Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Gyn_Paul

  1. [quote]I am verinterested in delestage, can anyone point me in the right direction to get information, equipment required and installers. Thanks in advance. PS. There is a rumour that you can now get a 100...[/quote] Quillan, I bought my Deselesteur (- that doesn't look right, but you know what I mean) from Leroy Merlin back in the days when the mini circuit breakers were so expensive that they had to be kept in the vitrine under lock-and-key. Mine came with a wiring diagram and was easy to fit. From memory, it takes up 2 x spaces in the boit de distribution and is wired after the 30mA dijoncteur where it 'monitors' the total current flow (its trip level is adjustable to match the EDF disjoncteur) and opens an internal relay when that level is reached; you wire the 'sacrificial' items via the deselesteur and they come back on automatically when the total consumption level falls again. Mine seems to have some sort of timer inside which makes it wait 5 minutes or so after it trips before 'testing' if it's safe to reconnect again. Hope this helps a bit paul
  2. This is a certificate of conformity (conformity to the 'normes francais' quoted or their EU equivalent) needed before you can go any further. Avondale is who you should contact for this, altohugh you may then need an authenticated translation. Be prepared for a large cost attached to this: Swift wanted £350 (from memory) for one for my Challenger, so I gave up at that stage. p
  3. [quote]Do the Prefecture always keep the English Log Book when issuing a Carte Grise? We have a private number plate on our car and will need the Log Book to transfer the number plate. Regards Jacks[/quote] Would advise you to sell the plate and re-register in the UK before trying to French-plate it. Since 'cherished numbers' are unknown here you may find the number simply ceases to exist when you successfully (?) re-immatriculate the vehicle. p
  4. Then think about extending the air vent pipe up the side of the house to the gutter level to help disperse the gas, although it's only fair to add that it's largely methane which is heavier than air, so on a very still day you will still get the odd wiff of it at ground level.
  5. [quote]You need to test first, and then choose a treatment regime. It may not be economical to do it. Ours fails the Nitrate only, and would cost us 1000s to sort. We now use just for the garden, toilets and...[/quote] How much did you test cost, may I ask? paul
  6. Cary Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question but are you sure there are 14 +7? and not 21+7? The Mycrogynon ED version contains (according to the NetDoctor web site) 21 active tablet and 7 inactive ones so that the patient doesn't  have to remember which day she stopped on. I wonder, perhaps, if this is the same sort of thing? Can you decifer the active ingredients on the patient literature leaflet of the Adepal? p
  7. Beste Marjolien, Does you toiletten have a small tap on the cold pipe? if so, try turning it off then flushing it and leave it voor een of twee huurs. If the motor doesn't keep switching itself on, then you have found the problem. it needs a new washer on the mechanism. Sprecht U Frankrijk? Het beste informatie for cheap wood is local builders. Groeten paul  
  8. From memory, they are the same size as the standard placo sheets: 1200 x 2400. Where are you? p
  9. Of course the Mairie will give you the definative answer, however, if you are simply sub-dividing an existing bedroom you aren't adding to the tax-liable living area, are you? Mind you, if your access to the 'bedroom' is by a sort of loft ladder, the odds are that this is currently (in tax terms, you understand) not a habitable area. My Mairie told me that I can replace the ladder/loft hatch access to our boarded loft with a staircase but would need permission to add velux windows. paul
  10. Typical ! After moving a pile of sacks around in Briconauts to find one not leaking everywhere I discover on getting it home I've managed to get the only one with something leaked on the back of the bag and stained it. Result? I can't read the suggested ratios for repairing motar in old stone walls. So, can anybody help please? Chaux + cement + sand :  how many parts to parts ?   paul
  11. [quote]They could be loir or Glis glis, the edible dormouse. We have these and there have been quite a few posts about them on both this site and the Total France Forum. We don't use poison as it might also ...[/quote] Actually ear plugs don't seem to help in this case: I'm an expert on earplugs (for reasons I won't detain you with just now) and even my strongest -70dB wax plugs aren't man enough to shut out this structural noise.  Never thought the day would come whenI missed the city with its constant background noise; seems the country is just too damn quiet sometmes! John/Jackie - is there a name for this type of trap and have you any hints as to where to place them? Off to get a couple 1st thing tomorrow. paul
