tj

Hi I have tried without success to find details of bus services in dept 17, I can find local services for example within Saintes or La Rochelle etc, but nothing for example on what services there are to outlying towns and villages. We need to get my daughter from St Jean D'Angely to Saintes on Monday mornings to arrive about 7am - 7.30am latest. Since this is for school I wondered if she would get a pass for this? any help appreciated    

[quote user="saffy"] he is still not finished and blaming his plasterer etc, and is now saying he would like the final installment even though it may take another 3 weeks to complete (according to him). [/quote] Quite simple, dont pay him !!

[quote user="Val_2"]All very well doing it in english but HOW will you manage to run a business in French unless you start out with french, because materials and such have to be ordered in french,paperwork in french and deal with french clients and you will also have to deal with the various bodies too in french especially an accountant and les impôts. I certainly wouldn't have benefitted us to do the course in english when we first started out.[/quote] Kevandvix most certainly won't benefit either, if its in a language he cannot understand. One step at a time, it doesnt take long to learn how to deal with suppliers, they want our custom just as badly! As for les impots, all my tax return info is in english !

[quote user="Ewa"]We've had a report commissioned by our builder about 18 months ago which came back saying we had a clay subsoil so would need a raised bed of 7x7m, 1m high. There is no mains sewage in the hamlet, so they couldn't be connected to this - what's happened? Was our builder trying to get the max possible from us? What are our options? Does anyone have this type of fosse, if so, what sort of costs are involved (just in case we have no options) and how does it look? [/quote] Others here will no more than me on this subject, but what I will tell you is, there are many options available, and you should contact your local Syndicat des Eau, pay the one off fee of approx 175 € and they will come out do a soil test and recommend a suitable system, the fee covers multiple visits and will be money well spent. My only reservation would be that your builder should have already done that? So maybe prudent to check with him first.

[quote user="fulcrum"]Does anyone know if lead paintwork has to be got rid of before selling a house. I seem to remember reading recently that the regs have changed this year and that owners now have to remove affected paintwork prior to selling. [/quote] Would be nice, since we are about to complete on a house with some lead paintwork. But I dont think so, we are just going to use an encapsulant to prevent any deterioration into the atmosphere. There is also an encapsulant for asbestos, and under regulations encapsulation even includes simply building a wall in front of it for example, a little difficult with windows and doors of course :)  

Hi You should be able to find something at Brico depot or the like. Just one point yo may not have considered, you never reduce the pipesize in the direction of either fosse or mains drainage, since it causes the waste water to back up. In your circumstances it will probably not be a problem given the size of piping involved but just something to be aware of.

[quote user="Llantony"] I'm losing the will to live on this one! I still don't see why I've been told by 2 sellers that their house would be cheaper if we did not go via the agent.  Yes, we'd be happy, but the buyer would get less!  As we'd pay the commission on top of the asking price [/quote]   I think everyone is losing the will to live on this one :) How much simpler can it be? if your not paying agancy fees then it must be cheaper!!!!!!!!  

[quote user="Llantony"] I guess that would explain it in some cases, but our village estate agent definitely charged commission on top of the price the seller agreed.  And the 2 people who've told me their house would be cheaper if I didn't involve the agent both have their houses with that agent!  This agent's advertised house prices do not include their commission. [/quote]   Llantony, I have a small place for sale I want 85,000 € for it, but you can also purchase it through an agent and pay them a 5000 € fee aswell if you like, which would you prefer 85k or 90k? regards

Hi The compact fosse system is EPARCO, be warned, you should confirm with your local Syndicat Dea Eau before buying one of these systems, as you are only allowed ( certainly here in 17 ) to install one if the ground drainage is in adequate for a normal installation, they are also expensive.

[quote user="Llantony"] I started all this!  No-one has yet answered my question about why French people say their houses will be cheaper if a buyer is not found via an estate agent when it's the buyer who pays the commission anyway.  We aren't really looking for another house, but were persuaded by 2 French friends to have a look at their properties and both said cheaper if we don't contact the agent. But if we did want to buy, if prices are generally going down it would make us aware we might get more for our money. [/quote] Have you not answered your own question? Since there will be no agent, and no agents fee, the price will be less!

