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Gluestick

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Everything posted by Gluestick

  1. Don't get me wrong, Chris, I totally agree about craft skills and have always improvised. Nothing better than making something as far as possible by hand, where you can. I've spent far more time with metal, though and here, it's important to have the right kit. Difficult to make a screwthread by hand! With wood it's totally different: despite my electric plane - which I rarely use - I do enjoy using one of my old wood planes. I even have my original wooden box plane, bought when I was about 14. The routers and boxes of cutters do come in handy: a few years back, a builder was doing some re-furb work for me and it proved impossible to buy matching architrave. So with a bit of fiddling and using two different router bits we jointly made an exact profile from some prepared wood.  
  2. I seem to think that the big beast is an Erbaur?? Also have a small Bosch which is very handy. I am a mug for "Toys", Chris! Always have been with tools, although I do try and temper the urges to keep it down to things which will actually be used............................................some day! Probably one of the problems is that having spent quite a few years, previously, building up a very well equipped workshop and machine shop, one becomes used to be able to do nearly everything in-house. I am currently fantasizing about a Mylford ML7 or similar.[blink] Luckily Mrs G is not reading this!  
  3. Cheated a bit here, Cassis. One of my UK clients runs a big glazing biz and make all the DG units themselves. Mine were circa 1 m high by .5 m wide X 2 per frame. (They are casement doubles). They are in one piece and have the wood moulding fitted on the outside to make them look like six small squares. I bring over two each time. B****Y heavy, as well! I love routing, too! One of these days I'll get to use the multitude of cutters I seem to keep buying![:D]    
  4. [quote user="Chris Head"] I'll just bet your cutters love that old Oak! [/quote] Sadly, Chris, it isn't oak - wish it were! Some form of very close-grained hardwood, might be a form of mahogany, but not as regular as Brazilian, suspect Philipine. The big pro router has lots of grunt and I only use CT cutters and they whip through it![blink]  
  5. [quote user="Dick Smith"]Would that work on sash windows? [/quote] Can't see why not, Dick. After all, the putty only serves as a bed, to level the glass and thereafter seal it in. And real putty goes rock hard after a year or two, whereas a good glazing quality mastic stays marginally, well mastic, for much longer.  
  6. Personally, these days, Chris, I always use various forms of synthetic mastic. Putty is fine, but goes too hard too quickly. In any case, most glaziers "Putty" these days is a far cry from whiting and linseed oil. I am at present - slowly! - routing out my window frames and fitting double-glazed units and use silicon glazing mastic. Couldn't see the point in junking excellent hardwood frames for new, when each professionally made unit costs me £12 + VAT. Plenty of meat in the frame to bed a standard 10 m.m. gap DG unit + 2 X 5 m.m glass.  
  7. Not sure how the commercial legal system works in France. However, my hardnosed attitude to timewasters, dreamers and messers these days is simple. ALL clients have to sign a contract note before we commence. If they renege, then they are hit instantly, by a written demand for the agreed liquidated damages (specified in the contract under Terms and Conditions). Don't pay? then it's Small Claims Court: after two letters. Sharpens their focus. Surely, if they have signed the Devis, then they are bound to the contract? If they wish to avoid this contract, then they must be liable for your losses? Or a proportion of them? Many people are loth to take such actions, as they feel their reputation might suffer, particularly, I'm sure, in another country. However, personally, I now take the reverse view. People learn to respect one's toughness. Hope some alternative work comes along, Nick. Awful time of the year to happen, too.    
  8. [quote user="Dick Smith"]Effie - you are very lucky. I did similar five years ago and I am still living with some of the consequences. The trick is not to wear the socks... [/quote] Or wear socks with a carborundum sole...........  
  9. I think the problem would be, Chris, that without an aircap, all you would have is a sort of heavy "stripe" of paint! I have an old paraffin/oil gun, very similar to your sandblaster gun; they were used for chassis spraying, spring spraying etc and we used to use these for-degreasing engines etc, with Gunk type material. This "Atomises" light fluids, but doesn't, of course, create the essential fan spray, where the paint is firstly atomised by the material nozzle and then swirled into an even, wide, swathe of correctly atomised paint droplets. And, of course, different aircaps are used for different materials and this aspect is very critical. Different aircaps are used even for identical paints, but different applications, such as metallics, two-pack cryoacrylates, cellulose, air drying synthetics, acrylics etc. And as for oil-bound, emulsion.................... It is the impression that one can spray any paint, simply by thinning it down: and of course, one can't, as quite often, the amount of thinner required to reduce the viscosity, has a destructive affect on the paint and its drying system. And of course, your gun's overspray would be horrendous.  