  12. My stone house joins, and shares a wall with, my large stone barn. On the house side, the party wall is well-pointed exposed stonework downstairs, and plaster directly to the stone wall upstairs. The barn side seems to be sound but obviously not well enough because we have gnawing, tap-dancing, stone rolling noises from the middle of the wall. The butt ends of the first floor joists go into the wall, and I suspect the noise we can hear is nest building around the end of the wood. I can't explain the volume any other way as - sitting in the house - you can't even hear the motor mower when it's running in the barn, the wall is so thick, but you can hear this (these) little monster(s) well enough. Honestly, listening in the dead of night you'd swear the noise was directly above your head; 4 feet along from the corner, and 2 or 3 feet out into the room, except that it can't be because the downstairs has no proper ceiling, so the 'ceiling' as such is, in reality, the underside of the 1st floor bedroom floorboards. Standing in exactly that place in the bedroom, you'd swear it was under your feet. Anyway, I've crawled all over the barn wall with a trusty can or 4 of foam filler and packets of poison and I'd swear there are no more holes, but the little ****** is STILL there each night (if I've walled him in, he's taking a damn long time to die!). My questions is, does anyone know if they are suseptible to the ultrasonic kit for mice, and would it work any distance through stone? Any other suggestions for ensuring a quiet night (short of demolishing the whole bloody wall) gratefully received. Paul (tired and emotional)  
  13. Have you used the green hydrofuge placo? it's especially for damp situations like kitchens/bathrooms. If so, then something to stop you expensive paint being absorbed like the proverbial sponge is what you need. I've used old, cheap white emulsion. I've also used thinned down pva glue to size and seal the boards before now. Really all you are doing is blocking the porous structure of the paper/plaster (if you've ever tried dripping water onto a stick of chalk, you'll remember just how much it will absorb  before appearing to be wet). If you've used the standard grey placo, then you'll need a proper sealer sold for 'wet' plaster before you paint it (Assuming your bathroom-to-be is of the damp, condensed variety!). paul
  14. Yes, Will, I take your point. But what exactly defines quality? My neighbour has cut his much smaller (but no less bumpy) field with a petrol mower: the sort with a large single blade, 4 wheels and you walk behind it. This finally gave up the ghost this Spring and he splashed out on a sit & ride. The difference in the cut is astonishing: suddenly it looks like real lawn rather than a scalped field! So certainly a longer wheelbase looks like it does a better job, but how do I know from quality? A Briggs & Stratton or a Koesler (?) motor souinds like a safe bet but anything else is just a wet finger in the air, I reckon. I think I'll go for the Yellow monster 17CH with the three blades. At least I'll be easy to find in the prairie. paul
  15. I'm  just about to buy an Auto-portee; sit&ride mower and am stuck between choices:  We have just over 2 hectaires in 2 fields, front and back, both on a bit of a slope. Everyone I talk to seems to have a different opinion (of course!) but the general consensus seem to be " go for the biggest cut you can afford and the largest engine. So I've researched our local outlets and for about 3kE I can get :  a 105cm 3-blade mower inc bac with a 17 CH engine, or A 105cm 2-blade mower  inc bac with a 23CH engine. The ground gets boggy when wet, and at the moment there are probably several pigmy nations residing in the back field where the elephants are getting corn in their eyes. Is a 23CH engine likely to be substantially heavier than a 17? would I notice the difference in power? (re- slopes) Is a 3- blader better with long grass or worse than a 2?  All experiences welcomed! paul
  16. Your house sounds like what we in this area call a sou(s)-sol, where the garage is half excavated into the soil, and the living area is about 4-5 ft above the mean ground level. Many of these have - on a more or less formal basis - had part or all of the basement 'co-opted' to be part of the living space. A couple we knew have just sold one such house, with the garage coverted into a sort of family room (by the previous French owner). Our friend worried that the house he was about to sell might, in fact, not square with the details the impots had about it. Eventually he screwed up his courage and asked the Marie, who said that - in effect - it wouldn't qualify as additional living area because the ceiling throughout the basement was too low. Might this not be the case with yours too ? paul
  17. .......... and which is best for SOUND insulation ? paul
  18. [quote]Yes Patrick, all lighting points should terminate in a ceiling box called a "dispositif DCL" which is basically a plug and socket outlet. Conduits just hanging out of the ceiling, with loose wires do ...[/quote] Paul   "....all lighting points should terminate in a ceiling box called a "dispositif DCL" which is basically a plug and socket outlet. Conduits just hanging out of the ceiling, with loose wires do not comply with French regulations...."   Is this new, then? - seems to me that every French house I ever been into sports a length of gaine sticking out of the ceiling with a couple of wires and a bare bulb on the end !   paul
  19. [quote]Hi Penny, We have just got a sky card for our place in the Vendee. You need to contact Freesat Sky on 0870-6061111. The card costs £20.00 & will be sent to a UK address (takes about 4 days), you ...[/quote] Good grief Marc, where did you dredge this thread from? I started it back in the dark ages; so long ago I think I was in Black & White! paul
  20. 2 quick queries: 1/ I've just changed PC's and seem not to have transferred my cookies properly so have lost the bookmarked site for comparing telecom providers. A move to La Creuse and 1st FT phone bill prompts a change, I think! Used 'Onetel' in the last house with no problems except that they restrict UK 08** numbers (seem to recall that one of them at least worked with FT), then changed to Tele-2, which was marginally cheaper, but their international lines seemed to suffer from echo problems more often, so reckon a compare-and-contrast again is in order. 2/ Just acquired Wanadoo ADSL which I signally failed to install and setup without resorting to the supplied disk. Now I seem to be stuck with a wanadoo email address which adds itself to the list of addresses which automatically run on opening Outlook 6. I can't delete it (well I can, but next time I run it, it installs again), and won't let me 'remember' the password, nor will it let me untick the "include this account when receiving mail" box. How do I kill the damn thing so it stays dead? p  
