Chainsaw Brands - suggestions and recommendations

[Deimos]

I need to purchase a chainsaw and have seen some really

useful comments having used the search facility (that now seems to work

well).  However, a few different

opinions and I wonder if anybody has comment on the decision I am considering (as

described below)

Looking for a decent quality smallish petrol model for

felling trees and cutting them for firewood. 

Mostly softwoods but occasional e.g. oak.  Considering Stihl or Husqvarna (as that is what my local decent

quality specialist shop stocks). 

Probably 35/40 cm blade.  I like

the idea of a “top handle” so I can “dismantle” trees closer to the road “top

down” (i.e. cut them down in e.g 1m sections from the top thus no risk of them

falling on the road).  However, these

seem described as “specialist” and being lighter may not be as robust as other

models.  Also, safety recommendations say they should not be used "on the ground".  Looking for something worth servicing that will last and I can get spares, etc. for for years to come - not something "cheap and chearful" (but price is still a consideration).

Specific models being considered Stihl 180 C-BE (1.5Kw,

4.2Kg) or MS 210 (1.6Kw, 4.4 Kg).  Maybe

the Stihl 192T (1.3 Kw, 3Kg and top handle) or maybe the Husqvarna 142e (1.9Kw,

4.6Kg).

Anybody any experience of the models, brands, other thoughts

or comments (all welcome).

The store is a specialist garden machinery stockist and I

have purchased stuff from them before. 

One thing they always seem to do is to take you through to the workshop

and give you a safety training session when you purchase such machines (as they

did with my petrol Stihl strimmer).  I

am aware of the safety issues and that these machines can be exceptionally

dangerous very quickly – which does not mean I’m safe, but I do try to be.

Many thanks

Ian

[Quillan]

Go for a Stihl. Why, because you can always get them serviced just about anywhere. I bought mine over from the UK, its about 6 years old now. I get it serviced every 2 years and its never let me down and always starts. In fact the only problem I ever had was that it would not stop. Took it to my local guy and had it fixed while I waited. Can't speak to highly of them. Also got a Stihl strimmer as well, very good.

Hope this helps.

[Tony F Dordogne]

For what it's worth Stihl is the type used by the gardeners at Kew and the guys that recently took down 26 tress at the back of our place used nothing but Stihl - I have one, great bit of kit.

If you get it from Weldom, it's usually cheaper than the specialist suppliers and with one of their loyalty cards, you get points towards your discount 'passports'.

[Poolguy]

Demios

It all depends on the type of work your doing, as what saw to choose.

Both Stihl and Husqavarna are great saws.

When I was milling and doing tree surgery I chose Stihl for hardwoods and Husqavarna for soft woods.

The reason is that stihl is lower reving and higher tourque so its good

for hardwood were as the slower chain speed is not so attractive in

softwoods where the higher resin tends to stop a saw. SO Husqavarna

with very high chain speed will beat a stihl through pine every time.

SO choose well and remember to also buy safety pants helmut and gloves with your purchase and ALWAYS wear them.

These saws cut wood really well and its much harder than flesh.

Andrew

[Danny]

Ian

I happen to have bought the Husqvarna model you mention - 142E - and am very happy with it. I felt that it was much sturdier than the stihls at a similar price.  It starts well each time and runs very well. I use it for felling small trees (mostly oak) and cutting firewood. Managed to cut an oak which was about18 inches in diameter as well but it is not really designed for prolonged use on such big trees. It struggled.

I do not really need anything bigger. If you can, pay a little extra (30 - 50 euros between models) for the model you need, its got to be worth it as it should last a very long time. After 10 years it should still be working.

Any heavier models will cut more efficiently and obviously be a bit more awkward (tiring?) to handle.

I have a stihl strimmer and am very happy with that too. They are both quality makes.

hope that is useful

Danny

[Alcazar]

Mine is a Stihl, can't remember the model number offhand, and it's locked up in the barn in France[^o)]

It starts well, (now that I've learned how to do it properly), and works well too. I've had it about 4 years.

The only problem I had was that the manual was the only one, of all the things I bought in France, to give instructions solely in French, and wouldn't you know it, my technical French wasn't up to it, and neither was my dictionary.

An e-mail to Stihl in the UK when I got home, saw an English manual in my hands within two days, free of charge.

When I bought it, the man selling it me also recommended "Partner" as a good buy.

Alcazar

[chirpy]

I also bought stihl-and would add use goggles =ear defenders and steel toed boots as well as hardhat and overalls/gloves.

there are more accidents here than most places .

one slip and you wont be cutting any more trees or logs.

if unsure dont do it get advice

rope any pieces of branches so they do less damage when falling-it may take a little more time but worthwhile.

 

I have stilhl 260--my second in 3 years because after using the first time after a winter break i picked up the can of petrol without oil additive and engine knackered.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

expensive error but wont do that again.

also bought safety overalls and fs55 strimmer

bought 180c electic to cut logs to length but brico table not very satisfactory-needed to turn log around as cut stopped due to design of bench.

necessary to sharpen chain frequently for efficient work- bit of a pain when you have a lot to cut.

uk also sent me copies free of charge of all handbooks.

[Deimos]

Many thanks for the comments and suggestions.  I already have quite a lot of the safety

gear for strimming (hat visor, boots, gloves). 

I’m moving towards the Husqvarna, though I guess final decision will

probably be in the shop depending on how each “feels” (sturdiness, weight, etc.).  Reassuring to know that both makes are

decent quality (the Husqvarna appears slightly cheaper low end models for

similar specs – though were there a difference in quality then this might have

made a difference).

