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chimney construction


beris
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Hi all,

We are installing a new wood burning stove in our Barn renovation, ( we do not have a chimney) the flue pipe will be taken through the external wall, could anyone please inform us of the regs in this case.

Can we have just a pipe with a cowl at the top?

Do we have to construct an external chimney?

If so, does it have to have a liner?

Any advise would be much appreciated

Beris

 

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"Hi all,

We are installing a new wood burning stove in our Barn renovation, ( we do not have a chimney) the flue pipe will be taken through the external wall, could anyone please inform us of the regs in this case.

Can we have just a pipe with a cowl at the top?

Do we have to construct an external chimney?

If so, does it have to have a liner?

Any advise would be much appreciated

Beris"

As Charles has pointed out, horizontal runs of flue pipe are to be avoided.

The absolute maximum for a horizontal run is 15cm - if you are putting your stove in a barn conversion then your walls are probably 50/60cm +. Your stove will not work with this length of horizontal pipe.

If you need to go through through the outside wall then you need to use 45 degree joints and go through the wall at an angle - much more difficult with a thick stone wall.

Better option would be to use double-insulated rigid stainless-steel flue pipe straight up from the stove against the internal wall and out through the roof - expensive but far more efficient.

Take a look at the last pictures on our website under - Property Renovation Services/Charnwood Woodburning Stoves/Some of Our Installations - this was for a stove in a village house and needed four 45 degree bends and a lot of double-insulated rigid stainless-steel flue pipe - but achieved a high performance stove in a difficult location.

The flue pipe and installation cost far more than the stove itself!

Regards,

Bob Clarke

www.legrindouxproperties.com

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hi ok

       I had the same problem myself , like the other replies say 90 `s are a no no and inox twin skin is so expensive , so I built my own internal one with boisseau blocks , keep all block work 150mm from any combustible material and the top must be 1 mtr above the ridge line ,

       have a look here

           http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j311/daveolive/end-room/?start=0

hope it helps

        Dave

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Hi Dave,

I also have a similar problem regarding a new chimney. Did you get the metal bracket supporting the blocks specially made or can you get it 'off the shelf ' at a brico?

Thanks in advance.

Bob

 

 

 

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Hi all

just wanted to say thank you to all who contributed to my question on chimney construction. The information has been great, (yes our walls are 60cm thickness) and we have a horizontal hole through at the moment, looks like we will have to make it a lot larger for the 45degree angle.

Many thanks again

Beris

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hi ok

   and thank you for that . can I just add one thing just try and keep the flue as warm as possible , any cold spots where it goes through the wall  etc .will cause the gases to condense on the pipework and soot up ,this intern will slow down the air flow etc..etc.. Also if you can run a pipe under floor or behind the stud walling to outside this will stop any draughts ,and make sure the top is 1 mtr above the ridge other wise sparks can fall back onto the roof ....!!!!!

        Dave

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Dave

 

I was really interested to look at your photos as it looks identical to what we need to do.My OH has already made the steel bracket to support the blocks again very much similiar to yours.So my question is:

What inner flue pipe did you use within the blockwork and did you use any insulation within the blockwork?

 

Thanks in advance

Jacqui

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