  10. [quote user="Chris Head"] As you say Nick, the pot was one litre. It took 52 seconds for the pot to start to sputter, upon opening the pot there was 5 mm of water left in the bottom. The spray was even and fantastic, more than suitable for spraying masonry paint. WOW what a discovery! All say 'thankyou Chris'! [/quote] I wonder how well the sandblaster gun would actually atomise paint, though Chris?[blink] Even if it did, you would probably have to also wear skates to move fast enough along the wall or finish up with big "Curtains".[:(] However, you might create a new decorative genre for walls...............................
  11. [quote user="wen"]Thanks Gluey, the arguments between the OH and the 2 teenage sons over 'how-to-do-the-job-properly'  were unbearable. Now we all know why nothing was working! I'm thinking we should hire one for a few days. Thanks for the advice everyone, its all been very helpful...and solved one or two disputes as well.[/quote] My pleasure, wen. So now it seems that this forum is also a Family Counselling Service, too![:D] More seriously, the probable hire cost of the spraying equipment, would exceed the capital cost of buying an HVLP Earlex system as Nick suggests. I have a big Earlex steamer and it's excellent quality. And if you look after it (cleaning, rigorously, after each use), it will last for years: and will spray a wide variety of materials from Xolophene, to emulsion, to wood preservative for fences etc. A sound investment.  
  12. Sadly, wen, that sort of small compressor simply doesn't have the "Grunt" for the job you need to accomplish. Fine for atomising small quantities of low viscosity liquid - like water - and even for painting very small areas with (e.g.) timber treatment. Use it for chuffing up the tyres on the wheelbarrow! In order to effectively paint large surfaces, you need at minimum as I suggested, a paint pot and probably 8 cubic feet FAD (That's Free Air Delivered, which is simply the expression of the pumping capacity of the compressor pump) working at 60-70 PSI. That means roughly a two horsepower motor, for single phase and a large reservoir (Air Tank), too. Which is quite a big compressor set. Sorry, haven't quite caught up with metric measures on certain engineering aspects, yet, but give me time! [blink] Nick's advice is excellent: HVLP: Screwfix offer them (Earlex) and there are plenty on the net at tool and equipment vendors. I checked, and BricoDepot's is a bit small.  
  13. Spray Painting always appears so simple! Sadly, it isn't. Painting a building -e.g.-  is normally carried out using what is called a "Pressure Pot": this is simply a large reservoir which holds the paint, which is then forced along the material hose and atomised in the gun using compressed air. The type of nozzle (Air Cap) is pretty important as is what is called the Fluid Tip. Spray Guns come in two basic types: suction (paint pot underneath) and Gravity Feed (paint pot on top). Thus the first step is what sort of gun? The next is what sort of paint? Some form of thinners is normally essential (unless the paint is supplied -Gun Ready - unusual). The viscosity of the paint will be determined by a combination of experience and manufacturer's recommendations: and ambient temperature, as this obviously affects the viscosity. Paint too thin and it will run and sag into "Curtains": paint to thick and it won't atomise out of the nozzle and will be applied in blobs. Finally, the air pressure is also critical. If using a pressure Pot, the feed pressure is set at the pot (normally they have a built-in regulator) and for the atomising air at the gun. The normal trick of the trade, is to test out the spray pattern on a piece of scrap sheet material. Paint sprayers tend to use the wall of their workshop! Which is why you see different stripes of different colours! The "Fan" (which is the width of the paint spray pattern) should be a continuous spread of paint (depending on variables and gun, can be anywhere between 4 inches and one foot) and the density must be even with no patchy bits in the middle. When you spray, you (normally) cover a swathe from left to right or reverse and overlap each swathe, marginally, to ensure you have coverage as the extreme ends of the fan tend to be a bit spotty. If more convenient, by the simple expedient of twisting the nozzle through 90 degrees, you can spray swathes vertically. The distance of the gun from the work is also critical: too near and the paint will blob: too far away and it will be spotty. Don't forget to clean out the nozzle, fluid tip, aircap etc each time you stop, or they will block Use thinners and the correct bristle brush: never ever be tempted to poke out orifices with a bit of thin wire, you will ruin the jet. Good luck.  
