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Buying a chainsaw


Deimos
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LOL!

I have the dog as my avatar as she's better looking than me :) Still somewhat more substantial after last child - although that does makes wielding a chainsaw easier (she says, hastily getting back on topic!)

My large Stihl took some getting used to after the 210, as it tends to rear like a horse when revved hard while doing the 5 safety checks before cutting.

Dick - I will use Camino in future if posting pics.

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I was taught to do the following:

1) Full revs for 1-2 minutes to warm up, then check chain brake.

2) Oil test against chain guard or similar.

3) Let it idle and check there is no chain creep.

4) Off switch.

5) Chain tension.

On a previous thread of this nature opinion was divded on the use of the chain brake... we were taught to always engage it when not actively cutting, although on my large Stihl I can't do it with a flick of the wrist like on the small one!
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Hoverfrog another important consideration is when you remove your face shield/ helmet/

I have perfected the art of removing a welding mask  'flashdance' style. I think it could also work for you here.

Remember, It's all about the hair.

[:D]

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<<<I was taught to do the following:

1) Full revs for 1-2 minutes to warm up, then check chain brake.
2) Oil test against chain guard or similar.
3) Let it idle and check there is no chain creep.
4) Off switch.
5) Chain tension.>>>

1) No way! After a 'cold start' let the machine idle for a minute and give it a few minutes to warm up with gentle cutting before loading the engine.

2) That's fine, but also check fairly regularly there's oil flow, if the bar starts smoking or the chain seems tighter it could be that the oiling hole in the bar is gunked up.

3) Yes, but a wee bit of creep is OK, if the chain brake is used as it should be then it won't be an issue.

4) Yes (if the on/off switch fails during use, put the chain brake on and pull the choke out, the engine will stop soon afterwards.)

5) That's a running check, don't run the chain too tight, it puts unnecessary strain on the drive sprocket, the bar sprocket and the chain itself ( a cause of snapped chains).

Whenever moving around with a running chainsaw the brake must ALWAYS be applied, don't listen to anyone that says otherwise, you're right Hoverfrog, and you also point out there is a right and wrong way to apply the brake.

 

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[quote]You should be buying protective tousers, boots and head/ear/eye protection before you buy the saw though, don't even think about using one without the gear on.[/quote]

                                    [img]http://www.completefrance.com/cs/users/avatar.aspx?userid=95092[/img]

Ummmmmm

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For crying out loud Louise. How am I supposed to see wotz in that pikture with my old eyes! It's like me likkle box on this forum. I think it's a build up against us elderly persons of encroaching age? Done deliberate like to make us feel old.

No comments from you either young whipersnapper Head!!!
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[quote user="Jonzjob"]For crying out loud Louise. How am I supposed to see wotz in that pikture with my old eyes! It's like me likkle box on this forum. I think it's a build up against us elderly persons of encroaching age? Done deliberate like to make us feel old.

No comments from you either young whipersnapper Head!!![/quote]

Maybe you can have your own section John........for the elderly......with special LARGE letters. [kiss]

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It's OK for you but I can't do large letters in me likkle box!. Me eyes are OK it's just that me arms are tooo short. Anyway Dick would be in there too, not just me and what about JJ pert etra?

Twinks, me 'earin is good and I don't believe you, so there !!! Rubbish singer, huh!
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Sorry John forgot about your little box problem.

Why aren't you using firefox.....hummmm

Chainsaws.....oh pants it's a bit gone of topic. Mr H's fault for changing into a Chippendale.

(To be honest i'd rather the lune you had before Chris,,,,this guy is toooooo darn cheesy!)

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well my neighbour came round this evening to 'bop' a couple of my rabbits for me (I'm a wuss) and was somewhat surprised to see me arrive home with a handbag on the shoulder and carrying a large chainsaw with associated paraphenalia! Apparently not what one sees every day :)

Chris - I can engage the chain break with a flick of the wrist, but is it acceptable to release it by taking a hand off the saw? Can't see any other way of doing it.

With chainsaws, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing... the OH tried to adjust the running of a friend's small husky, since which she has been unable to start it. I got it started, and the chain didn't creep it went full speed in idle!! I decided that as it wasn't a Stihl and I didn't have the manual I'm taking it to my friend at the shop, as running like that it will kill itself or me before I have a chance to sort it!

So glad I had the helmet on today, as I managed to drop a small branch on my head :( -glad the chain break was working too - as it engaged and I emerged with just a red face!
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Apply the brake with the back of the left wrist while the hand is still on the top handle of the saw and take it off with the left thumb hooked around the handle, only ever have the chain brake off if you are cutting, as soon as the bar is out of the timber...brake on, every time.

Some of the small saws don't have high and low carb adjust, just the idle control, another reason not to buy a cheapo.

Glad you didn't get your skull craked open Hoverfrog! Another slight worry is the plastic mesh you often find in visors. I always make sure my visors are the metal type, I've got a visor that was split by an offcut (OK I was carving) that I'm sure would have been more serious had it been made from plastic.

Keep them chips a flyin' !

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