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Fitting doors


Andy and Sarah

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Over the summer we put up all the metal partitioning on the top floor to create 2 bedrooms and a bathroom. We have now started to add the plasterboard and are ready to fit the 3 doors. We found in Leroy Merlin and Castorama doors and frames complete - now the stupid question: The frames are 15cm longer than the doors (which they are not in England) - is this so one can can cut them to ensure a square and level fit, or should they be trimmed and sunk into floorboards. Alternatively are we better to purchase seperately?

Thank you for any advice.

Andy and Sarah 

 

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Trim them to the height that you want remembering to allow for carrelage or carpet[+o(]

You would normally build the frames into the metal stud wall system before fitting the plasterboard, they normally have a 50mm rebate which is designed for "cloisons alveolaires" but which will also fit nicely around R48 montants, if you use 10mm plasterboard you can then fit architraves flush to the frame and board, if you use BA13 the architraves will splay out a little but not noticably.

If you use the cloisons or carreaux de plâtre for the partition walls no architrave is needed.

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[quote user="Rob Roy"]And whatever you do don't remove the struts that keep the door and frame together before fitting them - BIG mistake!![/quote]

Not always an option: one of mine came with the strut right across the base, which was being trimmed[:(]

Luckily, I had a spare from the other door, which I fitted ABOVE the trim line, then removed the one below.

I actually enjoy fitting pre-hung French frames and doors. At least you can be certain that if you fit the frame vertical, the door will open and close properly, latch properly, and won't open or close of it's own accord without a door closer fitted[;-)]

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And oh the joy of not having to rebate three sets of damned hinges per door!

I was told by a builder that the 'horns' on the bottom of the frames serve the twin functions of protecting the bottom of the door (?) and allowing some means of setting the door and frame if they are going into a poured concrete floor.

We came back to France to one house to find all our bedroom/bathroom doors standing in splendid isolation as the concrete dried, with them (for a wonder) all the right way round. The horns in the concrete were quite sufficient to keep them stable.

We had great fun walking around notional rooms (a la News Editor, Les Nessman in WKRP Cincinatti) but through real doors.

p

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Thank you all for the advice - why is it everyone makes things sound so simple!!

Just a little confused as to what the struts are - the doors are wrapped in plastic so we have never had a really good look at them - do they keep the frame together and are then removed once hung?

Thanks again to you all.

 

Andy and Sarah

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[quote user="Andy and Sarah"]

Thank you all for the advice - why is it everyone makes things sound so simple!!

Just a little confused as to what the struts are - the doors are wrapped in plastic so we have never had a really good look at them - do they keep the frame together and are then removed once hung?

Thanks again to you all.

 

Andy and Sarah

[/quote]

If you take the struts/strapings off you will quickly discover that the frame has little integrity of its own - the corner joints being very simple finger or m&t joints - and you will be holding (variously) a rectangle, a parallelagram, a rhomboid, and a pair of expensive clothes props!

p

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