Silicone sealing around the edge of a bath..

[joidevie]

What is the best way of getting a really nice smooth straight run along silicone sealing around a bath? (with a shower too, so a really good seal is required!)  I have a steel white bath and painstakingly layed 10cm tavertine (sandstone) tiles.. I've left a perfect 4-5mm gap but I would hate to ruin the whole thing with a badly done "run your finger along it..." type of finish..  My instict is to find a solvent to soak a rag in and get a nice glided smooth slide.. ?

The tiles are quite 'rustic' and rugged in texture too, so getting it 'right' is going to be interesting...

Many thanks..

[Bugsy]

Masking tape carefully applied to either side of the join, then use your finger. Remove tape as soon as you can.

Perfect finish assured.

Gary.

[joidevie]

Thanks.... I also just read that wetting your finger with 50/50 water and washing up liquid might be an idea ?

Masking tape will give a 'straight' edge on the bath.. But the "rugged" tiles?

[sheldonrobbo]

hi

whatever you do don't wet your finger....a light spray of furniture polish will achieve a professional finish.....any water contact with uncured silicone causes a premature breakdown of the seal

[Gluestick]

Having become irritated with baths, over time, moving away from the edge, I now tend to lay a small fillet of hard cement mix in a line just beneath the tile edge and "Jack" the bath up to this on the adjustable legs, tight.

Your bead of sealer, with practise, should lay neatly by itself, due to the coordination size of bead and speed of application: the size you cut the orifice to is also critical!

Probably the most infuriating thing is when you finish "pumping" the applicator: and the sealer still comes out!

Depending what type of sealer I'm using, white spirit and similar solvents can provide a nice smooth finish, with no masking and no dramas!

Can............

I started using sealers and gun applicators in the auto bodyshop, circa 37 years ago, when spot welding new wings etc onto cars: this was mainly neoprene, though.

Many rude words were uttered until the correct coordination of orifice-speed was learned.[:-))]

Good luck!

 

[Deimos]

I use masking tape and an old table knife the sort with the rounded end.  The size of the rounded end of the knife determines how big the sealant fill will be.  Position the tape appropriately (tiny bit "smaller" than the knife end will give you).  Then apply a bit more filler than is needed.  Drag the knife along the corner and it gives a constant curve to the sealant, removing the excess and spreading to fill properly.  Dead easy and no skill necessary.

Ian

[f1steveuk]

I was always told to push the gun, not to pull it as well, which seems to work. Anf of course you should always seal a new bath or shower tray with the full weight it will take when used and take the weight out when the RTV has gone off fully.

[Lee&Nik]

there is no best way to do this job, its probably the trickiest job and most anoying!  trial and error and expert advice has lead me to this formular....   fill the bath keeping all the areas to Chaulk dry!!  then with an 45degree cut in the applicator chaulk the join, once applied wet your finger with spit and smooth along the join THEN do the same with finger and spit in the opposite direction which allows all faces, cracks and dimples to make a good contact with the chaulk. allow to dry for about 12 hours then slowly empty the bath.

good luck, and remember practice makes perfect.  

[Gemonimo]

I have always smoothed silicone by dipping my finger in acetone, aka nail polish remover and running it along the joint.

[joidevie]

Crikey, clearly I'm not the only one who has found this an issue! I can feel a cartouche or two of sealant against sone old bits of timber to practice coming along...

White spirit, spit, washing up liquid, nail varnish remover.... Any more?

PS. I like the idea of filling the bath first, makes perfect sense!

[BIG MAC]

You can use tape if you are nervous. Use a smaller cut on the end of the silicone nozzle, it's all a bit feast or fast!

Try to run in the joint in one smooth movement shape roughly with rubber gloved finger wipe excess and  finger clean with ordinary toilet tissue making sure no residue left.

Using a plant spray with washing up liquid at about 90/10 concentration water to washing up liquid, spray the joint with a mist  do same with finger and smooth the joint. on internal angles run the finger past the joint and clean the excess off this will afford a clean corbner when you gun in the next run.

Its all about confidence, I have fitted so many baths in my time I am quite blase about it but why not try perfecting your technique on the internal angles on an old drawer or similar?

Hope this helps.

 

[PaulT]

Do not know if it is available in France but in the UK, I think it is PlasPlug and available from B&Q, there is a tool, well actually 3 that are different sizes that are angled and produce a superb finish.

Never have succeeded with the wet finger no matter what I have wetted my finger with

[Bugsy]

[quote user="BIG MAC"]

You can use tape if you are nervous.

[/quote]

I use tape and I'm never nervous.........................but then again, I'm no plumber  [:D][:D]

[expat paul]

[quote user="P2"]

Do not know if it is available in France but in the UK, I think it is PlasPlug and available from B&Q, there is a tool, well actually 3 that are different sizes that are angled and produce a superb finish.

Never have succeeded with the wet finger no matter what I have wetted my finger with

[/quote]

Yes its available in France, bought mine from Castorama, works very well

[AnOther]

Essential to whatever method you use to smooth down it to avoid applying too much in the first place.

Too much will inevitably end up with you pushing up a mini "wave" in front of whatever you use and it's this which really makes a mess.

If you get it wrong don't try to fix it but wipe it all off and stare again.

It really is a case of practice makes perfect and I only ever use a finger now.

PS: If it will stick Sellotape is better than Masking tape as it is thinner and will leave less of an edge.

[Gemonimo]

If I get it wrong Ernie, a quick look tells me straight away - I don't need to stare!!!!!! Jen

[Gluestick]

Oh dear, Little Ern

Hoist by your own keyboard!

[:D]

[joidevie]

So how do I now address the "bumpy" edge of the tiles ? They're a bit like shuare uneven biscuits grouted with 'cemijoint rustique' - a grainy, sandy type grout....

[AnOther]

Theres no getting away with anything with you lot is there...................[:P]

joidevie, haven't the faintest idea what a "shuare uneven biscuit" is so equally no idea how best to finish off.

Maybe a case of doing the best you can and learning to live with it [8-|]

[Bugsy]

[quote user="joidevie"]So how do I now address the "bumpy" edge of the tiles ? They're a bit like shuare uneven biscuits grouted with 'cemijoint rustique' - a grainy, sandy type grout....
[/quote]

Thats easy...................Go to the 'bumpy tile shop' and ask them for some 'uneven masking tape', 'biscuit grade'.

Make sure that you match the first bump on the tiles to the first bump on the masking tape.

[Www][:)]

[Gluestick]

[quote user="ErnieY"]

Theres no getting away with anything with you lot is there...................[:P]

[/quote]

No, there's (there's, there's, there's) not.[Www]

 

[AnOther]

Well spotted and proves the point [Www]

[Gluestick]

Sorry, Little Ern: I'm having one of those days.................

[:D]

[BIG MAC]

Bumpy tiles will not present a problem as the small bead you are tooling in will likely be not much larger than the grout line which it conceals, flexi finger does the rest!