Lindnarden Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 We found an old wood buring oven in the barn which we want to renovate (hence the title of the post) but I know bugger all about these things....I don't even know in which compartment you are supposed to burn the wood . There looks to have been some crumbling inside (fire bricks ??) and a lot of the metal is rusty. My plan was (whilst it's outside) to light a fire in it, once I know where, and see what happens...does this sound like a plan, or indeed a good plan ?? Some pics of said oven.....www.kandrews.co.uk/oven/pic1.jpgwww.kandrews.co.uk/oven/pic2.jpgwww.kandrews.co.uk/oven/pic3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 If the cast iron bits aren't cracked, any sheet work can be replaced by a competent sheet metal shop.It should come apart: you will need lots of heat (Ideally Oxy-Accetylene since it is far hotter and easy to spot focus) as the bolts will be very rusty.Internal fire bricks can usually be replaced.Have it sand blasted to bring it up like new.Nothing much to go wrong, only probably the damper: and that will only usually require new pivots.Bonne Chance ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindnarden Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 Thanks for that.... the problem is going to be moving the bloody thingto a sheet metal shop as it is quite fantastically heavy. Wouldthe sand blasting take off the blue kind of enamel finish on theoutside ?? There is also a small crack in the top - is this likely tobe a show stopper ?? (It looks worse than it is in this picture becauseit is still wet after we hosed off all the dust etc)www.kandrews.co.uk/oven/pic4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Athene Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 We have a stove/oven like this. It is probably of a similar age and it certainly is the same lovely colour. We have not fitted it yet but we are having to have a special flue pipe made up as it smaller in diameter than the flues they sell over the counter nowadays. Hope this helps as it is something else to check out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 [quote user="Lindnarden"]Thanks for that.... the problem is going to be moving the bloody thing to a sheet metal shop as it is quite fantastically heavy. Would the sand blasting take off the blue kind of enamel finish on the outside ?? There is also a small crack in the top - is this likely to be a show stopper ?? (It looks worse than it is in this picture because it is still wet after we hosed off all the dust etc)www.kandrews.co.uk/oven/pic4.jpg[/quote]Yes, the sandblasting would ruin the enamel: consider retaining and keeping original in this case.Crack: should be weldable. Lots of clever stuff around these days for shielded arc welding cast iron. The heat of the wedling process will howeverdestory local enamel.In order to move it, take it apart! If it won't come apart, then difficult if not impossible to renovate anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre ZFP Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Shouldn't need to move it to a sheet metal shop if you can make accurate drawings of any bit you need.Can I add a word of caution? I don't mean to sound all 'Nanny' but some of these old stoves do have cracks which can let carbon dioxide out and if it's to be used indoors..... Not sure how you could easily check this, perhaps going over it with a domestic CO2 detector when its up to speed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 More crucial Pierre is Carbon Monoxide: this prevents haemoglobin taking in oxygen and kills you!In essence, the "Firebox" is probably lined with firebricks which are quite easily replacable and they can then be sealed in with the correct type of fireclay. Provided the chimney is then fitted correctly thereafter, shouldn't be a problem.Cracks are either unsightly or structurally problematic, rather than dangerous. If in the oven bit they can of course allow heat to escape.Again though, could be welded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre ZFP Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 You are quite correct - meant to say carbon MONoxide - must have been thinking about my carbon footprint!Welding old cast iron can have its problems. Firstly, modern welding rods for cast iron are not usually suitable as 'old' cast iron is not much more than the ore that was dug out of the ground and doesn't respond well to new stuff. Secondly, with all the heat of welding, you can easily introduce new cracks when it cools down. The way around it is to bring the whole thing up to temperature then weld and cool slowly over several days. I've done this with an old woodworking plane but no idea if it is possible with something this size. Hope its not necessary for you.It looks a great stove, I hope you can fix it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanche Neige Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Pierre said"It looks a great stove, I hope you can fix it up."I'll second that! I have a passion for old stoves. Even if it doesn't ever function it would make a lovely feature in an old house.We have tiled one in our kitchen, poele that is not one that cooks although it is possible to sit a casserole dish on the top and cook that way. Ours was lurking in the garage when we bought the house. The stove was taken apart, moved into the kitchen put back together and re-fitted. It heats beautifully and is very much a focal point. Good luck and let us know how you get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Agreed about welding cast iron Pierre.You use a "Buttering" rod of cupro-nickel and then plain mild steel rod. I used to use Eutectic.Once the stove is dissassembled, you would then need to "Muff" the offending part, bring it up to heat slowly and once welded, cover with sand and hessian and leave along to cool down very slowly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 I'd just like to echo what blanche neige has said. What a beautiful piece of furniture. I acquired a Klondike stove(nothing in comparison with yours) but the riddle and damper had rusted solid. I used good old WD40 and just kept slowly moving it over a matter of days.All the moveable bits now work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindnarden Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 Thanks for all the pointers people...as a web designer it's safe to say my welding skills are verging on the not almsot completely perfect....I may be searching for a little man with a big trailer[:D] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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