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Gyn_Paul

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Everything posted by Gyn_Paul

  1. Is it literally the wall height? When assessing a barn you can't just use the wall height where it then proceeds to sweep upwards to a roof apex, can you ? Surely you've got to average the height across the room. ??? paul  
  2. Not heard that one before... Sounds a bit odd... Logic would dictate that if I ripped up my existing floors and relaid them as described I could then avoid taxe d' habitation as it woudn't then be a habitable area. Surely, if you plan to live in a building, it becomes - de facto - a habitable area ? Or is your problem that of change of use/ need for a c. d'urbanisme? * A word with the Marie is in order. Also, what is the building described as on your deeds? Are you currently paying Taxe d'habitation ?  * if a barn is attached to a house, and is sited on the same parcel of land as the house then it already is a habitable area if you so choose to develope it (if you're not in a conservation area, that is). paul 
  3. This culled from the DVLA website : VisitorsIf you hold a valid Community licence and you are visiting Great Britain, you can drive any vehicle for as long as your licence remains valid.  The appropriate full entitlement for the vehicle you wish to drive must be shown on your licence. ResidentsIf you have a valid Community licence, this will authorise you to drive in this country for the periods set out below.  Alternatively, you can apply to exchange your licence for a British one at any time. Provided your licence remains valid you may drive in GB - Ordinary licence holders Until aged 70 or for 3 years after becoming resident whichever is the longer period.   So it looks to me like you can visit and drive on your French licence but not move back????  
  4. Give it a go, what's the worst that could happen? It didn't work and you had to format the HD and start again. Don't forget you are supposed to uninstall it from the PC you 1st registered it with/on/from, your EULA only works for one machine (or is 'Pro' different from 'home' ? , paul
  5. Yes, and still got those grotty sockets with the square pins, the boxes for which are too deep for a stud wall, and an hour's graft to excavate in a brick one This Screwfixfix is clearly doing you no good at all and shoiuld be discontinued immediately. I would prescribe for you instead the arrivages catalogue from Brico Depot (topical application only: not to be taken internally). paul  
  6. while we're on the subject...   Does anyone know if 2 x BA13 has as high a fire rating as a single layer of the pink placcoflam? I'm building a landing at the top of the loft stairs (2 sides and a fire door)  How long is ordinary BA13 fire-rated for ? come to that, how long is placcoflam rated for? why is life so full of questions   paul  
  7. If treated with a borax solution it is then fire resistant I believe. Certainly you're right about the appalling price per fleece. My farming friend reckons the price he gets just about covers the cost of the shearer. paul
  8. [quote]Has anyone found a breakers network in France similar to Find -A Part in the U.K? I need a pair of headlights for a Peugeot 406 and would like to pay less than the 114 Euros each quoted for new ones ...[/quote] "...114 Euros each quoted for new ones..." would you PM me with the details please? that's exactly half of the sum my Peugeot dealer in Lege (44) quoted me yesterday ! (I only need the LH as I found the RH in a casse auto in La Roche... 112E was what they quoted me, but when he unearthed it, it had a lug broken off so I got it for 50E) I'm still convinced, incidentally, that the bodies of the lamp clusters are the same, only the lens is different ! paul
  9. [quote]I may be mistaken, but I thought the floor area was measured from the OUTSIDE for these sort of things? Certainly, my architect took all measurements from the outside. Also, if your barn is ATTACHED ...[/quote] "....Also, if your barn is ATTACHED to anything else, another living area, that has to be included in the calculation..."   Yes, this is the downside to the fact that if the barn is attached (and on the same parcel of land on the plan cadastral), then you don't normally need a separate certificat d' urbanisme.   paul
  10. [quote]WOOL...![/quote] Only if you have your own sheep ! Otherwise you would be better employed knitting everyone a jumper and giving them a mint humbug when it gets cold ! paul
  11. I've no doubt Punch will be hot on my heels with the correct name, but as far as I can remember you need a thing which was coloquially called a meggameter. All I can remember about it is you connected it up and pressed a button and read the ohms resistance off the meter's scale. Given that you press a button it would seem reasonable to suppose electricity passes and the meter is measuring how much! Come on Paul, over to you !!   paul-gyn
  12. [quote]And if you leave it long enough the "plates for life" might have become a reality.[/quote] I remember now, this is the tiny upside of the proposed 2006 new licencing system. The downside being we lose our beloved departemental numbers. p
