Aitch Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 I contributed to a post over a year ago regarding the ceiling insulation. I am now better after the heart attack so I want to complete this job, What is the best method and way to do it?1. Use battens, Rockwool and plasterboard.2. Use the metal tie-rod system and screw the plasterboard onto the supported hangers.3. Use 'isolation thermique' which would appear to do all in one go, bearing in mind that I would want to achieve a reasobaly level looking ceiling. Any help, advice guidance much appreciated.Thanks Aitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Department71 Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 Aitch,So you have been on the death awareness course as well, glad you are now fit again, can't give you any clues about the ceiling, but good luck anyway.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aitch Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 Thanks for the kind words. Yes the DAC does focus the mind, but like the old song, 'you keep a knocking but you can't come in......come back tomorrow and try again', not that I want to!!Aitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex H Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 AitchI used plasterboard with insulation attached for my kitchen ceiling and intend doing the same with the bedroom. I attached it to small battens at the end and positioned appropriately along the length. There is only one join per run, but as you can see I've 'crepied' over it [:D] to try and hide any 'anomilies'.I think if I had had more space to play with, I would have gone with the rockwool / plasterboard combination as its probably a lot cheaper.Here it is just after crepi-ing (not the bit round the lights[:D])[IMG]http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa288/alexhudghton/ceiling.jpg[/IMG] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aitch Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 Thanks for that and a good photo too! Your ceiling appears to be very similar to what I want the finished article to be. When I called into the local brico the 'isolation thermique' that you have used is what they recommended to me given the space restraints betwenn the beams. Any problems with using crepi as I had thought that a quick skim with plaster might be the route to go, for me anyway? I'm looking for the simple easy option and although there will be 2 of us doing the job, I don't want too much stretching, unless it's for a beer!Aitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex H Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 Crepi - although the finish is good and its very cheap - is a pain. You have to apply it with a trowel and then go over with a roller to achieve the desired effect. I'm not going to crepi the bedroom. just try and skim over the joins the French way. (having just completed a wall in MK I am NOT a plasterer [:D]). It is easier than plaster though given the space you have to work in - I have about 50cms between beams and sometimes a lot less. So it really depends on your skill level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarksinfrance Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Am I right in thinking you have used "cheeks" on the side of the original beams? If so I would use plasterboard, and as thick a rockwool as you can, keeps heat in and cuts down on noise. If you use the width of the plasterboard, you will end up with 1.2m x 60cms (ish) pieces of board which aren't to heavy to lift, or too unwieldy to manoeuver. Fix chevron, wherever there is a join, so you can screw the 2 edges to gether. If your beams are curved, mark them every 10cms, and measure the distance of the marks from a straight line, and transpose those measurements to the board, prior to cutting, this will give a fairly good fit, without too much filling afterwards. When finished, use selfadhesive scrim to cover the joints and the edges, then use a filler to fill the gaps/joints, sand back, then re-fill a second time, then sand again. We have used many different makes of filling compound, from self mix, to ready mix, the best I have found so far is PR4 available at Pascoes, while this is more expensive (€30/25Kg) than fillers you may find in the Brico sheds, its is much easier to sand, pure white, and easier to leave a fine unnoticeable finish. It takes a while to complete, but is worth doing well. Then use either a sous-couche or cheapy Brico Depot emulsion at €5.50 for 10ltrs. 3 coats gives a great finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aitch Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share Posted February 25, 2009 Thanks for the detailed info.You are right. The cheeks that you can see in the photo are from the original ceiling that was taken down. Several will need replacing to go the way you suggest. Thankfully, the beams are relatively straight with little deviation, so no major curves or bends to cater for. (Different story with the walls). However, haven't come across the term 'chevron' you describe. My only thought is that, at the end of the plaster board the edges are cut at 45degrees, and butted together to make a smooth join. Is that what you mean or am I barking up the wrong tree in my understanding?Many thanks Aitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarksinfrance Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 sorry, chevron is a size of wood, used in roof construction. I actually meant to type demi-cheron, which as the name implies is half the size.:http://www.bricodepot.fr/metz/node/114Fix the demi-chevron to the cheeks, where you will have a join, then you can screw the chevroned ends of the plasterboard to make a solid joint, before filling/sandind/filling/sanding etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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