expat paul Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 Hi, I have installed a number of arrays of 12V spotlights/downlighters in my bedroom and bathroom ceilings. These have been recessed in to the attic stratigically placed in between joists. As winter is arriving I would like to insulate (rolls of fibreglass I've already got loads, ) the ceilings, obviously I need to maintain 15cms air gap above and around each spot and transformers. Any bright ideas on the best way to do this ?????, my only idea so far is the make plasterboard boxes (again I've got loads of bits left over), and lay the insulation over the top. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spongebob Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/cat.jsp?cId=102507&ts=12595Spongebob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expat paul Posted October 11, 2006 Author Share Posted October 11, 2006 Nice, but £12 each !! and I've got 18 downlighters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEO Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 [quote user="expat paul"]Nice, but £12 each !! and I've got 18 downlighters[/quote]Hi paul,Spongebob,s suggestion is a good one. Screwfix in this instance are not the cheapest If you google ( Aurora Fire Hood 150m ) then on the results page, scroll down to buy it now on an ebay site ,the price is more affordableLeo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 HiHow about buying some 100m or bigger pipe like the grey ones for waste, and cutting to size and placing around each light fitting???Just a thoughtKimberly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spongebob Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Unfortunately that stuff is thermo-softening, which means it's likely to melt, sag ONTO the light, and overheat badly.I'd stick to proper hoods, or plasterboard boxes. You could always "mass-produce" the boxes: sides (corners) held together with plastic right-angle on the OUTSIDE, and "No-More-Nails" type glue. The lid can be loose fitting or held with the same. If you cut enough pieces of plasterboard at once, assembly would be relatively easy...........after all, they will be out of sight, so don't even need to be all the same size. You DO have access above at the moment, I assume?BTW: hope YOUR low voltage lights don't suffer like mine. EIGHTEEN[blink] WOW! I've just about got rid of all my low voltage ones. I find the lamps don't last as long as they should due to the relatively poor contact area. Those contacts carry up to 6A, but are tiny, the springs are weak, and they get weaker as the lights get hot[:(] NOT a good combination.Now a MAINS Halogen? That's a MAN'S halogen lamp..........[:P]Spongebob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expat paul Posted October 11, 2006 Author Share Posted October 11, 2006 Thanks, 18 !!! yes I know, not all in 1 room I may add, MOH really really likes them. I regret having satellite TV with home design programs.So plasterboard is ok then ? my joists are centre at 450mm 150mm x 50mm section and 99% of the spotslights are middle of the joist spacing, so I was thinking 2 sides and a top using plasterboard and using joists as the other 2 sides, this would give me boxes of 350 x 350 x 150 mm maybe a few holes in the top and then some stratigically placed insulation on top.any thoughts on this plan ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystery tramp Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 I had the same problem although with fewer lights. I used inverted clay flowerpots. So far so good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 After fitting a three lamp GU10 240 v halogen in my kitchen I will never ever buy another one of these dire things! The bulbs only last a very short time; even "Long Life" items are no better!Originally they cost over a fiver £; at least I can now buy them from a wholesaler for far less.Agree about the Mickey Mouse fittings on most downlighters, too.Just wish I was a halogen bulb manufacturer.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob T Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 A good rplacement for GU10 bulbs is the LED ones. They last forever and draw less than 2 watts of power. They are very new at the moment and can be bought on ebay.de for around 6 euro each. Not sure about the light output thought, good for surface lighting but may not be bright enough for room lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre ZFP Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 I'm in the process of replacing my spots. As the bulbs blow (regularly!) I replace the bulbs with the white LED equivalent. They are more expensive but run cool (and so less electricity) are just as bright and last forever - well almost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spongebob Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 [quote user="Pierre ZFP"]I'm in the process of replacing my spots. As the bulbs blow (regularly!) I replace the bulbs with the white LED equivalent. They are more expensive but run cool (and so less electricity) are just as bright and last forever - well almost[/quote]Hmmmmmmmmmm.I have TWO mains versions of these in a room at home in the UK.They have both been replaced (free of charge), by Screwfix once, and one twice.At nearly £10 each for the white ones, the jury is still out.........Spongebob.BTW: Inverted clay pots, now THERE'S an idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 Did some research on this. The verdicts are quite mixed, in fact.The main objection seems to be the actual light level. Some testers commented that whilst they were fine for subtle background lighting, they were not yet really suitable as a direct replacement for the GU10 type.I think I shall wait awhile, yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chancer Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 What do you do if you have already boarded and insulated (laine de verre paper side down) your ceiling before realising the need for the fire protection?I assume that these hoods/flowerpots/home made ones have to be bigger than the holes for the lamps?I actually only left a 65mm hole for a ceiling rose as until now I hated anything with the 'C' word (contemporary!) but on reflection low voltage spots would look good in the kitchen and I can still drill the holes and fish the cables between.However are they really as unreliable as the postings indicate? I am very shrewd, some say overshrewd! and get annoyed if I have to change a light bulb within 1 year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expat paul Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 I have installed a false ceiling in some rooms and installed the spots in the cavity, so have no need to insulate or problems with heat output of the lamps. My latest are in the upstairs ceilings so I have access to the top via the attic, hence my original post. So for your situation I would go with a ceiling rose or a lighting track with spots or LEDs as they have no heat problems.I've had 9 12v halogen spots for nearly 1 year, and I think, I have only replaced 1. So I'm not too unhappy so I've installed another 9. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 JRI have a number of these fitted - both 230v and 12v and find them very reliable. Perhaps changed 1 230v one and no 12v ones in 4 years.Interested in the LED option, but when you see the input wattage this must result in low light output.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert the InfoGipsy Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 The thing about LEDs is that all their output is visible light. They don't waste electricity on heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 [quote user="Albert the InfoGipsy"]The thing about LEDs is that all their output is visible light. They don't waste electricity on heat.[/quote]Unfortunately, this is not actually true. ALL electrical and electronic components which pass current generate heat. Law of Entropy (I seem to think?). Older LEDs generated so little heat because the currrent was in the milliamp range and thus would not normally be detected by a human.The latest generation of high output LEDs generate signficantly higher heat because they operate at far higher currents.Interesting article here: http://cat.inist.fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=15302561 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 [quote user="P"]JRI have a number of these fitted - both 230v and 12v and find them very reliable. Perhaps changed 1 230v one and no 12v ones in 4 years.Interested in the LED option, but when you see the input wattage this must result in low light output.Paul[/quote]As a matter of great personal interest, Paul what make are the 230 volt lamps? I tried the 10,000 hour variety (Osram I think), died like the others![:@] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spongebob Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 That's why Screwfix keep replacing mine: the led ones are supposed to be good for 30,000 hours!!!Spongebob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJSLIV Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 Fitting advice from th Daily Telegraph's expert (Near the bottom of the page)http://www.telegraph.co.uk/property/main.jhtml?xml=/property/2004/03/17/plevel14.xml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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