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adding a branch to a 100mm waste pipe


Gyn_Paul
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I have uncovered the 100mm waste between the fat trap and the fosse and need to add a branch to it. However, it's concreted into the wall at one end, and buried in the ground at the other - so totally devoid of lateral movement.

In the UK, I would have put a rubber sleeve with two jubilee clips on to function as a straight joint when I'd added the other components, but can't see any equivalent over here.

Is the only option to cut the pipes as short as the depth of the socket (to fit it in) and then slide it back halfway?

paul

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I have one of those rubber sleeves with clips. I bought it at Pum Plastic and used it for a couple of months until I replaced the whole fosse system.

It's sitting in my garage doing nothing if you want it. Cost me around 70€ I think. I'm home for the weekend so I can take a photo of it if you're interested

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[quote user="HoneySuckleDreams"]

I have one of those rubber sleeves with clips. I bought it at Pum Plastic and used it for a couple of months until I replaced the whole fosse system.

It's sitting in my garage doing nothing if you want it. Cost me around 70€ I think. I'm home for the weekend so I can take a photo of it if you're interested

[/quote]

70€ ??  cor.. that's a bit steep for a bit of rubber... I had no idea they were so much.  I think I'll cut a big section out and pour a concrete 'regard' where the three pipes meet instead.  But thanks for the offer.

paul

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[quote user="Lehaut"]Could you not cut a Y 100 in half and glue over a large hole cut in the pipe? Have used "saddles" to get 40 mm into a fixed 100mm without any problem, never seen a 100 mm one though[/quote]

Please excuse me butting in on this thread but I need to speak to lehaut!

Lehaut, could you please look at my thread about DAB/ATM and my (mis)adventures thereon and tell me whether this is a case in which I can do that déclaration du grève that you explained to me previously?  Thanks.

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If there is sufficient room you could use 'slip couplings' or make one out of straight joints by removing the ledge or 'stop' inside. glue a section of pipe inside the top of the branch to create a 'male' to match the 'male' spigot at the other end. Cut a section of pipe out the length of the fitting and slide the slip couplings up the remaining pipe at either end. Offer up the fitting and working quickly apply loads of pipe adhesive cement (You may get light headed lol) to the area the fitting will occupy and slip the joint so that it is half on your new fitting half on the old pipe and the fitting inclined at the required angle. Do the same at the other end et voila! one connection!

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[quote user="BIG MAC"]If there is sufficient room you could use 'slip couplings' or make one out of straight joints by removing the ledge or 'stop' inside. glue a section of pipe inside the top of the branch to create a 'male' to match the 'male' spigot at the other end. Cut a section of pipe out the length of the fitting and slide the slip couplings up the remaining pipe at either end. Offer up the fitting and working quickly apply loads of pipe adhesive cement (You may get light headed lol) to the area the fitting will occupy and slip the joint so that it is half on your new fitting half on the old pipe and the fitting inclined at the required angle. Do the same at the other end et voila! one connection![/quote]

Yes I thought of that - I've even got a coupling without the stops in the middle, my worry is getting sufficient glue under the coupling, not being able to plaster it on both the male and female faces of the joint. And as you say, you've got to be bloody quick!. I've done it with 50mm but never tried it on 100. Trouble is, once I've glued the two 'Y's in place, there's only enough straight pipe left between a 90 degree in one direction, and the concrete face of the fat trap in the other for one attempt.  I didn't realise how lucky I was in the UK with Marley pipe with their forgiving rubber gaskets...

I'll see how brave I feel!

paul

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I have tried this on 125mm and it was not having any of it for the reasons mentioned, too tight a fit and the glue grabbing.

I also find that misalignment occurs even if you have cut into a straight and well supported length of pipe with no tension in it.

I did find a way to overcome all of these problems, you might consider it too much of a bodge for yourselves but I will explain anyway.

I make a slip coupling as you describe by removing the internal tangs and then filing flush with a round file, I then cut a split longitudinally in the coupling.

I fit it over one branch of the joint and retract it back beyond the glue line, I then use  some folding wedges to spring it open as much as I can, I then smother loads of solvent over both sides of the join, slide the coupling over into its final position, remove the wedges and then pull it up tight with tywraps.

When the glue has gone off I then seal the split with sikaflex, I leave the tywraps in place, even without the sealing there is only a tiny hole the size of a match head.

One advantage of this type of coupling is that it can be removed later if need be without damaging the pipes.

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If I want to make an inspection chamber I use a Y branch and then lower a rehausse de regard (bottomless) over it which has had the side walls notched to clear the 3 soil pipes.

I pour concrete over the Y branch to just cover it and then with a small trowel angle up the sides leaving the middle part expose slightly like the hump of a whale above the water.

When its all gone off I use an angle grinder to remove the exposed top part of the Y branch, it makes a very neat clean job and I have some with other pipes discharging vertically above twhat is effectively the funnel and all the solids transit the chamber without backing up.

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I cant compete with him, I havnt managed to tear off my arm yet!

Give it time though [Www]

 

I spent today re-erecting my wooden scaffold de fortune that I made and used in 2008, pity I didnt make as good a job of the ravalement as i did the scaffolding as then I would not be redoing the job, at least with the Forth bridge they got it finished before having to repaint it, I am only half way through my project and already redoing my early work [:(]

[IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff295/jr7man/Houses/CIMG2273.jpg[/IMG]

 

 

I was putting it up again in the order that it evolved last time, the first platform being above the roof of my apartment so not far to fall, just as well as when I stepped on it it collapsed [:-))] The first generation of my home made pitons notlonger  being up to the task, I hope that it will not be repeated on the main gable end especially the hoist fixings, still I weigh a lot less now!

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When I put the first row up on the other gable end someone asked me if it was a balcony [:-))]

Given the inventive constructions around me that have resulted from the ex maires famous comment of "you can build your house from cereal boxes if you want, I dont care, as long as it resembles that on the plans" then a balcony like that would certainly be in keeping.

PS It was an English guy who asked the question!

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[quote user="Chancer"]

When I put the first row up on the other gable end someone asked me if it was a balcony [:-))]

PS It was an English guy who asked the question!

[/quote]

So you had a Englishman, enquiring about your gable end? [:D]

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No he's a decent guy (just in case he is reading) been over here for a long time, French wife,  children, pretty well integrated speaks good French, he is a regional sales manager and has the confidence to get through to CEO's on the phone and to do business with them in French.

So the bell end comment was a real surprise but after seeing what else gose on around here I can understand him thinking it.

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Fair play to your friend if he can transact business with French Co's but to think your structure, although very well made could pass as a balcony is what elicited the comment but more on the word play on "End" more than a serious comment.  Meant no real offence.

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