Placo dry lining?

[bwfc1965]

I am looking for some advice regarding dry lining onto lime render.

Is it O.K. to dry line the placo directley onto the limestone render/plaster used by thr french? If so what would you recommend to do this? Is there a product similar to dry lining adhesive in th U.K?

 

Cheers

Steve

[Nick Trollope]

[quote user="bwfc1965"]

I am looking for some advice regarding dry lining onto lime render.

Is it O.K. to dry line the placo directley onto the limestone render/plaster used by thr french? If so what would you recommend to do this? Is there a product similar to dry lining adhesive in th U.K?

 

Cheers

Steve

[/quote]

Yes, it is called MAP. I wouldn't (from experience) MAP (here used as a verb!) directly onto lime plaster, especially if it can become damp. Better to stud the wall (use steel) and ventilate the void. You'd lose about 60mm from each wall.

 

[Val_2]

Plus with the tracking you can make level walls especially where you need to install kitchen units in a level run or fit a staircase snuggly. We never fix directly onto the stonework for obvious reasons stated and plus it also gives a hiding place for all those electric and water gaines to be hidden nicely.

[mike151]

the best advantage of metal studding is insulation & being able to erect a visqueen condensation barrier, ive done at least one outside wall of all my downstairs rooms, especially if theres no architectural features, even my wooden coving was carefully taken down & put back after.

[bwfc1965]

Thanks for the advice, I think I will go for the metal studded walls. Is this easy to construct around openings, i.e. windows/doors?

As for the "visqueen condensation barrier" how does this work? what materials do you use?

Cheers

Steve

[mike151]

 screw the top rail to the ceiling where you want it to go trapping the visqueen above it & let it hang down to the ground( you dont need much gap)then lay the bottom rail loose, slide in your uprights(montants) at 600mm centers, get it all square, (mark it so if it moves you dont cock up) then screw the bottom & the two sides up.next  crimp or screw the "montants" to the rails , then push in the special semi rigid insulation( i used 45mm)its like rockwool with cardboard each side roughly 600x1350mm, finally screw your boards on(special screws& gun) Ps you can use a cordless  at a push.     try & borrow a drywall gun though, you'll need some metal cutting sheers as well.

[mike151]

ps; its also an advantage to screw a small block of wood (slightly smaller than the gap )onto each montant about 1200mm up, to stop it being pushed back if any  thing/ body crashes against the wall

[BIG MAC]

An alternative to visqueen but more expensive is to use studded DPM  available from the Bricos which can be held against the wall by the metal studs (Thus eliminating the block of wood scenario) the studs allow the wall to breatheand any condensation to migrate (Good idea when casting floor screeds if going down the visqueen route is to have a fibreboard trim round the edge with the floor dpm on the inside of it so that moisture can weep away without getting into the screed) or if going with studded DPM simply cast the screed up to the studded DPM which does the same thing.