Certainly different approach here, we have just bought an old place, when I went to the notaire the otherday to confirm everything, I said "Ok so yo have everything you need the papers, the money etc, sort it as quick as you can" the reply, "WHY?" Anymore laid back and they'd be horizontal !!!

[quote user="Dick Smith"]I think the problem for me (at least) isn't getting a smooth finish, it's that with some paint finishes there is a slightly different texture on the filler compared to the surrounding material. [/quote] Ah, if the paint is too wet / too thin it has an effect like raising the grain on wood, it lifts the surface fibres of the boards paper covering. A once over with a dilute PVA and mohair roller, or a blind coat ( 8 to 1 with water of the paint you are using ) diluted just on the exposed board not the joint )before painting should do the trick. Two coats is most always neccessary to get the proper finish, unless you are using professional grade ( not to be confused with Contract grade, which by the way is suitable for areas that need to breath since it contains less acrylic/latex ) at 5 € or 6 € a litre, which may cover in one depending.  It could also be the roller, a long pile or the sheepskin type will give a good finish.    

Hi Found the different takes on this subject quite interesting, but it appears the extremely quick and easy task of sanding is causing a few problems. When done correctly the sanding should be a breeze, the trick is to apply the first coat with a six inch plaster knife, using sufficient pressure on the final pass to leave only the recess filled. Although possible a single filling is not normally enough due to shrinkage, particularly around drywall fixings and the joint itself. On the second filling use the six inch to apply the jointing compound, with the knife clean strike up or down the board to remove about an inch of filler from each side of the strip you just applied, then make the final pass with a ten inch plaster knife this will result in as near as dammit the feathered edge you want, any sanding after it is dry should be minimal sponge sanding blocks are good, and a pole sander for large areas of ceilings. But gently though, good quality jointing compound only needs to see the sander, if you get what I mean!  hope it helps  

[quote user="Stefan"] tj/wilko   Thanks for the prompt replies.  Firstly, sorry I got the terminology wrong, the work was indeed done/supervised by a maitre d'ouvre. We didn't see the need/requirement  for a concrete base( umm..), the tank is a bog standard (!!) fosse septic produced by Sotralentz. and there is no mention of a base in their paperwork, they claim the tank should simply be backfilled with sand.  We get the very definite impression the guy rushed the job, backfilled with sharp sand or gravel using a digger, which is when the distortion occcured. Don't worry, we haven't paid him yet, but we may need to up the ante with the Architect, hence the original question. [/quote] I guess they were a little aggressive with the digger ! but having seen the distortion at the time it should have been put right. The project manager is responsible at the end of the day, to properly complete his agreement with you he needs to have the sub contractors complete the work to a satifactory standard. As to the concrete base, in this world of easy this, easy that, manufacturers want things to sound simple to attract the DIYers, thats not to say the tank cannot be installed directly, but by the same token takes no account of the ground where it is to be installed or the problems of levelling. Myself I would have at the very least had some kind of base, compacted ground etc, who's to say how far it may dissappear into the ground over time :) I joking in a sense, but you understand my point?

Hi If the concrete foundation it sits on is not level, then the tank wont be either, maybe thats one cause, and then needs to be dugout and levelled. But you indicate they have squashed it somehow so the circular opening is now distorted, signs of being quickly and badly backfilled. As to liability, my comment would be the same as other reply, if you have not paid don't, and let them sort it out between them  

Hi The board can be anywhere, another wall even, regulation height from floor is 1.80m, since you have an existing supply there will be no requirement for an inspection but doesnt hurt to comply where you can. regards  

[quote user="Alcazar"] I would add no "twin and earth" type cable, as it doesn't have insulation on the earth, and, Alcazar [/quote] Maybe missed something but all the twin + earth cable I use has insulated earth?  