  13. Thank you everyone for the info...   My apparent laid-back attitude to the time-scale is because we are in the fortunate position of buying the 23 house before we sell the 44 one (We need to be in the tax system as full residents a while yet for them to recognise it as our maison principal; therefore salable without CGT), so the 23 house is - for the moment - a maison secondaire. paul
  14. We became resident here (France) last June, so have just done the UK's 2003/4 return, and will have to do 2004/5 for the April and May. So far, so good.  When I get the form next month(ish) to join the French impots system, how can I complete it and submit it in time when the various UK forms with details of tax paid June-Dec won't be available until after April this year. Won't this be too late for the French tax return? Other's must have gone round this loop, I'd appreciate your experiences.   paul
  15. When I finish moving from 44 to 23 I will obviously have to replate the vehicles (2 cars and a van). Anyone know if this is a fixed fee per vehicle or is it CV-dependant? I'll have a 3 litre petrol, a 1.9 L diesel, and a 2.5 L diesel to do eventually.  paul  
  16. Morbihan, My first though is that if there is something coming out of the green socket, there’s no obvious reason (other than a fault on the audio card) why the line out socket shouldn’t work too. However, below are some things to check… (you might be wise to print this off first)   Given that you are running XP….   Go START/CONTROL PANEL/SOUNDS & AUDIO DEVICES then on the ‘volume’ tab click on ‘advanced’ to bring up the whole mixer, check nothing is muted or has the fader right down, now close that and check  ‘speaker volume’ and then ‘advanced’ and ensure that a set of speakers is actually selected. Come out of this and click on the ‘hardware’ tab. Run down the list of things in the box and confirm that everything reports “working properly” especially anything that reports a PCI Slot location. On this one click on ‘properties’ and check that the device usage box shows ‘device enabled’.   If you can hear music through the cans socket on the front of the CD drive, and through the cans socket on the back and none of the above has made any improvement with the (known good) speakers, then I suspect that either you have a driver problem (unlikely if you can get an output from the green socket), or the card is not seated properly in the slot (really clutching at straws now!) or that the card has ceased to function correctly, or is ‘buggered’ as the technicians would say.  Bit extreme I know, but you couldn't put your hand to another computer with a sound card you could swop and try could you?   good luck,   paul     Actually I posted this, then went and had a cup of coffee and then re-read the whole thread including reading your last detailed reply properly and I'm more and more convinced that if you can mute and control the level in the cans socket then - if all the above check out - it is a physical problem with the card or the line out socket. You could also try moving the card to a different PCI slot, but just re-seating it might effect a cure.
  17. Have you tried plugging a pair of headphones into the sockets on the back? What operating system are you using ? (windows '98 ? ME ? XP ?)
  18. [quote]a) I suspect that, if it is less than 20M2, then it is a DdT - but ask your Mairie. b) My dictionary defines verandah as; A porch or balcony, usually roofed and often partly enclosed, extending alon...[/quote] "... a) I suspect that, if it is less than 20M2, then it is a DdT - but ask your Mairie..." Thanks for that, I'll get the tape measure out as see. "...b) My dictionary defines verandah as; A porch or balcony, usually roofed and often partly enclosed, extending along the outside of a building. That doesn't really help, does it?!.." erm not greatly, no, but thanks anyway. (I tried spelling it with an 'h' but it looked too fhar beck: very "pah's carh is a jaguarh"  but you obviously went to a good skool where they taught proper spelling an' stuff!) . Definitions can be dangerously maliable things: in our last house we had a conservatory built on a huge decking area which also contained a large pond which ran under part of the decking. The whole thing being called 'the jetty' because Chambers defined a jetty as, "a wooden structure extending over water." Sounds to me like a spell of drawing followed by a visit to the Marie is in order. cheers paul    
  19. Does anyone know if a erecting conservatory (in a non-conservation area) is a PdC matter or simply a DdT? Also is a veranda (for want of a better word: a run of corrugated fibrocement sheets attached to the house and supported by stone pillars) still a veranda if I enclose it? paul