  14. Personally, I would have nothing like a salt-based softener, since there are better ways to achieve the desired result. Manufacturers of these appliances and those who sell them, seem to universally decry potential problems. I wonder why? [;-)] Much on the web about health risks. A Random sampling here: http://clearwatergmx.com/saltbased.html http://www.inspect-ny.com/septic/watersoft.htm http://www.southernwater.co.uk/pdfs/educationAndEnviro/drinkWaterQuality/SoftenersWRCnote.pdf http://www.water-research.net/hardness.htm  
  15. Relative "Hardness" or "Softness" of water is simply a function of what mineral salts are being carried with it in solution. The normal enemy is derived from chalk/limestone, which adds calcium salts in various ways. Salt-based water "Softeners" have always concerned me, since all your doing, really is precipitating out, early, calcium etc salts in exchange for other salts. (I say early, since deposition of scale, is simply the natural precipitation of the salts contained in compound in the water, which then line the pipework/appliances etc). None of these is exactly good for human beings; or white goods dependant on mains water. Looking at the prices quoted, I would personally consider installing a reverse osmosis filter. These have gained in popularity over the past ten years and the prices have plummeted. Reverse Osmosis works on the basis of Osmosis - strangely enough![:)] - which is a wierd phenomonenon, whereby a liquid confronted by a semi-permeable membrane (of the correct type), "Osmotes" through the membrane at molecular level. In the case of water, H2O passes through leaving all the impurities behind. Reverse Osmosis filters were first developed for Nuclear submarines, creating totally potable water from seawater. They are used extensively, today, in cruise ships, all types of naval and merchant vessels and even on docksides to provide drinking water bunkering facilities. They are also by the military in areas of conflict where natural water sources might be contaminated or brackish. Effective Reverse Osmosis filters require a pressure pump to ensure correct flow through the membrane. Whilst those which function from the main water pressure, alone, can be reasonable, I am not sure of their true viability. Advocates of these filters for domestic use, point out all the nasty substances hazardous to human health, curently contained in tap water: these can include consistent minor traces of  organo-phosphorus pesticides,  selective (hormone) herbercides, various industrial source heavy metals, dioxins, pharmaceutical drugs, chemotherapy, birth control etc, as "treated" sewerage is invariably pumped back into river systems and mixed with industrial effluent, agri-chemicals leaching through from the water table. And water company also tap into the rivers to feed their "Treatment" plants! Critics of Reverse Osmosis claim the water tastes "Flat", since it has been de-ionised, neutralised etc. To be really safe, household drinking water should also pass through a high powered Ultra Violet filter, prior to the tap, as this kills any bacteria, microbes etc which tend to grow in static water and pipes. As a point of interest, Screwfix (amongst others) sell a domestic water filter array, 5 stage including Reverse Osmosis, for £199.99 designed for drinking water only. The caveat about relative filtering pressure must be remembered, however. Whole-of-House systems would obviously cost considerably more. Much data on the web. Water reference source here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_water  
  16. About three years ago, I replaced the hinges on a built-in fridge door for a chum. His very upmarket solid oak doors French kitchen units and fittings seemed identical to UK types to me. Hinges easily bought from a local Bricomarche branch. Only main difference were the French-style brass effect vertical exterior faux hinges. One thought: if you are compelled to change hinge positions, try asking a local (UK) kitchen biz if they can help you with plastic blanking plugs. These are available in a variety of colours to match different carcasses and in both usual hole sizes, and both hinge ends where they are different; mainly because most carcasses are pre-drilled for a number of different applications. Just a thought.  
  17. Interesting that you mention Unbrako, cassis. Most of the allen type HT bolts and set screws we used on formula cars in the early 70s, were made by Unbrako. GKN weren't as reliable.  