[quote user="powerdesal"]Anyone got an answer to this water heater drain scenario:- Hot water outlet flexi is leaking. Isolate main feed to house and open hot taps. Water flow should stop when there is no cold feed pressure to drive out hot water from internal riser. but ---WC flush tank starts to overflow and continues to do so, presumably driven by the static head of the water heater back pressurising the common cold system. restore mains pressure (much greater than static head of heater) and WC overflow stops - bizarre! The hydraulics have got me confused, it cant (shouldn't) happen, but it did, until the water heater was empty(ish), Any explanation from the plumbers out there? Regards [/quote] Sounds like faulty float assembly! Alot of new WC's toilets come with that awful polystyrene float and plastic inlet valve assembly, which can prove to be rather troublesome with the high pressure, ( noisy on filling, due to ill fitting parts ) I think replacing with the brass type will solve your problem.   

[quote user="Russethouse"]How old is your daughter ?[/quote]   She will be 17 in september

[quote user="Rob Roy"]  possibly taking a panasonic x-ray (full mouth as Opas said) - unless this is what she had done at the clinic, in which case they will use that. Alternatively it might be decided she needs some work doing, whether taking out the wisdom teeth or some further forward to allow room for the 8s to descend. Just out of interest, I am curious to know why you decided to get the x-ray done yourself rather than visit a dentist first? [/quote] Hi It was a full mouth x ray. It shows all four, at around 70degrees from upright, and the forward teeth roots bending to accomodate their advance. Of course the next stop will be the dental clinic to confirm and hopefully have them dealt with as soon as possible, and it would be nice if they can come up with an alternative. When we visited the dentist a few months ago and raised the subject he said she would need an xray, and we didnt get round to it since the eye problem was foremost in our minds. So this has been our first opportunity, and didnt see any point going to the dentist again before having the xray to show them.

[quote user="Russethouse"] Is your daughter in pain then ? [/quote] No??  

Hi I took her to the Richlieu clinic in Saintes, no problems paid the 34 euros and was handed the xray. And the problem was immediately obvious. Strange though, I myself had a visit to a dentist, everything was done there, xray took all of 30 seconds, then into the chair and the dentist had the xray up on screen of his PC, he even used a small xray device inside my mouth as he was doing the necessary just to make sure everything was right, and for someone who dislikes visiting the dentist it was not the uncomfortable experience it has been in the past. thanks for all your replies Tim  

Hi As some of you will have read, we have been dealing for several months with my daughters eye problem, which is not resolved but appears to be improving, after her visit to the clinic in Kiev. She was prescribed a pair of CRT lenses which are worn only while asleep and give perfect vision throughout the day. Great, no glasses, no renewal of lenses etc. We are now blessed with another problem, I guess shes at that age, her teeth have been getting a little disorganised for a few months, I took her for an xray Saturday and having looked it she needs her wisdom teeth removed, they are as yet unhatched but are growing in a forward direction pushing the others. My question, is this done in hospital, so we should contact them directly, or do we need to see a GP first, with all the troubles she has suffered we have never seen a GP and are not registered with one.And any idea of costs, I guess irrelevent since it must be done, but an early idea will soften the blow:) as always advice gratefully received Tim  

[quote user="Marym2"] I have fitted a hot water heater, and have found that it group de securtie (spelling) drips constantly. I have tried various ways (turning down the inlet pressure etc) but it still drips, have I fitted it incorrectly, or does this nornmaly happen?  I have also a small leak and I cannot turn off the water unless I drain down the system, I turned off the cold water feed but when I tried to let the water out of the ballon, nothing happened. Am I doing something different from draining down like in England ?  as I will be going back soon and would like to fix the problem. Thanks  I hope I have explained but more info if questions are asked. [/quote] The pressure release, usually red or yellow is quite sensitive a little tweak might close it properly, but in constant use dripping is not uncommon as it is releasing the pressure caused by expansion of the heated water. Although the hot outlet is at the bottom of the tank, hot water comes from the top of the tank and requires cold water behind it to move, when you turn off the cold supply it stops. To drain the tank you can pull out the pressure release valve.  hope this helps

Hi From the tone of your post I assume you are looking for some qualification before you try the method yourself? It is a method, but requires skill, imagine how you are going to level those boards and end up with a vertical 90 and level, it really is difficult. Did it once in 96, (it was the spec for the job) didnt enjoy it and as a professional found it an unsatisfactory method. Unless you are used to these things, its easier to construct a frame from timber, dont use the metal framing available, its junk really, and most people use it because its a little less expensive than timber. good luck