Frogslegs Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 John is going to build a chimney using square hollow blocks with a liner inside in sections. Built on the outside of a gable wall. He is hoping to hire a large (150mm) diamond core cutter (if they exist?). Any one know of a hire shop near Melle?Question…when drilling though a wall approx. 80cm thick, does he drill horizontal or at an upward incline (to help the draught?) Also he will be fitting a cleaning access ‘T’ piece at the bottom…someone mentioned a hole was required for condensation!…any advice on the above would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VJ Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 What are you lining the chimney with? Rule of thumb guide is a hot flue produces the best results Yes 150 mm cutters are available,make certain you have a very strong drill and one that if the cutter jams does not turn you over (slip clutch type)The least horizontal runs in a chimney the better so angle as praticalVJ and Team Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 hi just putting in a poele myself at this very moment with boisseau blocks,so...... is it a poele ??? or an insert or chimminey.. there are differnt regs for each ?? if a poele you do not need a linner with boisseau blocks ..but do not fit 45degree angles unless the the whole chimminey length is greater then 5 meters long . if you need more detail pm me dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandt Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 if your wall is constructed using concrete blockwork and normal internal insulation and internal blocks then a hole cutter is great. on the other hand though if it is stonework and rubble fill its not really practical. the cutter bounces off smaller stone and takes for ever to go through stone. much more practical to make a big hole and then make good after fixing the chimney. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogslegs Posted October 27, 2005 Author Share Posted October 27, 2005 many thanks for the replies...will be sending private message later!thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobc Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 "hi just putting in a poele myself at this very moment with boisseau blocks,so...... is it a poele ??? or an insert or chimminey.. there are differnt regs for each ?? if a poele you do not need a linner with boisseau blocks ..but do not fit 45degree angles unless the the whole chimminey length is greater then 5 meters long . if you need more detail pm me dave"As ever, completely misleading advice.What are these regs that you are quoting?For any woodburning stove (poele a bois) to function efficiently you need a stainless-steel liner within the chimney - be it an existing chimney or a new block-built one.Ideally a Fumistar or Laheyra double-insulated flue but as a minimum then single-skin stainless-steel.As for 45 degree angles - these are quite acceptable in a planned installation - all of the serious stove manufacturers offer 90 degree rear flue adaptors for their stoves.Best not get involved in areas you know nothing about.Still waiting for your Siret & TVA numbers for fosse septique installations.Bob Clarkehttp://perso.wanadoo.fr/grindouxRegistered agent and installer for Charnwood Stoves www.charnwood.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 [quote]"hi just putting in a poele myself at this very moment with boisseau blocks,so...... is it a poele ??? or an insert or chimminey.. there are differnt regs for each ?? if a p...[/quote] hi suggest you check yours, poele come under different rules ie they are a simple fire , and go on fit your 45 or 90 degree angled inox tube but the fire will not draw , done it built it and got the uk t-shirt on this one and the wind in france is the same as the uk. now if you want to talk siret no`s e-mail me not slag me of like that plonker try harder dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VJ Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Whilst not wanting to get involved in a dispute between you two Bob the team totally concur with you.Have all the calcs somewhere on flues/wind speeds/ down draughts/temperatures/ flue resistance and openings.ect One point. We did fit some years ago a pumice block flu that did not require a ss liner it had excecptional qualities and performed well. dammed expensive though. Never been a fan of the system of backfilling against an inflatable liner then removing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobc Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 "hi suggest you check yours, poele come under different rules ie they are a simple fire , and go on fit your 45 or 90 degree angled inox tube but the fire will not draw , done it built it and got the uk t-shirt on this one and the wind in france is the same as the uk.now if you want to talk siret no`s e-mail me not slag me of like that plonker try harderdave"a bit puzzled by your typically well-thought-out reply.Are you saying that a woodburning stove that has a flue installation with 45 or 90 bends will not function properly?Facts:In the UK we had two Villager stoves with rear 90 degree adaptors - both worked perfectly:http://www.villager.co.uk/wood_arange.htmAlso a Coalbrookdale Darby (from Chase Heating in Pershore - a very good source for discount woodburners in the UK) :http://www.chaseheating.co.uk/darby.htmlThis only has the