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number of lighting points


Nick M

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Apologies if this has been posted before, but I can't find the answer to my question.

I gather that the norms say that a maximum of 8 light fittings can be fitted to a 16 amp circuit. Is this dependent on the wattage of the fittings or is it cut and dried 8 fittings full stop.

I have a living area were I would like to install 9 ( 3 rows of 3) spotlights on one switch, but according to what I’ve read this is not possible, I was thinking of using energy efficient down lighters at 7watts each which is only 63watts on a 16 amp circuit breaker, well within the circuit limits.

Another option I have is to use low voltage halogen down lighters with there own transformers, if I use 9 individual fittings with there own transformers I will be over the limit, but if I use a 3 fittings with 4 lamps on each fitting will that still be ok as it is technically only 3 fittings.

Also when connecting down lighters that are on the same switch can I 1) loop from the fitting connector to the next fitting 2) use a small joint box at each fitting that can be accessed throw the fitting cut out or 3) do they all have to go back to an accessible junction box.

Sorry if the answers are obvious but I’m used to working with lighting circuit loads not numbers of fittings.

Thank you for your help

Nick M

 

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Rather than a chopped-up quote, herewith your answers, in order....

True, although Promolec say 5.

8 max refers to 8 "loads" - so your 9 fittings would be 1 circuit (or however many you wanted). They would all need to feed to a junction box (along with the power and switch feeds, ideally). I believe that the maximum number fittings per circuit is 8, however.

Each transformer would be 1 "fitting" - you wouldn't use 1 tfmr/light, more like 3/4 per tfmr. Transformers go up to  150W +.

230V downlights must be fed via a j/b. Only DCLs can be "looped" - I have never seen a DCL downlighter.

Personally, I would never use LED lamps in a living room. The light is far too harsh. Also consider adding more switches (say switching in 3 banks...)

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Nick thank you for your help it is much appreciated

just one question, if I use the 230 v downlighters can you use small j/bs if they exist that will fit through the aperture in the ceiling and therefore laying loose in the ceiling to connect all the fittings on the same switch all together (except for the first fitting which would go back to the j/b with the switch line in) or would you have to run each one back to the main j/b (obliviously using a lot more cable).

The energy efficient fittings I was thinking of using were not LEDs but 7 watt GU10 compact fluorescent lamps which is claimed to give out the same amount of light as a 35w halogen, not quite sure of that but they are quite bright after they have warmed up (about 5 mins).

Thank you again for your advice nick

 

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Nick

I am planning to put junction boxes in the void between the sloping roof and the vertical lower wall in the upstairs rooms of my house (does that make sense - think loft room with sloping upper roof and vertical lower wall).

I planned to put an inspection hatch in the wall in front of the location of the junction boxes with the inspection hatch screwed to the wall. Would that count as accessible?

Thanks.

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Nick, I have seen you post loads of good advice on here and am interested  in learning more re Standards and Normes...can you recommend any English publications / guides? there's no way my pidging French would be up to understanding the French version but I suspect if I can understand the broad brush in English then the rest will slot into place. I am going to use French labour for all the connections and testing in my refurb but would like to run in all the cable and containment myself as this way I can go at my own speed and adjust things as I go to suit the ever changing layout.

No doubt a question you get asked a hundred times a year but any guidance sincerely appreciated.

Cheers, 

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