  20. This sounds rather like the heater a friend of mine has in his moblile home: it's about 2' 6" high, a little less wide, and about 18" deep, stove enamel brown, with a flue on the back. If it is the same... There is a top panel on the lh side with a wheel tap. His takes paraffin and you turn the wheel, then leave it  for 30 " or so, then lift the big plate thingy  and drop a lighted spill or twist of paper into the big hole. the paraffin will light and you put the lid back on. The smoky yellow flame eventually turns blue as the heat gradient and the consequent vortex establishes itself in the inside of the big tube (this is pure guess-work, you understand, based on watching him light it and then peering through the tiny hole on the lid!). Although his has no pipes attached (other than the flue) I can see no reason why there shouldn't be a water jacket version of this. paul
  21. [quote]Hi I believe that the earth spike must be a) outside & b) accessible and c) suitable - you can't always get the required resisitance with 1 spike (around here at least). You can run your 10mm c...[/quote] "..........I believe that the earth spike must be a) outside & b) accessible and c) suitable - you can't always get the required resisitance with 1 spike (around here at least)......" Nick,     Is this 'outside' bit new? I buried the spike in the concrete (well, in the ground before the concrete was poured) just below where the tableau is sited in the laundry. Just the top of it is showing then it is connected to a borne (2 porcelain isolators with a copper bar across them to measure the earth resistance) then it switches from unsheathed copper to the usual insulated stuff and goes into the wall and into the back of the tableau. Consuel didn't have a problem with it in 1998. (or maybe he just didn't notice? ) paul  
  22. [quote]Many thanks for the additional postings - yes I agree about Solar and geo Thermal and have broadly costed both sytems.Sadly the installation cost of Geo Thermal appears to be very high by comparison a...[/quote] "....By pressurised, do you mean simply pumped or totally closed with a pressure vessel for expansion ?..."   No I meant a mains pressure system: Imagine an ordinary French electric chauffeau, plumbed directly to the mains water supply; the flow from both the hot and cold taps will be (virtually) the same. Except that this chauffeau has a coil in it like a UK HW cylinder. The water in the coil (gravity feed, heated in your wood burner, ) is the primary, the hot water in the body of the chauffeau, and coming out of the taps is the secondary. The expansion would be dealt with like any chauffeau, by either an inbuilt expansion tank (or just a head-space in the top of the vessel) and/or a pressure relief valve called a 'groupe de securitie' (sp): as the water is heated and expands the valve weeps and a little runs out (it is plumbed into a drain). The good thing about this system is that it has no pumps to fail, and there would be no problems when the electricity goes off. (this is also the reason your primary MUST be designed with a big enough 'heat sink' to provide a sufficient margin of safety if - say - the boiler was banging away full blast, heating all the radiators in the house, when the electricity went off and the pump stopped. Less of a problem with the oil-boiler as there would be only the residual heat to deal with, but a wood burner, blazing away with a full load, would be quite a different matter).  
  23. Not sure what you mean by 'contour' paper: is it a vinyl? If it is, and the previous covering was an ordinary, porous paper, then I think you might have identified the problem.  Either water vapour was leaching through the wall, the cork, and the paper and evaporating (I suspect that the cork may have been keeping it to a minimum), or possibly the steam-stripping has taken off a sealer coat on the cork and it's now much more porous than it previously was. what are the walls made of? Is this an old building ? is there a known good DPC? is there any obvious cause of damp (soil piled up against walls, garden level higher than the interior level, leaking or missing guttering) ? unless there is an obvious source of external water getting onto the walls I would think carefully before sealing the exterior walls of a building without a DPC as - if the walls themselves are 'wicking' water out of the ground - you stop it evaporating to the exterior and risk making the problem worse inside!   paul
  24. [quote]NGCR, There are several ways of doing this. The simple[/quote] "...by the way have you thought about Solar or better still Geo-thermal, I believe there may be grants available for these...."   From what I've found out so far, these are less 'grants' as such, and more like 'tax credits'  which to be of any value require you to be paying income tax.  I'm still researching this, however, so don't take it as gospel.   paul Meanwhile, back at the original posting..... I'd go for a pressurised domestic HW heated indirectly by an open-vented primary: coil + obligatory heat sink of some sort (rad + towel rail).
  25. [quote]Sorry to be a pain we're just buying a place (don't know the tel.no) but have that of our neighbour and this is what the site tells me. Is this good or bad? Code Commutateur Local :
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