  21. Does it have a 'deep clean' option? My Canon 455i sometimes does the same trick: change cart (or come back from a month away) and it prints fine for 2 pages then - usually a couple of hours later - prints either feint or blank. Deep cleaning a couple of time usually fixes it. p
  22. [quote]hi Dennis Re Brico Depot, no they don't have a web site, well not yet anyway. As part of the Kingfisher group, it looks promising when you get to their site, but only job vacancies then seem to be a...[/quote] Actually, Brico depot used to have a website: pretty basic, but at least it had the map/postcode thingy and meant you could find your nearest one. I think it disappeared at roughly the time Kingfisher sold off Woolies. I understand the Castorama management HATE the Brico Depot people, because the latters turnover per sqm is higher and - despite their magins being smaller - their gross profit beats Castoramas, and they are always being told "why can't your group perform as well as this?" However, Castorama is the 'senior' of the 2 and deeply resents this jumped-up barrow-boy out-selling them! Perhaps this explains why they've lost their website! p
  23. Ron, As I understand it, the ADSL signal is multiplexed on top of the ordinary voice signal. Each phone socket being used needs a filter (looks like an ordinary French male/female phone plug with a US-type socket on the bottom). This splits the signal into data and voice. Since all the sockets on a french house system are simply parallelled I can't see that there would be a problem where on the system the phones and the PC are plugged in. There is a maximum limit to the number of filters you can have on one line - like the number of ringers on a British line - but I can't find it now in the paperwork which came with my Wanadoo modem. It did come with 2 filters, though! The only caviat I'm aware of is the tendency to degrade the signal (thus lowering the speed) with crappy old wiring and bunches of extenders. There is probably something akin to the 3dB insertion loss found with TV and satellite connectors. p
  24. [quote]Totally agree, Paul - getting a gas tank buried in the garden wouold be very expensive if it's just for cooking! We have gas range type cooker (bottle is kept in kitchen unit) and the whole set-up is...[/quote] "....Don't know why folks have problems cooking with a French gas oven. Just takes a little getting used to perhaps but I use the oven during the winter for most of our cooking and never burn anything...."   Most problems stem from the European (gas) oven manufacturer's tendency to put the burners either in a double strip, or in a circle, under the bottom plate whereas historically UK manufacturers site the burner(s) either at the back or on either side. I keep forgetting this and sit something needing slow cooking virtually on the bottom and then wonder why its base is black! The other thing is the regulo numbers don't quite match up. I've a combi with an electric oven which is hopeless in that it doesn't get anywhere near as hot as the thermostat indicates, and it uses the grill element as well as the bottom element so 'browns' anything higher than the middle shelf - great for sponge cakes !    
  25. Can't help feeling that - helpful though the replies are - some of them may be tiptoeing into sledgehammer/nut terretory just a tad. The original post made no mention of heating (central or otherwise), just cooking with a gas bottle. So... If you go to any of the shopping sheds in your nearest town, you'll find a whole range of cookers; some looking exactly like you'd find in the UK, and some quite different: as alluded to higher up there is one type which is about a metre wide with well spaced out rings, a small oven, and a cupboard for a gas bottle. It's beauty if that it's self-contained and requires no plumbing. Then there is the standard sort of cooker with a 1/2" compression male fitting on the back, fits into a flexible hose with the female fitting. Most come with a card in with the bits and pieces in the bottom drawer on which you will find as many small brass screws ("jets") as there are burners (including grill & oven if applicable). All 3 of the cookers I have bought in France has come pre-fitted for town gas, and with the jets for bottle on the card. Easy enough to change them over. Then there are combination cookers: 3 gas + 1 electric hobs with possible electric oven and grill - useful in a belt-and-braces sort of way. If you only intend to cook with the gas, then a 13kg bottle will last you about 6 months on a cooker without a gas oven; about 4 months with one. As Val said , butane can be stored indoors, but propane must go outside. Butane will freeze in winter, but propane won't (yet!). Downside is that the propane one are slightly bigger, and therefore heavier. Check with your local garage or supermarket what brands of gas they hold, then take yourself off to your local Depot Vente, or Troc (the equivalent of a second-hand shop - think Aunty Wainwright and you'll be on the right track) where you can usually pick up an empty bottle at about 1/2 - 2/3rds the price of a new bottle contract (they are usually being sold by people who have had central heating installed, or have the bliss of the arrival of the Gaz de Ville, and have lost the paperwork to get a refund on the bottle). Take the empty to the garage, and you're in business. paul
  • Create New...