Micksyl Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 We now have our first stage foundations in and are moving forward to the installation of underfloor heating pipework. My question is whether we should build up the level from the foundation with concrete blocks where it is intended to build stud walls or if it is ok to build off the finished screed surface.Thanks for assistance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhat Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 only an opinion,cost out the price of doing your walls in block work down stairs at least,its a lot better job,just dot and dab some plasterboard on them,and it cant be that much more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tj Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 HiBuild straight off the screed, use 75mm x 50mm timber, it gives a much more solid structure, avoid the metal stuff it is absolute C**p. Or for better sound proofing use Ytong blocks as suggested by Hardhat, they are light, cut easily with a regular saw and you can plaster straight over them too ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Trollope Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 HiBuild straight off the screed, use Placostil, it gives amuch more solid structure, avoid wood, it warps like c**p and is too heavy. When in Rome.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhat Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 breeze block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhat Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 if your going to build a shed,bottom of the garden is the place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tj Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 HiBlocks, either kind, would have to be first choice, after that wood, ( kiln dried ), metal if your limit is meccano :)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Zoff Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 Nice to know everyone agrees!Personally, I would go for light blocks every time if constructing off a solid floor. You will have something solid to screw into without bothering with cavity fittings or hunting for hidden struts.I might add though that all my houses have had some wood and plasterboard stud walls and I have never had problems with them warping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 hi sorry if i have read this question correctly ...........no ... because you will not get the dpc course in . you need to end up building with beit wood ..... ect at least 4" above the dpc . dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppy Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Do they have dpc in FranceJan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 [quote user="Mikejan"]Do they have dpc in FranceJan[/quote] hi no !!!! but only a plonker would do a new build without one !!!!!!! dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardhat Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 dpc is for extieror walls, not needed on internal BREEZE BLOCK walls,sorry did i shout then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micksyl Posted April 3, 2006 Author Share Posted April 3, 2006 Thanks for the ideas teamThe consensus seems to be that we can install straight off the render following installation of the under floor pipework. We will have a combination of walls as the existing mixed tile, cow dung and bird nests infill was removed and the timber frames retained supported on concrete infill. It is our intention to retain this effect on a couple of walls (Oak been slowly drying for three years in the stable) whilst the tech room and downstairs cloak will be solid block.Off to get keys to our now watertight conversion this week. Thanks Again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 hi yes but they are going to build a stud wall off the footings !!!!! so where is the dpc????? dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppy Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Perhaps they could put some polythene or the black plastic stuff that they sell in France as dpc under the internal walls just in case there is no dpc under the footings/concrete base.Jan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tj Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 yes but they are going to build a stud wall off the footings !!!!! so where is the dpc????? When I replied earlier I read the initial post and assumed these were internel walls we were talking about, having read it again, it is not quite clear. If these are external walls then block work or brick usually comes out of the ground to DPC level, then the main wall construction would be on top of the DPC.Interior walls off the finished concrete floor should not need a DPC as waterproof membrane is fitted before the concrete is poured to prevent rising damp etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 hi could you repost this question with a bit more info....... please....... we donot want it to turn out like ........... and old C.B. phrase one nine for an argument........ shown my age a bit there........ dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micksyl Posted April 9, 2006 Author Share Posted April 9, 2006 OK. Having seen the previous discussions ! We have had a complete foundation laid in our Barn Conversion including DPC. The foundation has been left below finished level to allow the installation of insulation , underfloor heating, water and electrics. Which would then be covered with a screed and tiles.Where existing columbage walls were situated the infill has been removed and the beams suspended on small pillars to bring them up to the finished floor level.My question related to whether we should raise dividing walls directly from the foundation or from the screed that will cover the underfloor heating pipes etc. Hope that clears the position a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 hi ok we now see the light , for internal none load bearing walls build on top of the screed dave for load bearing walls you should have footings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sling92 Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 We are having underfloor heating installed at the moment and our builder and plumber have both said that the walls (either block or stud) need to go in before the screed. This is so that the insulation that sits below and to the sides of the final screed doesn't run under the wall.Having thought about it a while this does make sense - you will end up with the 'warm' slab heating up the cavity between the walls.Simon and Liz (87) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Katie Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 Just do everything that tj said including dpm then to safeguard dpc to all walls. Use thermalite or high density blocks. You can try and buy breezeblocks but they have not been manufactured for donkeys years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.