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Electric water heater


PaulT

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Need to fit an electric water heater. From a little bit of research (looking on various bricolage websites) it would seem that a safety device is needed in case the thermostat fails.

 

Wondering whether this goes on the input or output side and would be grateful for information on anything else that needs to be fitted.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

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May be stating the obvious, but if its a new installation, you need to allow the water which comes out to drain away somewhere. If this is not possible, I think an air loaded accumulator (red cylinder to absorb the pressure) is available.
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When we had ours fitted the "Groupe de Security" (the safety valve I think OP are refering to ) kept blowing because of the fluctuating mains water pressure.

We had to have a pressure reducing/stablising valve fitted on the incoming mains.

I think the G de S are designed to blow at around 3.5 bar and our mains pressure would/does fluctuate between 1.5 and 6 bar.

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In the majority of cases you should automatically fit a regulator to

keep your pressure below about 3.5 bar. Even if yours is routinely

lower than that there can be no telling when you might get a surge

which could quite possibly blow a pipe somewhere.

The group de security relief valve is typically set for 7 or 7.5 bar, it will say so on it somewhere. For mine, which I recently replaced, I actually plumbed the overflow into the nearby washing machine waste.

Can't find the thread at the mo but there is a 2006 regulation which requires a temperature regulator (mitigeur thermostatique) device in the outflow to limit the temperature to 50c to prevent possible scalding. This should be for the overall hot feed to the taps not just for the baloon.

[img]http://www.leguideduchauffage.com/photogallery/accessoires/schema-installation-mitigeur-thermostatique-avec-bouclage.JPG[/img]

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[quote user="AnOther"]Can't find the thread at the mo but there is a 2006 regulation which requires a temperature regulator (mitigeur thermostatique) device in the outflow to limit the temperature to 50c to prevent possible scalding. This should be for the overall hot feed to the taps not just for the baloon.

[/quote]

Be helpful if you can Ernst, always been concerned the the temp of the water, didn't want to fit a UK 40 deg one as it may have broken some rule for France.

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Actually looking again that may be the wrong diagram as evidently it's some sort of pressure overflow/feedback and right to left it seems to be a ball valve, a pump, and a non return valve.

Still hunting for the regulation !

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It's a circulator pump between two isolating valves. It ensures there's always hot water at the taps, so you don't have to run off water for ages waiting for it to get hot. Energy saving? maybe. a luxury feature, certainly.

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Damned fine idea.  I always get fed up waiting for the hot to arrive and end up washing my hands in cold.  We must loose 5-10 litres of hot water that just sits in the pipe after you have shut the tap, not a huge problem if you have just run a bath, maybe 5% wastage but just to wash your hands[:(]

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[quote user="crossy67"]Damned fine idea.  I always get fed up waiting for the hot to arrive and end up washing my hands in cold.  We must loose 5-10 litres of hot water that just sits in the pipe after you have shut the tap, not a huge problem if you have just run a bath, maybe 5% wastage but just to wash your hands[:(]
[/quote]

That is the way that non domestic installations are required in the UK, it prevents Legionella. All very fine when taps etc are in constant use. However, how often do you actually use the taps in your house? Just think how much heat will be lost from it just circulating.

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