Comments from everybody are very helpful and many thanks

Ian

[Jonzjob]

I have a little Stihl 010AV with a 14 inch bar. It's worth getting a model with the anti vibration mountings on the handle, it's much more comfortable. The top handle is really designed for professionals working up trees along with the correct harness and training. The handle means that you can use it one handed, but not a good idea, but it means that you have a much shorter saw for using in alkward places. If you are intending to work up trees then my best advise is to either get your self on a course or use a bow saw. As Andrew said, they are very good a cutting, they don't differentiate in what they cut and your leg is very soft compaired with even soft wood!

I have had my saw for about 20 years now and used it quite a lot but infrequently. I have always used steel capped boots, ear defenders and safety glasses. I have been lucky with no accidents so far, but our new house here has a large garden with lots of trees and it will be used more often now so I have just bought a pair of Stihl trousers from Espace Emaraude. They were less that 100€ and worth every centime and I am the first to admit that they should have been bought a long time ago.

In our move the hand book for my saw went walkabout, so I phoned Stihl U.K. tech line and explained the situation. My saw is now quite old and not made anymore, but the guy was very helpfull and I have the last copy (photocopied) that they had for my model. It was sent free of charge and I was told that if I needed any more info just to phone and they would help.

The 2 names mentioned through out this thread are not the cheapest on the market by a long way, but I think that you will find that they are 1. the very best,  2. you will get all the aftersales service you will possibly need and 3. they will last you a lifetime if you look after them. Make sure that what ever you decide to buy has a chain brake, it could save you a lot of problems. I would think all the good makes will have this feature!!!!!

The golden rule when using a chain saw must be "Terra firma" meaning the firmer you feet the less terror you will experience![^o)]

John.

[hoverfrog]

Stihl, every time.

I have had a 210 for 6 years now, and bought a 380 after we came out to France as we needed something with a bit more oomph for the large lumps of oak...

Easy to get bits for, both the same to service (we do it ourselves - after proper instruction of course!) and the local shop is fantastic :)

One thing I was taught to do religiously was to use the chain break, but none of the locals seem aware of its existence even...!

Talking of the local shop, when I bought my 380 the chap went through everything with me, then carried it out to the car and put it in the boot for me! Like I wasn't going to be using it (and carrying it) for real :) And who said chivalry is dead :)

hoverfrog

[Jonzjob]

"One thing I was taught to do religiously was to use the chain break"

Hi HF I'm realy intrigued. In what way were you taught to use the chain brake?

My neighbour's electric saw doesn't have one and one of the guys who cut a couple of my trees down for me last week was in the habit of using a top handle model horizontally up a ladder at about head hight, 6 inches away from his face, single handed [+o(]. I walked away and got on fitting the roof insulation to my workshop roof!!! If that had kicked I didn't want to see it!!!

John.

[hoverfrog]

[quote user="Jonzjob"]

"One thing I was taught to do religiously was to use the chain break"

Hi HF I'm realy intrigued. In what way were you taught to use the chain brake?

My neighbour's electric saw doesn't have one and one of the guys who cut a couple of my trees down for me last week was in the habit of using a top handle model horizontally up a ladder at about head hight, 6 inches away from his face, single handed [+o(]. I walked away and got on fitting the roof insulation to my workshop roof!!! If that had kicked I didn't want to see it!!!

John.

[/quote]

as per the Lantra Awards (which make use of HSE AFAG safely guides 302,303,304,801,802 & 804 and the HSE Chainsaw at work leaflet, leads to National Profficiency Tests Council (NPTC) unit CS31 et al,) the chain break is supposed to be applied whenever one is not actively cutting. In practice one is supposed to activate it as soon as the cut is finished by a flick of the wrist. It's also one of the 5 important tests to do every time you fire the thing up (that the break works). The problem I have with the 380 is deactivating the break before commencing another cut - being female (ok, so not particularly feeble or slight in build!) I find it hard to hold the saw steady while deactivating the break without taking my right hand off the saw to do it.

There are those with much more expertise than me in these forums (Chris Head for example!), as an enthusiastic amateur I just do what I've been told! :)

hoverfrog

[Jonzjob]

Thank you for the explanation HF.

My book (Stihl manual) sais that the tick over speed should be set so that the chain does not move at idle. There is also an inertia break that operates the chain brake even if the brake guide isn't moved, but there is enough inertia of the saw kicking back. It also sais that you must be careful of any sudden acceleration of the motor causing the chain to move. This can happen when the saw is just running out of fuel, then the motor accelerates for a few seconds before stopping. I think that it is because it starts to run 'lean' for a very short time.

Mind you I would go along with ANY safety that goes with one of these beasts. They make short work of oak and wouldn't even sneeze at a leg! I also use much more sophisticated wood cutting kit such as a large (ish) band saw and a router for making all sorts of wooden toys and have done so for over 10 years now and I still hold up 4 fingers when ordering 4 pints (or I used to when I lived in the U.K.) These things can bite and with no concience so they demand respect. They all get it from me!!!

John.

[Rayring]

Stihl manuals in English for their chainsaws and brushcutters can be downloaded from their US website as pdf files.

Ray

[Jonzjob]

Hi Ray, I had a look at the site and tried the manuals. It comes up with a blank for my 20 year old model. Most of the others are there. So for me it was lucky that Stihl U.K. had 1 copy left. The Yanky one probably wouldn't be valid for mine anyway, because theirs are left hand drive aren't they?[8-)]

John.