partition walls ???

[mark and sue]

hi

just starting to renovate our house we are trying to figure out witch is the best partition wall system to use??

we are trying to turn our house into a b&b so not sure witch is best stud walling or metal stud ???

any advice would be appreciated

thanks

[Deimos]

I've just done some metal stud walling for the first time. Metal seemed to make sense for a number of reasons ("when in France ...", bugs don't eat it, lighter, cheaper, etc.). I had done wood stud walling in the UK but am not a professional and thus my experience is limited.

Unfortunately I was not impressed with the metal rail system. The only issue I have with it is strength and rigidity of the wall. I ended-up doubling up all the montants (back to back with them and then screwing them to each other to form an H in cross section). This helped a bit but the wall is still nothing like as rigid as a UK style wood stud wall. It was certainly quick to install, cheaper than wood, I did not cut my hands at all. However, for me the result is the most important thing. That said, if doing it again "knowing what I know now" I would probably use the metal stud system again mainly as it seems the standard way of doing things in France - so stick with what everybody uses.

Ian

[cooperlola]

Mr Cooperlola is upstairs at this very moment starting the partition walls.  As he is quite a dab hand with wood he is studiously avoiding the metal rail system, in spite of much lip sucking from our French friends.  His argument is that with wood he knows what he is doing and I take his point.  Use what you feel comfortable with.  I'll let you know what happens....

[mark and sue]

hi ian

whats the sound insurlation like using metal rail ? coz using stud i know i can insur;ate.

mark

 

[Turnip]

Mark,

Do not drink wine before posting[:-))]

[Deimos]

I found two types: "panels" and "rolls" (rolls being cheaper). Both are precut to 60 cm wide to its dead easy to install (even if you have doubled the montants "back to back" as this helps keep it in even better).

I used something called Isover PAR (which says its sound insulating stuff). However, cannot comment on how effective it is as the door is not on at the moment (whilst I sand the joints). To be honest having decided "when in France ..." and thus going for the French system I am assuming it will be as good as most other French "partition walls. For me it is not too critical as the room is "made" from taking space out of a particularly large landing area and thus has no adjoining habitable rooms.

Sorry I cannot comment but others with more experience can probably comment on sound insulation.

Ian

[Chancer]

Sound insulation is reasonable, no better or worse than timber studs, most of the noise usually passes through and around the door.

In terms of rigidity yes if you bash the wall with the back of your hand there is a little deflection but is this going to be done normally? perhaps with troblesome teenagers. If the door is slammed it makes no more noise or vibration than with timber studs and is also significantly reduced if insulated.

I also use "cloison alveolaires" which are really cheap and quick to use for partition walls as most prehung doorframes are sized for them, they just slide into place on chipboard runners top and bottom.

When I use metal stud against existing brick or block walls I support between the stud and wall with expanded foam, this gives a really rigid frame for the placo.

For me it is metal every time for speed, price and accuracy, but please invest in a crimping tool.

[Gastines]

 After years using wood studs I now always use Metal. Unless you buy decent timber you can end up with quite a few rejects due to bows etc. A lot of the cheap timber studding sold seems to have been cut yesterday!! With metal studs you can easily extend uprights to any height,most have slots for easier cable runs. One thing worth considering for B&B or even for your own peace and peace of mind, is to double board, even if only on the interior room side. Remember to overlap joints,I always do 40mm uprights,not 600mm. This gives you a one hour fire break and obviously makes the wall even more rigid.

2 crimping tools and cutters here if you are near this area.

Regards. 5 mins St Malo.

[Dave&Olive]

hi

 ok  , this subject has been  covered  time and time again , pro`s and con`s for both have been argued both for and against by some very helpful and knowledged people here is a short list of some of them ...

 pro`s

   light weight , you can get " enough in the boot to do a small room "

   easy and quick to use

   services easy to run into the pre cut holes

   french pre-hung door frames fit straight in

  60mm insulation battens drop in easy

 cons

   walls are flimsy and room is hollow sounding

  fitting wall units , needs a bit of forward planning

 60 mm insulation is not enough

crimping tool is a must

 my own preference   MY OWN   is to use the metal railings for ceilings and partitioning walls ,for the inside of external walls I use wood studding @ 400 centres

       http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j311/daveolive/?action=view&current=27-10-2006052.jpg 

 dave

   

  

 

[BIG MAC]

If you want a good cheat?

 

Metal stud is stronger when screws ar angled to put the metal slightly in tension.

Use osb (Oriented Strand Board) on one side before boarding very strong and if you use vapour barrier fine even in basements, oh it cheap as pommes frites also.

 

[Mikew]

Pomme frites no longer cheap - today's paper has the story that price of spuds is rising fast, due to last year's drought! Apparently Belgians are in a right state.....

[Ian]

If you follow the following link (don't know how to make it a live link, I'm afraid)

http://www.reseaupro.fr/Cata/Cata_DL.asp?dpt=36&p5=1#cata_isol

You'll find a brochure that describes various ways of using metal studding - wide/narrow, single/double, offset/aligned, single boarded/double boarded, etc. It also tells how good each combination is for thermal and acoustic efficiency. Seems to make sense.