Smiley Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 My house is in the Pyrenees and subsequently can get damned cold in the winter. As I am not there during this period I want to ensure that the heating doesn't freeze up. It is currently fitted with a red anti freeze but I don't know how old this is. Can anyone tell me the name of this in French so I can get some next time I'm down. I can add it to the system myself, no problem. Thanks,Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opel Fruit<P><BR>Opel Fruit, Dept. 53<P> Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 GEB "Anti-Gel" is available from most Brico sheds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiley Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 Hi there, can I use this with the existing anti - freeze as a top up or have i got to drain the system, this would be a big problem as there is no drain off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opel Fruit<P><BR>Opel Fruit, Dept. 53<P> Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Since the present additive efficacy is unknown, as is its composition, I would recommend it is drained (not into the drains). Add the new to the old as a last resort - it should perform OK.Are you sure there is no drain? Most boilers have a tap right at the bottom, often obscured. Otherwise, crack one of the rad joints?Suggested products (cheaper in the UK!)Fernox Alphi 11 (combined inhibitor and anti-gel)http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/93-770Sentinel X500 (combined inhibitor and anti-gel)http://www.gewater.com/applications/sentinel/x500_inf.jsp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiley Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 Hi Opel Fruit, absolutely positive that there is no drain off. Have worked with s-plans, y-plans gravity fed etc. in UK, but there is no drain off. It's a dual gas boiler /storage HW system, Pressurised system. When I first bought the house I assumed that it was like the pressurised systems in the UK where you take it to 1.5 bar and the secondary system was for HW storage. but as soon as I pressured it, it bled red water via an expansion, as it heated. Found that if I leave the water pressure low the psi gauge rises on warming and , unlike the UK systems it fires without pre-set pressure and no release via the over-pressure.New to me and worrying as I have to leave it over the winter, hence the anti freeze! I can crack a radiator on the lower ground floor to create an air gap upstairs and carefully drain enough off to introduce the anti freeze on the third floor, then re- pressure, bleed and pump to circulate it. To try and drain it all will be a mule. Then again I have a week with nothing to do but relax, maybe I should drain and incorporate a drain off at the same time but I dread their poxy micro bore pipework!Thanks for your input and look forward to more advice.Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opel Fruit<P><BR>Opel Fruit, Dept. 53<P> Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Sealed (pressurised) systems are the norm here. I think you have a problem with the pre-charge in your Expansion Vessel. You should be able to pressurise the system to 1 or 1.2 Bar cold. The pressure read off the manometer should rise as the system heats. You appear to have a problem.There will be a Schrader valve on the expansion vessel. Whilst the system is partly drained, and thus there is no hydraulic pressure acting on the vessel, I would suggest you use a tyre pressure gauge on the valve to establish whether there is any pre-charge in it. If the pressure is below 1 bar, add air. I would then leave it for a while and re-check to make sure that the vessel is holding air pressure. The air pressure disappears over a few years. The good news is that if the vessel is leaky, you can change it for less than 20 Eur..French rad piping is normally TBOE, so you may have a blanking plug at the bottom of the rads, which is obviously easy to open for draining. Conversely, you should have an easily removable bleed valve fitment at the top of the rad, so adding Antigel is straightforward. Disturbing pipework is something to avoid if possible.Adding a drain point is obviously worthwhile, but I would see if it can be done without having to solder anything - water residue will be an issue otherwise.Commiserations on the microbore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiley Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 Hi Opel Fruit,Many thanks for your prompt and informative replies.I'll give it a go.Best wishes,Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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