Winterising (oh no, not again)

[londoneye]

First time (slighly panicky) pool owner in Haute Vienne.   Temperatures can go to -10 (at least if last year is anything to go by).   Have WaterAir liner pool, installed this year.   Ok, thats the detail.   Having been reading (mostly Poolguy's) posts regarding 'winterising' procedure, so think I can work out what to do when time comes (hopefully not for a couple of months yet).

WaterAir maintenance guide advises active (ie continue filtration and chemical usage/choc depending on temperature) as opposed to total winterising (ie no filtering, no chemicals).      Clearly the total winterising option is going to cost less - no leccie, no chemicals to speak of, so it is tempting.   However, at some point in brochure it also talkes of liners floating away from side of pool during total winterising if water table level is high.    I don't know if the water table level is high here, I would guess it is (it certainly seems to have rained non-stop pretty much for 9 months!).   Also, because pool is new, manual seems to infer chances of the liner floating away from side will be higher if water gets into the pocket of earth around pool which has presumably not stabilised yet.

I don't want (of course) a floating liner ....

Was wondering whether it might be best to go for active winterising this year, and then move onto total winterising next year.    Which method do most people use ?    Has anyone encountered any particular problems with total winterising ?

 

[Mikey]

i have a waterair pool, i do the active option. and when i know the temperature is going to freeze i increase the filtration times, ie at night i would have the pump run on for 15mins off for 30  say from about midnight onwards.

with liner pools you should never empty them anyway, if you do the liner will try to go back to its original shape and rip from the drain and jets and skimmer, remember they are stretch fitted.

as for floating pools, i installed a drain all around the bottom outside of my pool that leads into asump, so if water table rises it goes in asump and gets pumped out.

 

[londoneye]

Thanks Mikey.   Been re-reading all the info, and think we will also go for this option.

Can you help on a couple of points I have picked up.

The information says below -10 air temperature continuous filtration makes it possible to circulate water even if the ice is 10-30cm thick on top.   I don't really understand this because if the ice is that thick then the skimmer will be frozen up won't it ?    Have I missed something, because I understood that with the active option there was no requirement to put bungs etc in the skimmer opening.    Also, is your pool house heated, and doesn't the water in the pump/filter freeze ?   

Finally, chemicals and checking.    Do you just use chlor choc after the water temperature is below 8c as required?   If so, do you use stabilised or non-stabilised? 

And finally (ok I sneaked one more in), we have a winter security cover which we will fit in due course.   How often do you undo the cover in winter and take a peek at the water to check all is ok.    And how do you know when it isn't (sorry sounds like a daft question ).

[Mikey]

To winterise mine I just follow the waterair directions. ie reduce filtering time depending on water temp, I add the chlor tablets and liquid when 90% of the tablet has disolved. i don't have a winter cover, once a month i use a net and get out any leaves etc.

i don't use bungs because i don't fully winterise. come December when it gets colder and there is more chance of freezing i run the filtration say from midnight on for 15min off for 15 until about 8am, that way the water can't freeze as its moving.

the building the pump etc is in isn't insulated, but i put an old quilt over the filter and wrap another around the pipes.

i've been doing this since  i've had the pool without any problems.

good luck

[londoneye]

Thanks Mikey.