PaulT Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Need to fit an electric water heater. From a little bit of research (looking on various bricolage websites) it would seem that a safety device is needed in case the thermostat fails. Wondering whether this goes on the input or output side and would be grateful for information on anything else that needs to be fitted. Thanks Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
La Guerriere Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 It's a pressure relief valve aka "group de securite". It's fitted on the inlet side. Note that as the tank heats up, water will come out of the outlet even in normal service.This is what is inside ....http://w4-web125.nordnet.fr/groupe_securite_fr.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lehaut Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 May be stating the obvious, but if its a new installation, you need to allow the water which comes out to drain away somewhere. If this is not possible, I think an air loaded accumulator (red cylinder to absorb the pressure) is available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northender Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 When we had ours fitted the "Groupe de Security" (the safety valve I think OP are refering to ) kept blowing because of the fluctuating mains water pressure.We had to have a pressure reducing/stablising valve fitted on the incoming mains.I think the G de S are designed to blow at around 3.5 bar and our mains pressure would/does fluctuate between 1.5 and 6 bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnOther Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 In the majority of cases you should automatically fit a regulator tokeep your pressure below about 3.5 bar. Even if yours is routinelylower than that there can be no telling when you might get a surgewhich could quite possibly blow a pipe somewhere.The group de security relief valve is typically set for 7 or 7.5 bar, it will say so on it somewhere. For mine, which I recently replaced, I actually plumbed the overflow into the nearby washing machine waste.Can't find the thread at the mo but there is a 2006 regulation which requires a temperature regulator (mitigeur thermostatique) device in the outflow to limit the temperature to 50c to prevent possible scalding. This should be for the overall hot feed to the taps not just for the baloon.[img]http://www.leguideduchauffage.com/photogallery/accessoires/schema-installation-mitigeur-thermostatique-avec-bouclage.JPG[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulT Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Many thanks for all the info - will enable me to have fun next week.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 [quote user="AnOther"]Can't find the thread at the mo but there is a 2006 regulation which requires a temperature regulator (mitigeur thermostatique) device in the outflow to limit the temperature to 50c to prevent possible scalding. This should be for the overall hot feed to the taps not just for the baloon.[/quote]Be helpful if you can Ernst, always been concerned the the temp of the water, didn't want to fit a UK 40 deg one as it may have broken some rule for France. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crossy67 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Great diagram AO, just one question. What is the orange broken line with what looks like the one way valve and two valves in for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnOther Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Actually looking again that may be the wrong diagram as evidently it's some sort of pressure overflow/feedback and right to left it seems to be a ball valve, a pump, and a non return valve.Still hunting for the regulation ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyv Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 It's a circulator pump between two isolating valves. It ensures there's always hot water at the taps, so you don't have to run off water for ages waiting for it to get hot. Energy saving? maybe. a luxury feature, certainly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crossy67 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Damned fine idea. I always get fed up waiting for the hot to arrive and end up washing my hands in cold. We must loose 5-10 litres of hot water that just sits in the pipe after you have shut the tap, not a huge problem if you have just run a bath, maybe 5% wastage but just to wash your hands[:(] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulT Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 [quote user="crossy67"]Damned fine idea. I always get fed up waiting for the hot to arrive and end up washing my hands in cold. We must loose 5-10 litres of hot water that just sits in the pipe after you have shut the tap, not a huge problem if you have just run a bath, maybe 5% wastage but just to wash your hands[:(][/quote]That is the way that non domestic installations are required in the UK, it prevents Legionella. All very fine when taps etc are in constant use. However, how often do you actually use the taps in your house? Just think how much heat will be lost from it just circulating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crossy67 Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 If the pipes were insulated to the same standard as the tank then nothing. There is the cost of running a pump continuously though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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