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Oak Beams


megans mum

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I am looking to put a floor into a barn next year and would like to use oak beams. I have found a supplier near Poitiers and he will cut any size for me (they need to be 8 metres long and about 10ins square) but is there any formula for working out what section I need over 8 mtrs and also would I need to use reclaimed timber as opposed to green oak. I would like to do this in one span as I don't want any supports in what will be the lounge. The upstairs part of the conversion will purely be a bedroom so minimal weight loading.

Any help would be appreciated Oh! and does anyone know of a Timber Reclamation yard preferably just north of Poitiers.

Thanks all
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Forgot to mention that the beams I have been offered is green oak but I am not sure as to what amount of movement these will produce as they dry out once fitted in place so hence the preferance for reclamed oak, or has anyone done this type of thing in green oak.?
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Hi Folks,

I've had a look through my timber tables, but have nothing for an 8mtr span, thats alot if unsuported, but i'd guess that 250mm x 250mm is undersized. The old oak joists i'll be taking out my barn are 200mm x 200mm over the 7mtrs width, they have a mid span bearer, onto posts sunk into the floor, and they have deflected!!!

If I had the option, i'd choose seasoned oak and not green, as this will move, and over a span of 8mtrs could be a problem.

Sorry I can't be more precise, but it might be worth a quich search on the net to see if you could get timber tables there.

 

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Hi Stewart

Another option for me would be to halve the length and go for a cross beam to support them but this will have to be 7 metres, (the room is 7 metres by 6 metres) but if I cross span it then I could support the ceoss beam into each wall (front wall and back wall) but the ceoss beam will have to be at least12ins square. Any ideas?

I didn.t want any intrusions into the floor space if possible.

Regards

Tom
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Tom, I'm with Stewart, 250x250 isn't sufficient over that span, an absolute minimum of 400 depth in my opinion but that's alot of cost and some serious installation difficulties, you would have to have it done by a builder which is additional cost also.

You could get away with 250x250 if you halved the distance, scarf jointed the two lengths and put a supporting upright underneath the scarf joint, the joint if made and pegged properly is an attractive one and would add to the aesthetics of the timber work, to add to the feature a couple of 45 degree 'carved' elbows joined into the upright and beam would make a real feature of the room. OK you wanted free space but my instinct is that you could lower your costs and increase the ease of the work, and make it more attractive.

Green or reclaimed? For me green, no doubt, every time. When the old places were built what did they use?  After 5 minutes of trying to work reclaimed Oak you'll have wished you hadn't bothered. Compare the cost of green and reclaimed, I suspect that will help you make your mind up! Yes of course it'll move, but that's the beauty., There are things you can do to minimise movement but it would take too long to explain. There are also simple techniques you could employ to make the difference to something that looks 'nice' and a project that looks just WOW!

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Ok, i'll not argue with Chris on the green or reclaimed issue, just been through his site with great interest, and it appears he has a love for the stuff.

I did build an extension in the UK some time ago, with it we built a first floor green oak balcony, 300mm x 300mm stantions, bolted into steel shoes, cast into concrete pad stones, all braced and cross braced, and that lot dried out and twisted, opened up all my lovely joints!!!

Did have a word with a structural engineer friend of mine, but he told me to "bugger off", "over those spans you'll need steel mate" (well, he is english and we don't often use oak!!!)

So sorry I can't be more help.

Loved your site chris, think i'll be looking you up when we finaly get over to Correze and convert our barn!

Stewart.

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