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What is that stuff called ???


alittlebitfrench
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I need to change the front discs and brake pads on my Saab 900 classic. I have everything I need except for.......

I explain.

I watched a you tube video and it looks dead easy....I think.

When the bloke reinserted the bolts/ screws that hold everything in place he painted the thread with something. It is a reddy/ gold colour that i guess prevent the screws/bolts from seizing.

Does anybody know what it is called in French or English.

Many thanks in advance.
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pate anti grippant.

Its quite often aluminium based here in France for some reason, and not realy as good as proper copperslip.

Also, you might need the exact opposite....threadlock....for some of the bolts...usually the caliper carrier mounting bolts that screw into the hub. Its called frein filet here and its so expensive it makes my pi55 boil.
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Following on from what Dave said, I have never seen anything recommended for the mounting bolts except thread lock. Certainly not an antiseize grease.

In fact it is usually recommended to replace the bolts, some of which, when new, have a coating of thread lock on them. Others are stretched during installation and should never be re-used.

You-tube is not a good source of information for the unskilled who cannot distinguish between good and bad advice, especially regarding brakes, as there is too much "information" posted there by incompetents. I suggest you check further on this with someone suitably qualified.

I recently read an account on a forum by someone who had a caliper come loose when one of the bolts fell out. Fortunately the caliper was too big to completely come off or for the pads to fall out, but stayed inside the wheel and damaged it badly.

[url]www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/183459-front-brake-caliper-bolt-fell-out!!!!?highlight=caliper[/url]

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Hi Nomoss

Thanks for the advice. I am happy to learn mechanics and the brakes are the next step. Done quite a bit myself and the car still starts lol.

This is the video if you care to watch. If you want to zip to the important part it is at 3.50 into the video. He does say antiseize !!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoTuW7no3RY

It looks a good video to me. Nice car. I like the colour. LOL
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I wouldn't let him near any car of mine!

1) The car has a bald front tyre which he doesn't seem to notice.

2) The engine is dripping oil all the time he is working. Maybe that should be fixed before he, or the owner, worries about fancy, shiny new brake discs. The old discs and pads don't look worn out.

3) Anti-seize on the disc locating screws is OK. They are quite small and are prone to twist off when removing them if they rust and seize in.

4) I don't think anti-seize grease on the carrier surface is a good idea, it could get onto the pad or disc surface.

5) Air impact wrench should not be used to replace the carrier mounting bolts. They should be replaced and tightened according to the manufacturer's specification, using a torque wrench. Not just given "a good hand tightening".

6) Before pushing the pistons back, the level in the fluid reservoir should be checked, in case it is already full and overflows when fluid is pushed back from the cylinder..

7) Also, the rubber dust seal should be lifted and the piston checked for dirt and corrosion before pushing it back. A dirty or corroded piston surface will damage the rubber seal in the cylinder and cause a leak and brake failure.

8) He does say the caliper retaining bolts should be new, supplied with locking compound on them, but they also should be tightened to the specified torque. The old ones can be used, but as Dave mentioned, Loctite is expensive and may cost more than new bolts, especially if bought for just one job.

Personally I put the correct Loctite on the old bolts and re-use them, as I have several grades of Loctite in stock.

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[quote user="Gardian"]Assomption tomorrow!

Yet another bloody jour ferie.[/quote]

Our only problem with Assumption is that it is celebrated here by a very noisy open air music (noise) festival in the playing field in the middle of town, about 200 yards from us.

This happens every year, but this year there is also a funfair which competes to make more noise. It all started on Friday evening with fireworks and continued until 2 a.m. each night until the last.

We assume they are very religious in these parts.

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All of my road and race vehicles since 1995 have had those sliding calipers and the original bolts that screw into the tubular sliding sleeves were once factory coated with loctite, they dont come loose without threadlock (in my experience) as I have changed the pads or removed calipers scores of times, maybe into the hundreds with the race cars and never once replaced the bolts or used loctite, for the VW vehicle whose caliper swung away the mechanic can not have tightened the bolt, probably disturbed mid job and when he returned thought that it had been tightened.

 

Yet another reason to DIY, as long as you dont have family or the phone ringing with customers to disturb you then you are less likely to make such an error plus you will be very safety conscious on your own vehicle.

 

I didnt watch the whole video just sped through until I saw the 2 spanners in use and confirmed it was the caliper type I expected.

 

When that caliper type first came out replacement pads used to come with new pre-coated bolts, they soon dropped that idea as the meccanos never used them, look in any mechanics box of spare bolts and you will find scores of blue threadlock dry coated M8 x 25 lg setscrews [:D]

 

Solid mounted calipers should always have some means of preventing the mounting bolts coming loose, usually a spring washer but might be loctite, equally the fixed part of that sliding caliper system will be fitted to the stub axle using fasteners with spring washers or loctite.

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This discussion, erudite and fascinating, confirms my belief that certain jobs I will never do. Though, a mechanic did once leave my car with bits of the brake unattached, so I drove towards Calais from Liege with full family only to have the brakes fall off just after Dunkirk.