option for the flue to be fitted via a 90 degree adaptor as the top is fitted with a hotplate for cooking. This worked perfectly.As with most quality stove manufacturers Charnwood produce a 90 degree rear flue adaptor:http://www.charnwood.com/features-flue-adaptor.aspIn our own guest accommodation we have a Charnwood Country 4 with a 90 degree rear flue adaptor and 4 metres of stainless-steel flue - burns perfectly:http://perso.wanadoo.fr/grindoux/grange.htmAdd to this the numerous French companies that produce flue pipe systems with 30, 45 and 90 degree bends.By your statement, then none of these can work. You obviously know more than these top-of-the-range stove companies.On the other side, I have installed a good number of Charnwood stoves in France where a 90 degree flue adaptor is required. The stoves have all worked perfectly and the clients have been happy.This year I installed a Country 12 in a village house in 46 which due to the nature of the property and the required location of the stove, required a double-insulated stainless-steel flue system with four 45 degree bends. The flue installation cost as much as the stove and worked perfectly.The real problem with your postings is that people use this Forum looking for advice. They may well read your postings and follow your poor advice.As for your Siret / TVA numbers - I would guess that most people have come to the conclusion that you are working illegally in France - sooner or later you will have a visit from the Gendarmes. Bob Clarkehttp://perso.wanadoo.fr/grindoux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 hi bob just one question for you " are you try harders dad " dave ps get you facts right on what i do or how i make my money here in france before you go " gobbing off ". e-mail me and i will tell you but i am not putting my personell wealth or details on this site dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 [quote]John is going to build a chimney using square hollow blocks with a liner inside in sections. Built on the outside of a gable wall. He is hoping to hire a large (150mm) diamond core cutter (if they exi...[/quote] John.For what its worth, If i was going to the expense of building an external chimney on the gable end of my barn i would pot it as im building, saving the cost of any type of liners[Allso it would last for ever ,not rusting out etc.]At the base i would install a soot/cleaning hatch level with the exit of the flue pipe into the chimney,below that i would install a condensate collector ie,soot well.Allso not knowing now or the future what size boiler btu or Kw size i would install.minimum of 180mm hole[sleeve] through the wall,sealing the boiler flue into that. With at least internal size 200/300mm rising stack chimney.Level or 45degree pipe off the boiler is not important.Most multifuel boilers have the plate removable for back or top outlet with the flap type draught/control stabalizer.Opel or Vj would probabley do it completely different being professionals.And bob c,who knows!! being the jack of all trades Happy flueing,or should i say that with this bird thing around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobc Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 'John.For what its worth, If i was going to the expense of building an external chimney on the gable end of my barn'I may be wrong, but I don't think the original question mentioned a barn - in which case your solution could work, although not ideal.Possibly different in other departements, but in 47 you would be unlikely to get planning permission to build an exterior block chimney on a barn. The DDE here are generally requiring that any barn conversion work involves no changes to the exterior - often to the extent that no additional door and window openings are made. They will allow internal flues with a discreet termination on the roof.Other buildings are obviously a different question, but for any installation a double-insulated stainlees steel flue is the best solution - nothing to rust - the fumes kept hot for the longest time - no rain down the chimney, easy to sweep straight through the stove, etc, etc.Regards,Bob Clarkehttp://perso.wanadoo.fr/grindoux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 [quote]'John.For what its worth, If i was going to the expense of building an external chimney on the gable end of my barn' I may be wrong, but I don't think the original question mentioned a barn - in whic...[/quote] hi bob does this mean you now agree with me ????? so i will now post on this D.I.Y. question the regs that you say quote I am very vague on but this being a D.I.Y. forum did not think people wanted pro.. detailsso for a poele in block..fire clay must be compliant with french standard nf p 51-311concrete nf p 51-321fire clay bricks nf p etc .. ect .ect do diy ers really want to read all this bumphit means in short if you put in the right block work you donot need a linner provided the inside face of the block is greater than 16cm from any wood and quote no angle of change of allingnment should exceed 45 degrees, and the height from top to bottom of any such angle section should not exceed 5 mtres so yes it will not work and yes you can diy it ......but......try and get a pro to put one in and he will say NO!! why his insurance will not cover him but is this a diy forum or not dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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