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Buying a chainsaw


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Having missed the "promo offers" last year, its now time to buy myself a chain saw - but eternal questions about which model. Decided a Huaqvarna one, but selecting model is difficult. Not worried about the "easy start" thing but main question is the chain tension adjustment. Cheaper model needs spanner and screwdriver to adjust chain tension whilst more expensive model has knobs (no tools). Difference in price is 90€. True that the more expensive model has other things (e.g. "easy start", 1.9 kW rather than 1.7kW, etc.) but for me the main thing seems to be the chain tension adjustment.

How often does one end-up adjusting the chain tension so would the model not requiring tools be a great benefit ?

(Mainly cutting Ash, and similar softer wood. Oak and harder trees less often. Also, its to cut trees for firewood so not vast use).

Many thanks

Ian
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Ian I'd heartily reccommend that you don't buy the bottom end Husky, the bottom end Stihl are superior, in my opinion. Forget all the fancy pancy quick chain adjusters too, they're just gimmicky and targeted at folk who haven't the first clue about saws. I'll post about chain tension later, guests have just arrived halfway through typing.
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I sort of chose Husqvana over Stihl as (at the bottom end) you seem to get more for your euro with Husqvana (slightly more power and slightly longer chain guide for slightly lower cost). All are slightly and both seemed reputable makes.

As its only occasional use (far from pro) I was going for lower end as it gets harder to justify something bigger. Was thinking about a one handed one (e.g. Hu 224T or Stihl192T) but then decided that whilst more useful, both are smaller and less powerful than their cheaper traditional models, plus I do not really have the experience to be waving a chain saw around at the top of a ladder.

Ian
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Ian the top handled saws really are only for pro use, in UK you can't buy them without being qualified to use them, they're for climbers who attach them to a harness, using a saw up a ladder is a no no.

I don't know what your budget is Ian but the Husky 345xp with a 38cm bar is a fantastic little saw, fast and punchy. But the saw is only for occasional use, any of the lower end Stihl are great little saws. If time isn't important and you're not felling larger trees then why spend on powerful saws? Don't forget that if you want to put a longer bar on a saw you'll lose cutting power through the chain so you'll have to compensate with more engine power. In reality what size log will you be cutting? The 365 is more saw than it seems you're looking for Ian.

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Size of tree is difficult to say. I planted three quarters of a hectare with 160 trees last winter to provide wood for heating - but they will take a bit of time to grow (I'm planning ahead). With those, I will have control over what size they are when cut. However, in the mean time I have a hectare or so that is pretty full of self set trees (mainly ash but a few others as well). These have had quite a few years to grow and some are pretty large. I can limit myself cutting only the smaller ones and get somebody in if the larger ones need doing. So I would say,maybe a max diam of 30 cm (or so) - without going out there and measuring them. I need to get some of the dead ones that are overhanging the river down fairly soon as they are upstream of the mill and would probably not make it through the house.

Idea is to start cutting to 1m lengths this autumn so they can start drying. Then to probably use the chain saw to cut them down to burning log size. Did about 3 days work cutting long by hand this Oct (though spread out over a bit longer as I was pretty dead after 4 hrs at it) and a chain saw would have made life a lot easier (but the work probably did me good).

I don't have a "budget" as such. I tend to try to buy something that will last, can be maintained, etc. Always consider the brico "own brand" type of thing might be OK for occasional use but when you need a new part in 3 years time - forget it (time to buy a new one). Hence having a preference for Husqvana or Stihl. Have not got loads of money to buy some OTT macho thing and had been considering the 136 to 143 (but am open to advice as this is not something I know too much about - though am aware of how dangerous these things can be).

Ian
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Stihl every time :)

I now have two, as the little 210 wasn't 'man' enough for oak firewood.

