plasterboard joints?

[Frogslegs]

when jointing plasterboard using the sticky mesh paper not solid papertape..do I try to completely fill the cavity between the plasterboard sheets with the first coat of filler or simply cover the mesh tape and finish with a second coat? Also do you use a large metal spatula for the second coat?

Hope this makes sense because Hubby has scrawled this message down for me to ask the forum!

tres urgent!!

 

[Punch]

[quote]when jointing plasterboard using the sticky mesh paper not solid papertape..do I try to completely fill the cavity between the plasterboard sheets with the first coat of filler or simply cover the mes...[/quote]

We do hundreds of square metre of plasterboarding and this is how we normally do it. The self adhesive mesh tape is designed to be stuck over the joints before any filler is applied. Then a wide spatula is used for the first coat. If the first coat is applied carefully, you then apply a second coat, sand off when dry, and then a final finishing coat which is again sanded. If you try to sand directly over the first coat, you may find you will lift the mesh tape and have dificulty in getting a good finish. There are several grades of filler, some dry quicker than others.

For internal angles between ceiling and wall or wall to wall, we use a paper tape, which is pre-creased. This is applied over a first coat of filler and flattened off with a spatula or corner trowel. A further one or two coats are then applied  with sanding in between.

For external angles, we use a paper tape that is reinforced with a steel band inside, which stops edges getting damaged when knocked.

When you do not have a bevelled edge on your plasterboard, butt joints should be chanfered to give a key for the filler and stop small cracks. We used a special plane with a stanley blade inside for this, they are fairly readily available or you can easily do it with a surform.

The trick is in using the staula and filler cotrrectly which in turn reduces the amount of sanding. You should not be able to see the joints when painted.

best regards,

Paul

 

[zeb]

.......or get someone in to skim it. Much quicker

[Ian Hoare<br>All the best<br>Ian<br>La Souvigne Corrèze<br>http:www.souvigne.com]

Hi,

Hope this is quick enough. Paul is bang on, though you may just find it a little tricky to use a wide spatula right away. What we chose to do, though I make no claims that it's right, was to use Pregycolle (that's the gluey glop used to stick plasterboards onto walls, in a thin first coat directly over the mesh, pushing it in well, with a spatula that was narrower than the recess. We took GREAT care that it wasn't proud anywhere, as it's a pig to rub down, BUT it makes a super strong reinforcement and joint.

Once that had gone off, we used a medium sized spatula to try to apply a second coate of pregylisse this time. This is relatively soft and will rub down easily if you have to. We tried to get this to almost entirely fill the recess.

Nest day, after removing any sticky out bits, (which there weren't after the first try or two) we use a slightly wetter coat of Pregylisse, using a very wide spatula and holding it almost at right angles to the surface. This leaves a perfectly smooth and perfectly level surface that needs no rubbing down, or virtually none.

Then as Paul says, check over for level, rubbing or filling s needed. You really shouldn't be able to feel any unevenness when running your hand over, and it should be invisible once finished.

Lastly. You will remember to prime the plasterboard before finishing, won't you. It makes it tougher, stops paints soaking directly into the board, and gives an excellent surface for sizing if you're lining or papering. It's called "Couche d'impression" and you can sometimes get a water based one which dries pretty fast.

[Ian Hoare<br>All the best<br>Ian<br>La Souvigne Corrèze<br>http:www.souvigne.com]

[quote].......or get someone in to skim it. Much quicker[/quote]

Hi Zeb,

Not a very French solution, and costs a bomb, unless you're a plasterer, have brought your Thistle with you and do it yourself.

When in Rome....

[Frogslegs]

Thanks very much for the speedy replies...there is no stopping him now....had dinner and he is off again!!!

[Bobc]

Paul & Ian have pretty much covered it.

As Ian has said, a first application of Pregycolle over the mesh tape will fill any gaps and dry much faster than ready-mixed skim finish. When this has dried then one or two coats of a good skim such as Knauf Enduit a Bande will provide a perfect final finish when sanded.

Good quality blades make the job much easier. Most large branches of Point P stick the excellent American, Hyde range of stainless-steel blades - expensive but worth the money.

Point P also stock the Stanley Porte Panneaux de Platre - at around 10 Euros it makes moving full sized plasterboard panels much easier.

If you have a lot of plasterboarding to do, then invest in a dedicated Makita plasterboard screwdriver - if you are fitting plasterboard to metal rail then it is indispensible.

Regards,

Bob Clarke
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/grindoux

[zeb]

[quote]Hi Zeb,Not a very French solution, and costs a bomb, unless you're a plasterer, have brought your Thistle with you and do it yourself.When in Rome....[/quote]

Sorry, but the taped and jointed bits, some done by French builder, show under electric light. Didn't want perfect plaster as this is a very old house, but what we had done just looks awful (luckily is only a bathroom ceiling).

The skimmed bits or slapped on rough plaster bits (on plasterboard hung on metal rails I hasten to add) look great. Had a plasterer in for 4 days (600 euros) to do some and we did the rest. Didn't need Thistle - Lutece 3000L works well and is available at all builders merchants here. What do you think the French use?

Taping and jointing is great if you like spending hours and hours rubbing down (sometimes at strange angles) to get it perfect - I don't and the bit I tried I was hopeless at!

 

Each to his own........

[Ian Hoare<br>All the best<br>Ian<br>La Souvigne Corrèze<br>http:www.souvigne.com]

[quote]Sorry, but the taped and jointed bits, some done by French builder, show under electric light. Didn't want perfect plaster as this is a very old house, but what we had done just looks awful (luckily i...[/quote]

Hi Zeb,

Sorry to say this, but that means it was done badly. I've restored two houses here. In the first, the joints showed. In the second, using what we'd learnt from the first, I don't think one single joint is visible, even in glancing light. It does not require interminable rubbing down if you use the method I described, and take great care with the finishing layer.

Short of suggesting you visit us here, I can't think of a way of proving what I say, and in any case I can't prove the time it took. But if you prefer to pay a plasterer, that's fine with me.

[Weedon]

The replies from "proper" builders are probably the correct way to do it.

However .From my DIY angle which worked and showed no filled areas was to use the sticky mesh tape and then fill with, Enduit de something or other, which is usually next to the Enduit de Lissage in the Bricos.  The former stuff is for filling and the latter is for smoothing.  The advantage for using both is that the first stuff dries quickly and is for deep filling (which you don't need to be too fussy about smoothness) the de Lissage stuff has a longer drying time so you therefore have more time to work with it enabling you to feather the edges with a damp sponge and saving the need for sanding, which is very very dusty.   The Lissage stuff you can buy ready to use in buckets the first time you use it.  The second time you buy the powder and mix it yourself as you then know the correct consistency and you also save money.  If you mix too much you simply get carried away with the excitement and skim most of the placo because by this time you have developed a new skill of plastering

weedon