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Curved Walls


Alan Zoff
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I want to divide some internal spaces to create a couple of extra rooms. But instead of the usual straight stud wall approach, I have in mind introducing a couple of curves.

Is anyone able to suggest building materials/methods which are particularly suited to constructing internal walls in this way? They will not be load bearing, of course, but would need to be reasonably sturdy (to hold shelves, pictures, etc) and provide reasonable sound insulation. They will be constructed off suspended floors - currently parquet.

Thanks

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For a typical 100mm wall; you will need 2 formers 70mm wide cut to the radius of your curve.18mm mdf or ply will suffice. These will form the head and sole plate of your wall, you can then screw 70mm studs at 600mm or 400mm centres, depending on your radius, to the head and sole plate. The framework once positioned can then be boarded both sides with 12.5 mm plasterboard. 9mm plasterboard is available if the radius is tight. This framework can be insulated in the normal way.

 

Hope this helps

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Just one thing, If you can, bend the plasterboard along its length eg, along the 2400mm side, fit the plasterboard horizontally

its difficult to bend along the 1200mm side for obvious reasons

 

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You can create head and sole flates out of relief cut MF Channel. Inside of curve may be marked on floor and head then the straight channel cut with shears to allow the correct degree of bend required. make sure as the head and sole will be compromised strength wise that addittional channel is introduced inside to allow rigid fixings (Easy on the floor can be a pain on a ceiling - sometimes easier to create the curve out of a rip of ply screwed to joists then the MF affixed to it). MF Studs go in in the conventional manner then there is special wallboard designed to take a curve, this is identifiable as on the reverse side it has a series of grooves which allows it to bend I believe the material is MDF. I would disguise any joins using lining paper then decorate.  

Hope this helps

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I have also grooved the back of ply and even plasterboard to get a tight radius, often even if the panel wlll bend to your radius the ends will spring flat and some grooves just near the edges can help a lot.

Wetting both surfaces of plasterboard with a plant sprayer 30 minutes beforehand makes curved work easier as well.

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Hi Alan,

I must say I'm not a builder before I start, I have a small used car business.

The architect I used to create some drawings around a 'pigeonaire', I think thats what they call it, a round tower/turret type thing, came up with a round shower. He specified the hollow brick work that you see in 'new builds' in France. The macon I used (French), got on with it without question, please see picture before it was plastered to a finish. The brickwork is 100mm.

Ignore the berk with the cup of tea!

Tried to copy and paste a picture of our curved wall, but it won't work. If you would like to see it then please let me have your email address and I'll send it to you. Unless of course someone knows how to add a picture to a post?

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[quote user="nemltd"]Tried to copy and paste a picture of our curved wall, but it won't work ... Unless of course someone knows how to add a picture to a post?[/quote]

To put a photograph into your post:

  • The photograph must be on your computer.

  • The format should be .jpg

  • Re-size your photograph(s) to a maximum width of 400 pixels.  This ensures that they fit the forum browser window properly.

  • Open a free account at Photobucket.

  • Browse from Photobucket to your photo and choose it.

  • Upload to Photobucket.

  • When the photograph has uploaded it will appear in your album. Underneath there are three addresses.

  • Highlight and copy the one marked Img - make sure you have

    copied the whole address. There should be IMG and /IMG in square 

    brackets at the beginning and end of the address.
  • Paste the address into the appropriate place in your post, and the picture should appear.

You can get a false representation if you simply put in a photo

address without the IMG tags, as your computer finds the photo in its

own innards, whereas other viewers don't have access to that.

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I like the idea of solid walls, nemltd, and originally suspected this would be how I would have to deal with it. But the timber and plasterboard approach is much more within my capabilities, not being a great brickie and an even worse plasterer. I think the stud wall will also be better suited to the timber flooring.

But thanks for the post - and I look forward to seeing the shower pic when you have opened your Photobucket account. (The account is useful to have and easy - even I managed to create one.)

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Thanks Clair and Alan for the info on posting pictures, heres the curved shower wall, and the aformentioned burk with the cup of 'Rosie Lee'!

[IMG]http://i569.photobucket.com/albums/ss138/nemltd/DSCF1048.jpg[/IMG]

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[quote user="Clair"][quote user="nemltd"]Tried to copy and paste a picture of our curved wall, but it won't work ... Unless of course someone knows how to add a picture to a post?[/quote]
To put a photograph into your post:

  • The photograph must be on your computer.

  • The format should be .jpg

  • Re-size your photograph(s) to a maximum width of 400 pixels.  This ensures that they fit the forum browser window properly.

  • Open a free account at Photobucket.

  • Browse from Photobucket to your photo and choose it.

  • Upload to Photobucket.

  • When the photograph has uploaded it will appear in your album. Underneath there are three addresses.

  • Highlight and copy the one marked Img - make sure you have copied the whole address. There should be IMG and /IMG in square  brackets at the beginning and end of the address.

  • Paste the address into the appropriate place in your post, and the picture should appear.

You can get a false representation if you simply put in a photo address without the IMG tags, as your computer finds the photo in its own innards, whereas other viewers don't have access to that.


[/quote]

  hi ok

  Dare I just add ...if you click on the img code it copies it too the note pad   ( just like holding down the ctrl buton and pressing c to copy )

 you can then just click on the page you want to paste it too and do ctrl  v to paste ..... but you all new that

              Dave

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If you don't want to go to all the hassle of cutting curved plywood to form top and bottom plates, use the normal metal rail system, but every 5/10 cms etc, cut through the vertical (on the outside curve) and horizontal surfaces, this will then give a good curve to whatever you want, when it comes time to plasterboard, again on the greatest radius side, use a common or garden spray and damp the surface before leaving to rest for 10 mins or so on blocks in centre.

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[quote user="clarksinfrance"]If you don't want to go to all the hassle of cutting curved plywood to form top and bottom plates, use the normal metal rail system, but every 5/10 cms etc, cut through the vertical (on the outside curve) and horizontal surfaces, this will then give a good curve to whatever you want, when it comes time to plasterboard, again on the greatest radius side, use a common or garden spray and damp the surface before leaving to rest for 10 mins or so on blocks in centre.
[/quote]

Yupp that's nothing like wot I said!.........

"You can create head and sole flates out of relief cut MF Channel. Inside of curve may be marked on floor and head then the straight channel cut with shears to allow the correct degree of bend required. make sure as the head and sole will be compromised strength wise that addittional channel is introduced inside to allow rigid fixings (Easy on the floor can be a pain on a ceiling"

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ide use wedi as it comes in precut ready to bend sheets and is deseigned for waterproof use.... band with special waterproof joints and then a coat of waterproof sealant ready to tile much better than plasterboard all available at gedimat bit more expensive but at least you dont have to worry about it in years to come but what do i know.....mais chacun son truc
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