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Stud spacing ?


Mattyj198
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Are you using wooden studding or metal (rail et montant)? Plasterboard is 1200 mm wide (roughly equivalent to 48 Canadian inches), and stud spacing would normally be 600 mm i.e. two bays per sheet rather than 3 bays at 16 inches. If you are using the metal stuff, it's best to double up the verticals (montants) back to back, otherwise the partition can seem a bit flimsy.

 

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Thanks for your speedy reply.  I was actually posting this for my father.  He is a builder here in Canada so he knows what hes doing he just does not know the code in France.  He prefers to work with wood so I am sure that is what he is using.

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 Hi ok

                Did not know Canadian inches were different from UK ones !!!

  Plaster board is 1200 x 2500 mm  ( almost 8 x 4  ) so you can use 600 centres  or 400 centres same way you would use 24 "  or 16 " centers for 8 x 4  .. I too prefer wood,   chevrons are 63 x 75 mm  ok for stud work  ..here`s mine at 400 mm centres

 [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j311/daveolive/Pdr_0075.jpg[/IMG]

   Dave

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[quote user="La Guerriere"]Nice wall, Dave. That won't be wobbly like some of the minimal rail / montant jobbies.[/quote]

I thought the metal armature doubler walls (with doubled up verticals on 600mm centres) I just put up seemed a bit flimsy.

I squirted three or four short (40 to 60 mm) vertical strips of PU foam between the wall and each vertical. The result is considerably more solid feeling and sounding than it was previously.

The walls are quite unevenly plastered, in places where I couldn't get the PU foam gun in I put a strip of acrylic sealant.

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Thanks Dave,  that's exactly how we plan to do it.  It looks great!  We are just moving a bathroom wall a few feet so its nothing major.

I checked out your site and it turns out your not to far from us.  Our house is in Rom, Deux Sevres!

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I don't understand this "wobbly" comment about rail/montant walls. I've just done the upstairs of our house and there's no wobble or give, and that's with the standard M48 montants (doubled at 60cms). You can go up to 98mm if you want more solidity but I didn't need anything more. The advantage of the steel is that you get everything flat (once you've traced it out), and it's quick, and they don't get eaten by insects.

Each to his own preference I guess. [Www]

 

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[quote user="sid"]

I don't understand this "wobbly" comment about rail/montant walls. I've just done the upstairs of our house and there's no wobble or give, and that's with the standard M48 montants (doubled at 60cms). You can go up to 98mm if you want more solidity but I didn't need anything more. The advantage of the steel is that you get everything flat (once you've traced it out), and it's quick, and they don't get eaten by insects.

Each to his own preference I guess. [Www]

 

[/quote].

Absolutely Sid, we used the rail?montant system to put in a new bedroom in the up stairs of our house, the walls were 12 high so we double clad with plaster board, not a wobble in sight and solid as a rock.

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I only use the montant/rail method with the exception of the communal stairway where I have used wood as it  also has to be structural.

When lining walls it will allways have more deflection as there is only one face of plasterboard, there are adjustable plastic space off thingies available at an extortionate price but I have always done as Dave & Olive does (great minds think alike) and reached for my number one bidouilling tool, the pistolet à mousse, it makes the dry lined wall practically solid.

On partition walls the higher you go the more deflection there will be and hence over 3m IIRC you go up to 70mm montants etc, there are also other schemes for doubling and staggering the montants to make thicker and hence more rigid cloisons, all the info is in the Placoplâtre book which is recommended reading [;-)]

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[quote user="Chancer"]

I only use the montant/rail method with the exception of the communal stairway where I have used wood as it  also has to be structural.

When lining walls it will allways have more deflection as there is only one face of plasterboard, there are adjustable plastic space off thingies available at an extortionate price but I have always done as Dave & Olive does (great minds think alike) and reached for my number one bidouilling tool, the pistolet à mousse, it makes the dry lined wall practically solid.

On partition walls the higher you go the more deflection there will be and hence over 3m IIRC you go up to 70mm montants etc, there are also other schemes for doubling and staggering the montants to make thicker and hence more rigid cloisons, all the info is in the Placoplâtre book which is recommended reading [;-)]

[/quote]

Now I'm getting confused. (Not unusual). Where did Dave & Olive say he/they used mousse?

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When using montant - rail put in a mid rail and use the ' stapling' tool at all intersections . This way a one sided wall can be constructed and if it is for dry lining build it an inch or so off the stud membrane, crimp it then knock it into position before fixing top and bottom. The mid rail and crimping both sides makes it far more robust.
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