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Plasterboard without bevelled edges?


Dc

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Is it possible to buy plasterboard without bevelled edges as I am going to fill in and insulate between ceiling joists? If not is there something else to use as I intend to metal rail, laine de verre and then cover with plasterboard or something equally cost effective. Any advice greatly appreciated.

dc

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You can, but why? Unless the gap is exactly straight and a board width, you are going to cut off some or all of the edge. If the bevel remains, it gives you something to fill into, when filling to the beams.. Or you could put it the other way round and joint the edges at rightangles to the beams.

 

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I'm referring to the bevelled edge 6 cms into the placo on both longest sides. Normally they become part of the joints when taping and enduiting. My ceiling joists are about 60 cms apart and 5 metres long and I was hoping to get two strips out of  each board to fill 1 gap but don't want to see this bevelling. If I cut it off I won't get 2 strips so am looking for an alternative. Any ideas.

dc

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[quote user="nicktrollope"]

You can, but why? Unless the gap is exactly straight and a board width, you are going to cut off some or all of the edge. If the bevel remains, it gives you something to fill into, when filling to the beams.. Or you could put it the other way round and joint the edges at rightangles to the beams.

 

[/quote]

      hi

 ok   Nicks way is the right way to go ,( it`s the way iv`e  done mine here and also back in wales,)  if you try and scribe a full length of 2.5 mtr board in one hit  you are asking for it to look  like a pigs ear , cut the length off the width and saw it with an old wood saw , make sure you saw it face side up ,you will be surprised how easy this is , put in the upright every 1.2 mtrs for the joints . you can see it in this pic i have posted  before but still.

[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j311/daveolive/27-10-2006131.jpg[/IMG]

 I have used the metal rail system on this one the rails go on the joists and the uprights are set at 1.2 mtr centres  to support the joints ,if you keep the side joints tight you can get away with just filling with plaster and then a second coat of the fine stuff. the tapered parts can be filled as normal,

 Dave

ps after

[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j311/daveolive/PDR_0058.jpg[/IMG]

 

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