Flue/Chimney for wood burning stove

[cossie]

We have purchased some Villager wood burning stoves and are now in the process of installing them.  Just after a quick bit of advice really - one of them is fitting into an existing fireplace which has a chimey.  Can someone advice on what, if any, flue sysytem is needed please?  Advice is varying from just dropping down the current length of flexible flue to just fitting a 90 degree piece onto back of the burner and letting it all go straight up the chimney.

Anyone offer any advice please?

Thanks

[Jerac]

This link is to a UK site, but the advice holds good. 

 http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/fitting_a_stove.html

The important factor is the size of the existing chimney. We just fitted a stove with a pipe into an existing chimney of small cross section and all was OK. If the existing chimney is wide then it will be essential to line it with flexible flue. In some cases it is also advised to insulate the flexible flue with a 'duvet' of rockwool.

[mint]

Cossie

If you have bought Villager stoves, why not ask THEM?  Surely they are the people who can tell you how to install them?

[Andy57]

Lots of info here  http://www.hetas.co.uk/public/hetas_and_consumer.html the UK  will almost certainly have different regs to France but there is a lot of good info on the Hetas site.

Ok. ideally you should have a minimum of 100mm either side of the stove and 50mm at the back, this allows the air to circulate around the stove and then around the room. The stove will work more efficiently if it has a lined chimney,

Most villager stoves have a 6 inch outlet, so you will need a 6 inch liner or go upto a 7 inch liner, From the stove you will need a length of black vitreous enamel flue pipe, enough to get you up into the chimney itself, then an adaptor to enable a good fit between the flexi liner and the black flue pipe.

To do the job properly you will also need, a bottom fixing clamp, a top fixing clamp and plate, a cowl to go on the top of the flue to stop the rain running down into the stove, you will also require a registration plate, which is normally made from rock board, an asbestose substitute, the flue pipe goes up throught the reg plate and keeps it all neat and tidy, again ideally the flue liner needs to be insulted by by filling the cavity between the liner and the walls of the existing chimney with vermiculite or rock wool.

If your going to be burning wood it needs to be well seasoned and dry, 20 percent moisture content is the ideal, the logs should also be split as a well seasoned and what appears to be dry log will still have a very high moisture content. Any coal used should be manufactured and not standard household coal as it has to high a tar content.

 

 

 

[Gluestick]

Andy; sorry to disagree.

But since the last thread on this subject I have checked this out  (backfilling the cavity with vermiculite etc), and it seems to be a myth!

http://www.completefrance.com/cs/forums/1033466/ShowPost.aspx

In fact just this Saturday, I checked with a chimney and fire expert of my acquaintance and he confirmed that the latest UK standard is twin-wall flexible stainless steel which has its own insulation, being the outer wall.

Additionally, I believe that this site URL will assist.

http://www.fluesystems.com/liners/info/chimney_liner_components.htm

Quite obviously, there is a difference in regulations (and insurance requirements) between France and the UK, however, the thermo-dynamics of chimney design and maintenance of an optimal draft are identical.

For me, and since I wish to vent a large kitchen extractor into the chimney void once the inox tube is in place, the concept of backfilling the whole cavity was a no no.

The twin wall - or Rockwool Jacket -  do indeed maintain the necessary liner temperature, in order that the draft is optimised.

And rather a lot cheaper and quicker than backfilling a tapering Three metre wide X 500 m.m. cavity over circa 7 metres!

 

[Andy57]

Not a myth http://www.flueandchimney.co.uk/ProductSubCats.asp?CatID=14&SubCatID=37

 

Twin wall flexi liners are indeed insulated, but the recomendation is for insulation in the cavity as well. When you have gone to the expense of fitting a stove and liner would you want to lessen the efficiency of the stove for the minimal cost of a bit of insultation?

That said I have sold many stoves where the customers have not lined the chimney at all and have had many a happy hour sat in front of their wood burner with a glass of red or three.

 

No problem with disagreeing gluestick, just working together to find the best possible solution, Thats' what these forums are for.

 

[Dave&Olive]

hi OK

             time for my little input . most of the sites above are mainly for solid fuel ( coal fired ) heating ,this is  a lot different than burning logs eg temps are different , the soot from coal even smokeless is really acidic and corrosive  coal requires lots of air to burn etc.etc..

 try here http://www.backwoodsman-stoves.co.uk/MAINMENUS/InstallationMenu.html this is a true wood burning guide

 I did work for them for 2 years be it a long time ago , if you read between the lines ,it`s a catch 22 situation, if you have a good chimney stack sized to suit the fire ,you are  lucky !!!

 so back to back fill or not.. if you drop down a SS liner and seal the top and bottom you will have to vent the cavity that's left other wise you will get condensation ,you need to " knock a brick out " at the bottom of the stack and then drill say 4 holes upwards at the top this will vent it ... / [^] \  but this in itself then cools the liner... catch 22 ? so ?? fill it ???

 OK fit a nice new insulated liner ???? @ €120 a metre ???

           it`s all down to money sorry  or make the compromise

  all  the lasts posts are right it`s just the way they have all got round the money v`s compromise

 good luck

        Dave