  18. Well, GP, there is now a new process called Torrefaction, for reducing biomass (including wood) into a burnable fuel suitable also for gasification.! http://hem.fyristorg.com/zanzi/torrefaction.html So I suppose we could call this a Black Art![:D]  
  19. Qote: "but will not wood burn without air !!! how do they make charcoal???  dave" Un-Quote ____________________________________________________ If you are suggesting that charcoal is made by totally exluding air, then sorry, but  this is incorrect. Any substance needs air to burn, simply because it requires oxygen. Back to basic chemical reactions once more. Charcoal is made by almost totally excluding air. This process effectively "Bakes" or if you like "Roasts" the wood, turning the cellulose fibres into carbon or if you like, charcoal. However to succeed, the process necessarily requires some oxygen and thus some air, for the original process to "reduce" the feedstock -wood - into it basic elemental constituents, one of these being simply carbon. The only substances which can burn in the absence of air are those which produce their own oxygen. Gunpowder is a good example, since in a gun (cannon e.g.) the propellant charge is tightly contained. The oxygen is released from the saltpeter or nitre or chemically Potassium Nitrate. Its chemical formula - KNO3 show that this compound is made up of Pottasium (K) Nitrogen (N) and Oxygen (O). Some other chemical compounds such as Mercurous Oxide will burn in an air-excluded state, as they also release Oxygen. To combust, properly, any enclosed carbon-fuel burning stove has to have access to a certain amount of air: more when it is burning rapidly and less when it is "Ticking Over". When a stove goes out, if it has been very well damped down, and not totally consumed the logs, what's left, tends to be part unburnt log, part charcoal: which you can use again the next time. As I said before, the Carbon Monoxide is produced by the fuel being "baked" partially into charcoal (carbon) and this carbon combines with oxygen from the air entering the heater to form Carbon Monoxide and the CO itself thereafter burns using yet more air based oxygen and finally create Carbon Dioxide, since it has adopted another oxygen atom to form the new compound, CO2.  
  20. Probably only needs bending a bit, GP! If it is anything like mine was................ When the guy dug it all out, he showed she whom must be obeyed. Apparently, there as only a tiny gap right in the middle! The rest was corrosion. What does now puzzle me, was that the house had to have an apparently tough lead survey, as part of the Acte de Vente. Whilst this was really picky, mentioning small areas of paint etc, there was absolutely no mention of the water mains................................. I had to change the whole mainwater riser in a flat in the UK a few years ago, as the surveyor for the mortgagee placed this on the retention list, as it was Early Edwardian lead. Strange.......................  
  21. Had mine replaced in September, due to a leak, on the supply side of the meter. All new now, from the road into the house, no cost to me. A French friend is looking forward to the water syndicate replacing his, as Mikew states, all the old lead has to be changed. Unfortunately for the water syndicate, they have to dig up (and renew) the tarmac courtyard, go across a tiled terrace (and renew), and then go yards to the road.................. If you wish to simply move the meter, for convenience, not sure: they maybe able to charge. If it's old lead pipe I would probably suddenly sort of have a leak.........[6]    
  22. Sounds to me as if you may well have problems with the draught. It is worth checking that the vent is actually opening properly: the thermostat may have failed. If you have an opening door at the front, for clearing out the ash, beneath the main door/doors, try opening this when the fire dies and see if it then burns up. If it does, then voila, a draught problem. I light mine with small bits of kindling on screwed up newspaper, then large bits of kindling, then simply dump split logs on and away it goes! Don't need any firelighters; I have used BBQ lighter gel when there was no dry kindling and this fired up the larger bits OK.  
  23. A straightforward chemical reaction, in fact. The first stage of the process is turning the wood cellulose into heat, carbon and Carbon Monoxide. This then burns, combines with more oxygen and forms Carbon Dioxide. When wood is burned, particularly in an enclosed heater, such as a Poele, Insert etc, the wood fuel is effectively "Toasted". The wood firstly is turned into carbon: when the carbon burns - with a blue flame -  it is burning the Carbon Monoxide, as a fuel gas: same as a coke stove. These enclosed type of heaters are all designed to almost totally combust the fuel, which is why when they are operating correctly, all that remains is grey ash. Lack of proper draught, leaks from badly sealed door seals etc and a damaged or incorrect flue, can all cause CO to be emitted into the surrounding air.  
  24. Thomas (not sure about the "J") Crapper: hence the slang word. Do I now receive a Third (Think Brooklyn accent?[;-)]) prize? Glynn P: yes, I stand corrected. Far too much to do trying to tidy up 10,001 things before heading of to la Belle on Sunday: only five days but compared to this maniac place, sheer bliss! BTW: Not too hard to swap a more conventional ballcock for the modern syphonic, which as GP states, take for ever. They are quieter, that's all. A chum had a chambre d'hote which was a converted farmhouse. As they went through, renovating the guest rooms, they left "their" bit as was. Fascinating old French loo! An eye level tank, connected to mains, sort of like a slim, small cylinder, and when you twisted the essential, high pressure water shot out into the bowl! Many a chap finished up with his trousers soaked, me included. The trick was to twist it very carefully; and I mean very carefully.............[6] Cleared the bowl out though and scoured it too!  
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