The lovely man at the local Stihl shop even carried the 'beast' (as we call it) out to the car for me... who said chivalry was dead! :)

I recommend getting a proper wood saw for cutting the 1metre lengths into fire-sized bits - it's very hard on both the OH and the chainsaw otherwise!
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Ok Ian, Stihl...Ms240 or Ms 260, perhaps more if your budget allows, Husky 339xp or 345xp...the latter being a fantastic little saw, I think Euro price might be around 500. They're the two in the middle. If you can run to more then there's some great saws around nowadays!

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01108.jpg[/IMG]

You should be buying protective tousers, boots and head/ear/eye protection before you buy the saw though, don't even think about using one without the gear on. Saws don't give you a nice clean, gentle cut like a knife does, they rake flesh out and smash bone, the injuries are traumatic and difficult to repair. You should also learn about basic maintenance and cutting techniques, there's alot more to it than just firing up Ian.

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Already got the boots and headgear (got them ages ago when I started clearing the fields with a strimmer). Proper Stihl hard hard, ear defenders and face mask thing as a single unit (actually I have two as the ear defenders were uncomfortable on the first which makes a big difference when out strimming all day (except for the 2 hr lunch break)).

The place I buy this stuff from is a pretty large specialist shop that sells loads of Sthil, Husqvarna, and other similar quality makes). Whenever you buy something from them they take you into their workshop and give you a short training course on using it (when I got my Shihl strimmer I spent over half an hour there and that was just for a strimmer !) Not just the "pick it off the shelf and queue at the check-out". The time they spend going through it is not enough to be a full safety course but for other stuff I've got has been pretty useful. Might not be as cheap as a brico but the service the stuff and whenever I've needed a spare part I've gone in and they have it immediately in stock (last time the bit I needed was the first time they had ever sold that part).

MS240 a bit pricey (600€ in the autumn offers catalogue). Similarly, MS260 up at 670€ which would be hard for me to justify for the occasional use.

However, principles seem that the things like "easy start", "easy tension adjustment", "quarter turn oil reservoir opening cap", etc. are really just silly things to help them push the price up a bit and that I'm better going "basic and functional".

Many thanks

Ian
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[quote user="Chris Head"]

You should be buying protective tousers, boots and head/ear/eye protection before you buy the saw though, don't even think about using one without the gear on.

[/quote]

Himself doesn't wear proper trousers! Should i give him a slapping and buy him some?? I'm not liking the rake flesh out and smash bone description, it's made me feel sick. What are they made of??

Louise

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So I take it you have class one or two chainsaw boots Ian? You're a little elusive! What about the protective trousers? Boots and trousers cost me about 300euro a time, I wouldn't contemplate using a saw without them. I'm a chainsaw expert. I've seen the cuts and been present on a few occasions when they've happened. Don't waffle Ian, buy the proper gear, then worry about what saw you want to run.
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It is interesting that you say the MS 210 was not man enough for Oak firewood as its 1.6 kW and the lower end one I was thinking about was 1.7 kW, so maybe I'll go a bit more powerful.

Not got the trousers nor gloves but got some of the Sthil boot things (mainly 'cos my experience of French safety boots is that they last no time before splitting, plus when strimming they fill with bits of bramble - which is very uncomfortable). The Stihl ones have a top you can tie closed and, even though a bit heavier than standard safety boots, do not fill up and a bit of extra weight is not an issue when strimming. No idea what class they are though (they are reinforced quite a long way up the front and sides).

I actually want to get the stuff I need at the same time. Little choice about safety stuff - its the saw where there is a greater choice. No point in going to buy the seat belts for a car, then going back to chose the car to use them in - its just more trips to the shop.

Sorry if you don't like my plans to purchase it at the same time, but that's what I'm going to do. I had hoped this thread would not go the way many requests for info about chain saws go. I'll ask at the shop then.

Ian
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Ian

I am not a chainsaw expert... but I am very happy with my husqvarna - a 142e model it does the job very well. I use it for the same stuff as you seem to be proposing - felling smallish trees, chopping them up and cutting oak(mainly) firewood. No problem.

