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Block and liner pool

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My new block and liner pool will be built over the summer. My builder (english) says he can easily provide me with a block/concrete Roman End step which we can cover with pool quality mosaic glass/ceramic non slip tiles.

How does one cut the liner to expose the step unit? Is there some sort of gasket (the sort similarly used when fitting a glass fibre step unit) that can be cut to fit the gap?Clearly the liner needs to be sealed around the step unit. Any suggetions?

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Due to the outrageous costs of employing a swimming pool specialist I am using a friend who has limited experience of building pools and fitting a new liner.He normally builds houses! The methodology of this kind of pool does not need a specialist (it is designed for DIY construction anyway) so a bit more info would be helpful.
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Sadly Sophie, the outrageous cost is not due to the pool builders/specialist but due to Mn Sarkozy and friends with the tax & cotisation charges levied. It is an industry which has seen many a good company go down in the last couple of years leaving the unfortunate customers either stranded or looking to purchase a poor quality pool made by the cheapest method for manufacture at the expense of easy pool care. Sadly we judge "successful" companies by their numerous franchisees and fancy re-branded goods and not by the attention to detail spent on the item purchased. fortunately I turned tail and ran as the recession hit so I am still around to assist.

The reinforced concrete block is not a DIY kit per say, it's the most logical solution to a problem that has become common place because it works better and provides an easy solution to boot. If possible have your builder apply a damp proof membrane to the outside of the block construction before back filling, expanded polystyrene does absorb water over a period of time (it's only spheres stuck together after all) it's another small cost but will extend the life of your pool. It is done on all ICF building basements for a very good reason.

You need to purchase a roman end gasket set or have the liner made to fit over the steps (very careful measuring required) Box shifting companies would normally supply it with the steps (GRP) but it can be purchased separately. Out of interest who did you by your pool from?


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Just to clarify matters this is not a reinforced concrete construction but one that uses 7 newton 10x20x50 solid concrete blocks laid flat with a pea grit backfill between the pool and the earth sides of the hole.

There are loads of companies that sell the block and liner kit (just do a google search) which actually means they supply all the pipework, liner, fittings, valves and a filter and pump for around £2200 in the UK. I have seen similar kits available on French websites as well. Pool sixe is 28' x 14' x 4' deep.

The method was quietly recommended to me by a well respected pool installer close to where I live in the UK who recommended the Vycon construction. I say quietly as he admitted that there is sometimes an attempt to blind customers with frightening figures when for that size of pool all that is needed is someone who can competently build a 4' redered wall and provide a screed flat floor.

Not exactly rocket science then but fitting the liner seems to be a bit more tricky (but not beyond reach!) hence my question.

The step gasket is the right solution but I assume that one needs to buy one from a fibre glass step manufacturer.

Any suggestions?

I have to supply the labour and all building materials
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Ok, starting to get the full picture now, personally I would still finish the Vycon design with a reinforced concrete top course as the temperature drops very low ice can form and burst out the top layer of blocks. Yes the ice should move upwards but if you get the usual initial freeze followed as it was last year with two weeks of sub zero in our region the ice can cause sideways expansion and the top course is vulnerable.  Are you using the full Certikin kit [6] I noted that the plumbing was spec's at 1.5" personally I use 63mm from the skimmer to the pump and 50mm for the returns (depending on the length of the runs) this reduces my running pressure (on filtration) to just over 0.5bar (6psi) so my 0.75hp pump is only using 223watts. It also gives me a good water turnover rate which is something the standard Certikin HD100 cannot manage.

Personally the polly block negates the need to render and keeps the water a couple of degrees warmer and is quicker to assemble.

A good pool shop should be able to supply you the step liner kit, it includes a self adhesive gasket a screwed on ABS plastic extruded section and a trim to fit over the top to hide the screws.  PM me if you get stuck for it and I will see what I can do.

Hope you have some pictures [:)]

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