We drove back to Liege very very slowly.

Boy did that mechanic get a bollocking!
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[quote user="Jonzjob"]Ah Mint, but that is only an assumption init [:-))]

For a secular country they don't arf have a load of catholique holidaze don't they [Www]

[/quote]

But, Jonz, that is the best of pick-n-mix religious observance, isn't it?

Have the holiday but don't worry about the going to church or fasting or denying yourself anything or other prescribed practices.

I reckon the French have religion sussed[:D]

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[quote user="Chancer"]When that caliper type first came out replacement pads used to come with new pre-coated bolts, they soon dropped that idea as the meccanos never used them, look in any mechanics box of spare bolts and you will find scores of blue threadlock dry coated M8 x 25 lg setscrews [:D]

[/quote]

Perhaps pre-coated bolts are no longer used for the guide pin bolts because of design changes.

For my vehicles, which all have these, I use new ones if they come with the new pads, or re-use the old ones with Loctite. I certainly don't replace them dry or with any lubricant.

I rely on my brakes and don't agree with ignoring a cheap and simple precaution simply because someone tells me that car mechanics don't do it.

[quote user="Chancer"]Solid mounted calipers should always have some means of preventing the mounting bolts coming loose, usually a spring washer but might be loctite, equally the fixed part of that sliding caliper system will be fitted to the stub axle using fasteners with spring washers or loctite.[/quote]

All bolts which hold the caliper assembly to the strut should be tightened to the specified torque, whether they have spring washers (which should be renewed) or other means of locking, especially those which have "stretch" bolts ( which also should be renewed) requiring a further specified fraction of a turn after tightening to the specified torque.

Incidentally, on cars with ABS systems, to prevent small particles in the wheel cylinder contents reaching the ABS unit components, the fluid should not be allowed to return to the master cylinder reservoir when retracting the pistons.

It should be discarded by opening the bleed nipple and draining fluid into a container as the piston is very slowly pushed back. Some sources suggest clamping the flexible hose to block any return when doing this, but I believe this causes damage to the hoses, especially Teflon ones.

The battery should also be disconnected to avoid the ABS electric pump running inadvertently, and the brake fluid topped up as necessary before reconnecting it.

Care should also be taken with the ABS components mounted on or near the discs, such as the toothed wheel, sensor, and wiring.

Some cars have different pads for mounting on the outside and inside of the disc, especially for the front, to prevent brake squeal.. These are identified by various methods, such as an arrow on one pad, which might not seem significant without any instructions.

It is not really a good idea to work on any reasonably modern car without proper understanding and a good service and repair manual. There was a sad post on a website recently where a budding DIYer had his wife spin the engine with the starter motor when he had the timing belt removed. It cost him a new engine, but at least he's learning from experience[:)]

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I cannot disagree with anything that you say Nomoss and when dealing with the unskilled/inexperienced like ALBOF its all the more important to give the correct advice, what I do is as a result of familiarity and experience, its on my own brakes so any learning from experience will be my own.

 

I'm sure there are many things in your own demain where you have chosen to stray from the official path for several décades without ill effect.

 

There is another benefit for me in not using threadlock in this particular instance undoing the bolts that have been threadlocked takes maybe 5 minutes each because the head can only be turned one flat at a time due to the restricted access, without it one or two swings to break the hold and I can remove the bolts with two fingers, times 4 bolts for a pad change and there is not enough time between practice sessions on a circuit to do so.

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What do you mean 'unskilled' Chancer ? Lol

I might not have done metal work at school but ALBOF can lend his hand to anything. I have the scars to prove it !!!

Have already done the exhaust, the water pump, oil and filter change, thermostat (I broke the bolt on that one....oops), all plugs and ignition leads. fuel filter, windscreen wipers (they are not so hard). Clean the thingy....can't remember what it is called but makes the car run better.....and it certainly does work by cleaning that thingy thing. Replaced a few pipes.

ALBF (without the O) is a highly trained mechanic. My car purrrrs.

I am so qualified I could become an AE mechanic in Eymet. !!! Thankyou.
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[quote user="Brit in Bretagne"]I know it's probably not macho enough for most of the testosterone fuelled posters on here but I use professionals for everything concerned with the tyres and brakes on my vehicles. It my cost more but it's my money and, in my opinion, money well spent.[/quote]

Yes always better to judge for yourself. Some possess only the abilities to arrange figures in columns. Others are great at telling people what to do. Your own abilities may not run to engineering but testosterone has nothing to do with it, plenty of good estrogen biased engineers out there.
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[quote user="Brit in Bretagne"]I know it's probably not macho enough for most of the testosterone fuelled posters on here but I use professionals for everything concerned with the tyres and brakes on my vehicles. It my cost more but it's my money and, in my opinion, money well spent.[/quote]

Unfortunately I ran out of testosterone several years ago.

I used to enjoy working on cars, but nowadays do so only because I can't afford to pay garages.

I usually only offer advice on non vehicle oriented forums if I think someone might put themself in danger.

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