I chose this over the similar price stihls because it just felt a bit sturdier.

Don't worry about the chain adjustment - it needs doing occasionally but is quite quick and easy. it cost me around 329 euros if I remember right.

Danny

Danny
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The 142 was one of those I was considering. Seems to have a few additional points over the 136/137 but still be a reasonable price. From comparing in the catalogues seems that with the Husq models (in this price band) you get a bit more power, bit more chain guide length, etc. for a slightly lower cost.

Many thanks for the comment.

Ian
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Ian, you're trying to quantify miniscule differences in the diy end of chainsaws, they're all much of a muchness in the class you're looking at, but some are much better than others. I'm a little concerned that you've ignored basic stuff on open forum, like the correct safety clothing and basic crosscutting and maintenance techniques, they might just save you alot of anguish if you make a mistake?

<<< I had hoped this thread would not go the way many requests for info about chain saws go.>>

What did that mean Ian?

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It meant that I was asking about features of chainsaws. Of course anybody can post what they like but its a bit off to assume everybody is incompetent when it comes to things like safety considerations. What often happens with threads about chainsaw info is somebody asks about something then others start going on about how stupid they are for ignoring safety issues - when in fact they have not ignored them but were asking about something different. In my question there were loads of things I have ignored because what I was asking was thoughts on what chain saw, not what safety trousers, not what safety boots, not comments about maintenance.

Maybe you actually summed-up my question when you say "they are all much of a muchness but some are much better than others" - what I was asking is for comments about which ones were much better than others (but only a couple of people have managed to help in that regard and many thanks to them).

Chris, how do you work out I'm ignoring all these things. Just because I did not ask about them does not mean I am ignoring them, just that I was asking about chainsaw models. You cannot assume everybody is an idiot when it comes to safety.

Look at it this way, I am concerned you are ignoring basic safety checks and maintenance on your car, putting yourself and others at risk because I have not seen you ask about these things on the open forum.

For your info, I have actually been using power tools (both workshop and outdoor ones) for many years. That is not to say I know it all (as I certainly do not), but at the same time credit me with a little common sense when it comes to such matters.

Ian
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<<but at the same time credit me with a little common sense when it comes to such matters>>

Ian, how can I credit you with common sense with such a potentially lethal tool when you clearly don't have much of a clue? You're more worried about a few grams of weight and if an extra tenth of a kilowatt could push another two centimetres of chain, and that extra bit of kilowatt for ten euros over and above the other one has just got to be the saw to buy! What about torque...ease of service and maintenance, oil adjust? I find the whole thing cringeworthy. To be honest, anybody who hasn't even got the first clue about the machines, as you clearly don't have, should be demonstrating just a little less argument and a lot more questions. I see the same old 'I've been using power tools all my life' type argument coming up, but you've not even got the first clue about chain tension, sharpening, daily/weekly maintenance, safety clothing....jeeeeezzz.

Start again if you like Ian, that's cool with me.

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Chris, many thanks for not answering my query and many thanks for such nice "complementary" thoughts (the "you clearly don't have much of a clue").

The question was quite reasonable and others have managed to offer helpful suggestions (e.g. "MS210 was not powerful enough" and "142e was great").

For example, the chain saw I have at the moment needs a spanner and screwdriver to adjust chain tension and it is a real pain. I have no experience of these "easy adjust things" and was wondering if they work or not. This does not mean "I don't have a clue about tensioning the chain" (as I've been doing it on my existing one for some time without any great problems - just a fiddle). Reasonable question (I thought). Service - well the shop does that and they have a fixed fee so it makes no difference to me - despite the fact that you think I should. There are just so many things you do not know about my circumstances that to leap and decide "I do not have a clue" is just bl**dy insulting.

I'm afraid you are not the only person in the world with "a clue" and I actually find you attitude very insulting. You know nothing about me, my experience nor my capabilities but because I ask a question looking for advice jump to the conclusion I'm ignoring loads of other issues and "don't have a clue". Quite an "attitude really.

