i`m out.What tools do i need and how difficult is it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilko Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 We soldered 2 5m zinc gutters together, both back and front. Works perfectly.Rgds Wilko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony4 Posted March 15, 2005 Author Share Posted March 15, 2005 thanks for the reply, what gas, solder did you use for the soldering??? Will the propane gas i use for soldering copper fittings here in the uk be ok??I`ve asked my french neighbour about what to use for doing it but he said it was a bit of a specialised job and wasn`t sure, but i can`t see it being that difficult... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre ZFP Posted March 21, 2005 Share Posted March 21, 2005 Can I put in a 'Health & Safety' note here please? I don't want to scare you off but zinc is a heavy metal which when heated can be absorbed by the body and is never released. Can't remember the long term effects but they are not good (similar to lead if I remember anything at all) The correct breathing gear is v. expensive, the usual litttle thin that covers your nose/mouth is no use at all. You have to take a view - if in the open and not much then the risk is minimal but I just wanted to make you aware of the risk if you did not already know.Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Trollope Posted March 21, 2005 Share Posted March 21, 2005 Pierre is, of course, quite right, but if you do it in the open, and stay upwind you will be OK.Use an ordinary propane torch and tin/lead plumbers solder (which is still available!) and a good quality flux. Clean the surfaces well, flux and fit the joints, heat the joint sufficiently so that the solder melts WITHOUT the flame applied. Do not melt the solder directly in the flame, as the solder will not "flow" into the joint.HTH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter72 Posted March 21, 2005 Share Posted March 21, 2005 The following is how I learned to solder zinc by trial and error and watching artisans at work, (with a little gentle questioning) there may be other ways but this works and is very satisfying. I am sure that someone will reply to this and advise you not to drink the acid or dab it behind your ears but I assume that most of us are not completely stupid. If you are uneasy use zinc flux obtainable as below. I accept no responsibility if you manage to set the cat (or anything else) on fire or ruin your best trousers with acid splashes.Having used solder in several forms from electronics construction and repair to installing several bathrooms and central heating systems I was anxious to try my hand at zinc work, French tradesmen always seem to use a copper soldering iron heated by gas which just happened to be part of my excellent Rothenberger kit, this is just a 250 gram lump of copper with a gas jet pointing at it. However before taking the simple route I wondered why an ordinary gas flame was not used. After a few trials it became obvious that it is very difficult to heat the zinc to the right temperature without melting a hole in it, the zinc oxide forms a skin which melts at a higher temp than the zinc below. So back to the iron.First turn on the iron and let it get up to temperature, as the copper heats it will melt a bit of solder rubbed against it, wipe it clean against a bit of cotton rag (old overall is ideal, synthetics will just melt) and apply a little hydrocloric acid with a small brush as a flux then a little solder to tin the bit, it should look nice and shiny and smooth. You may have to repeat this periodically especially if the iron is too hot, adjust the gas to get a nice temp. If you do not tin the iron solder will not stick to it.As with all soldering clenliness is of prime importance, use wire wool to shine the bits to be soldered, apply a little hydrochloric acid to the joint, melt a little solder on the iron and apply it to the joint, as soon as it sticks leave it and repeat the process until you have covered one side of the joint with solder then do the same for the other side.A stick or bar of solder is best, both available from Bricomarche or M Bricolage. Next offer the parts together and then use the iron without any extra solder to melt and solder two parts together, first a few tacks and finally finish off by making a nice smooth fillet with the hot iron. I would suggest a trial on the bench first as it can be quite exciting up a ladder trying to balance a pot of acid and a hot iron at the same time.Sorry this reply is so long but it is really easy when you have mastered it.Let me know how you get on,RegardsPeterPS Are you still out there George? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.