Room partitioning

[megans mum]

In our farmhouse we virtually have a blank canvas upstairs. The stairs were put in by the previous owner and the beginings of a bathroom but that's all. My question is simply, to divide off into bedrooms/ensuites etc is it a simple case of 3x2 studded walls and plasterboard as in the UK or is that not the way the French artisans would do it?

Tom

[zeb]

French artisans would use the metal railing system with plasterboard. Reasons are that metal doesn't warp, get eaten, rot etc as wood might and also has holes to enable electrics to be fed through.

But, I'd say, if you are doing it yourself and don't want to learn a whole new system, and constructing wooden studwork is what you are comfortable with, go for it. Many do!

[Chancer]

Allow yourself half an hour to learn the whole new system! It really is that easy and you will never want to return to expensive and irregular wooden studs.

If it is purely partition walls and especially if space is at a premium consider using "cloison alveolaires" (2 sheets of plasterboard pre-bonded to a core), these simply slide into place using wooden guide rails and you can buy standard pre-hung doors with a rebate of 50mm which encase the panels leaving no finishing or architraves necessary.

Overall the cost is comparable to plasterboard and metal stud but much faster and with minimal finishing required, the only drawback being the slightly flimsy feel (only if you go thumping the walls) and the increased difficulty of running cables.

[cooperlola]

I'm finding this quite amusing as I suggested the metal studwork to Mr Cooperlola but as he is more familiar with timber, he will not be budged from using it!  Still, it's working fine so who am I to complain?

[Bugsy]

I used the metal type for the first time and found it both cheap and very easy to use but,

It's very easy to cut yourself.

It's much easier to cut if you have the proper 'shaped' guillotine.

The holes for electrics have sharp edges which I protected with split plastic tube (a professional will probably tell me that that was not necessary).

I also 'pop' riveted mine together rather than use screws. (probably only because I have a very large box of rivets [:)])

[powerdesal]

[quote user="Bugbear"]

I used the metal type for the first time and found it both cheap and very easy to use but,

It's very easy to cut yourself.

It's much easier to cut if you have the proper 'shaped' guillotine.

The holes for electrics have sharp edges which I protected with split plastic tube (a professional will probably tell me that that was not necessary).

I also 'pop' riveted mine together rather than use screws. (probably only because I have a very large box of rivets [:)])

[/quote]

I think protecting sharp edges is a must where electrics are concerned, but then I'm not a 'certified' professional ( perhaps I should be Certified but not electrically   [:P] )

Pop rivets sounds like a pretty good idea.

[Moslynne]

Hi Bugbear,

We have a house  about 15 minutes from Civray and It looks like I will need to put up 2 partition walls.

Would it be possible for you to expand on how you use this system and a good place to buy it from.

                                       Thanks

                                                 Morris

[Nick Trollope]

[quote user="Bugbear"]

I used the metal type for the first time and found it both cheap and very easy to use but,

It's very easy to cut yourself.

It's much easier to cut if you have the proper 'shaped' guillotine.

The holes for electrics have sharp edges which I protected with split plastic tube (a professional will probably tell me that that was not necessary).

I also 'pop' riveted mine together rather than use screws. (probably only because I have a very large box of rivets [:)])

[/quote]

I'[ve used looooads of this & I've cut meeself plenty - use gloves! I'd also invest 60€ in a crimp tool and 5€ in a plasterboard screw driver bit, which can also be used to drive the self-tappers (TPRC13) that can be used when you can't crimp.

Sharp edges are only a problem to gaine (and remember that you can't pass anything else through a stud wall) when there is movement - which there shouldn't be!

 

[Bugsy]

[quote user="Moslynne"]

Hi Bugbear,

We have a house  about 15 minutes from Civray and It looks like I will need to put up 2 partition walls.

Would it be possible for you to expand on how you use this system and a good place to buy it from.

 Thanks   Morris

[/quote]

I've PM'd you Morris.

[megans mum]

Thanks guys for as always a speedy response . I have decided to stick with the tried and tested method of 3x2 and plasterboard. It works for me!

Also a criteria that is relevant is that there is no desperate rush to complete the upstairs

Thanks again

Tom xx

[lh]

I know this is an old thread but it seems appropriate. We need to dryline an old wall and intend to use the metal railing system to support the plasterboard, but our wall is almost 3.7 metres high - ie 1 and a half sheets of plasterboard. Do we add a back-to-back set of the floor/ceiling rails at 2/3 up then continue up? Will this be stable enough if we back-to-back the uprights? Or are extra-long uprights available so we don't need any intermediate cross-rails? Any advice would be appreciated.   

[Chancer]

A similar reply to mine on another thread, look in the Placostil catalogue and you will have all the designs together with heights, spans etc, I am in another country at the moment so cant look for you.

I have recently done some 3.5m high cloisons and used 80 * 60 chevrons for expediency, there was a way to do it with rails but the longer larger stuff costs an arm and a leg in my parts.