You don't half pick and chose bits to "extract". You extracted the "I see the same old 'I've been using power tools all my life' type argument coming up" yet ignored the bit I wrote "That is not to say I know it all (as I certainly do not)".

Thanks, but given your attitude I am not interested in your advice, and thanks to the others for their helpful comments.

Ian
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it saddens me to see how many threads on forums like these turn into personal arguments.

It has to be remembered that these are public forums, and it is not just the original poster who will read/take advice from the responses, and not always in context.

I therefore think that some mention of safety is never out of context in any discussion about chainsaws.

For many people moving to France it is the first time they have ever considered buying a chainsaw, and it would be very irresponsible for those that know about these things not to stress the safety considerations at all times.

Ian - there have been lots of helpful comments throughout the thread, the most technical/potentially useful coming from Chris near the start!

Personally, from reading posts / looking at people's websites / etc I think it is clear that Chris knows a darn site more than most about chainsaws...

and never piss off the (wo)man with the chainsaw :) :)
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I agree. However, Chris' comments were being specifically directed at me. Despite my comments about the fact that I was taking safety considerations, he totally ignored this, seemed to assume I was taking no safety measures and continued to direct comments at me. I cannot help but assume something is directed at me when the paragraph starts "Ian, how can I credit you with common sense with such a potentially lethal tool when you clearly don't have much of a clue?".

Notice how when somebody said how they husband was CURRENTLY using a chainsaw without safety trousers, this was totally ignored, instead demands being made about whether I have Class 1 or Class 2 safety boots (they were Stihl safety boots for use with chain saws and I cannot bother to go and look at them just to satisfy somebody else's demands). As a couple of people who PM'd me said (with helpful advice as well) I'm being picked on here.

People can post what they like, but when asking a question one cannot write war and peace about ones experience and background. Fine, all in favour of general safety advice, but just insulting assumptions and comments based on lack of knowledge are "out of order".

Notice how when somebody said how they husband was CURRENTLY using a chainsaw without safety trousers, this was totally ignored, instead demands being made about whether I have Class 1 or Class 2 safety boots (they were Stihl safety boots for use with chain saws and I cannot bother to go and look at them just to satisfy somebody else's demands). As a couple of people who PM'd me said (with helpful advice as well) I'm being picked on here.

People can post what they like, but when asking a question one cannot write war and peace about ones experience and background. Fine, all in favour of general safety advice, but just insulting assumptions and comments based on lack of knowledge are "out of order".

Ian

(thanks Dick - I edited it and must have messed-up so I've removed the duplicated bit)
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Yeah but it sounds better in stereo. Blimey that was a read and a half!

I stick to what I said originally, the bottom end Stihls are superior to the bottom end Huskys. I understand it's a bitter pill to swallow to buy good quality protective equipment, (forget the gloves, they're not really necessary) especially when it may well cost you more than the saw, but if you're a new or inexperienced user then the chances of injury are greatly multiplied.

Unfortunately the subject of chainsaws always seem to go this way as Ian has pointed out, (I guess it's a boys & their toys thing) but they have to when somebody can potentially go and buy a powerful machine off the shelf one minute, put their jeans and steel toecaps on the next and chop into themselves a few minutes later. Check out the injury stats and see where the most common cuts are....most of which wouldn't have happened but for a wee bit of preventative education. I guess I've got the saw anorak label now?

Where's poolguy when you need him?

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No fair. I'm not allowed anywhere near the chainsaw!

Chris i understand why you are so passionate about safety on this issue.

Could you not write a new topic all about safety equipment for chainsaws. Then when someone posts a specific/ technical question you can answer that as well as giving the link to your previous safety guide. I think it would be an important bit of info to have on here as so many folk who come over  go out and buy a chainsaw.

And play nicely you lot!

Louise

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