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Opel Fruit<P><BR>Opel Fruit, Dept. 53<P>

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Everything posted by Opel Fruit<P><BR>Opel Fruit, Dept. 53<P>

  1. Sounds like the two rooms (bedrooms) are poorly ventilated. Which figures and confirms our thoughts - the mystery really was what the mould was. The problem with French windows....
  2. I have a Karcher steam cleaner, that can obviously operate without the heat - it is rated at 120 bar and will remove paint! I use it to clean off algae and moss from around the piece, and it works very well indeed. You can buy a lance with a rotating end, but I found it to be only marginally better, and thus not worth the extra cost, on balance. I do add some patio cleaning solution which does speed things up too.
  3. Time to bin the UK phone - anyone had a good deal recently on PAYG phones from SFR/OrangeF/BouygTel? Not interested in Contract. Scanned the various Prospecti this week and not a lot being promoted...typically!
  4. We have noticed for some time that the back of some of our bedroom furniture (particularly hardboard) gets fairly evenly covered in a fine light green powder, which brushes off easily. Anyone know what this is, and perhaps more importantly, how to prevent it? Ta
  5. Jour/nuit contactor: a small module that you fit to your "tableau" (fusebox). It is connected to a special pair of connections on your Heures Creuses capable compteur (meter). These are not power connections, these are connections that EDF make once or twice a day (at set times) by sending a control signal down the power lines. This makes the contactor open or close. So, at night when EDF send the signal (usually at some tome between 10.30 and 11.30 - it varies between localities) you contactor closes and the Chauffe-Eau starts to cook the water. Assuming it isn't already at temperature. In the morning, EDF removes the signal, and the contactor opens. This normally happens between 6 and 8 am. Some lucky souls also get a couple of hours each day, around 12 midday to 2pm. We don't. That's it in fairly simple terms. There is a bit more to it than that. And the contactor CANNOT be used as a disjuncteur - one must be fiited upstream of the j/n contactor. The contactor has 3 positions - OFF (it never comes on) - AUTO (it only comes on when EDF signal it) and - ON - this overrides the contactor and powers the Chauffe-Eau. Note that this remains the case until EDF remove the signal next time - in other words the ON position is not permanently on. To answer your second question, choose your tank size to cover most eventualities, without going too mad. Most households seem to get by on 200L, but there are occasions when this isn't enough.  Simply anticipate it and switch the contactor to ON. IT costs you more for the elec, but you're only doing it now and again, aren't you? I would say we had to do this once or twice a month.
  6. For starters, go onto the Wanadoo.fr site and look for the ADSL offers like : http://nos-offres.wanadoo.fr/no1119252929/ext/of2-gamme-extense.html? Choose the simplest and go through the checks to see if your phone number (and thus line/exchange) is ADSL ready. If yes, search on Google.fr for the deal you want. We happen to use Wanadoo, simply because at the time they were offering free equipment and no set up fee. The kit arrived quickly and worked from the box. I know there are cheaper now, but I need reliability. And I get it.  
  7. Sorry if the inference was unclear...according to a local architect we use, the answer is that stacks must be "within the walls". Whether this is regional or national, I don't know. I assume you have asked the Mairie for some guidance?
  8. The Comap (comap.fr) pipe and fittings can be bought in various wall thicknesses. Unfortunately, merchants and Bricos sell according to availability sometimes. It can be specified (likewise Table w,x,y in the UK).
  9. I thought I would try and consolidate some of the queries I have answered on this forum and others, so here it is. It is a little roughcut, but hey, it's free! Use it as a guide. Plumbing funnies The French use a bewildering variety of piping sizes, materials and techniques. Some of it makes sense, some of it is from tradition, and some of it is borne out of necessity.   The French do not allow the indirect storage of water. That means that neither cold or hot water is stored in open tanks – they are all sealed. The French hot and cold domestic water is supplied all around the house at mains pressure.   Most French plumbing is done in copper. They differ in several ways – the sizes generally range from 10mm (outside diameter or O/D) to 28mm O/D (they do go higher but not in domestic applications).   The 10mm, 22mm and 28mm are identical in size to the UK sizes. However, the French also use 12mm, 14mm, 16mm, 18mm, 20mm sizes.   It is possible to buy 15mm solder ring or end feed fittings (tees, bends, straights, reducers) and pipe in France - see www.cedeo.fr . You can also buy reducers/converters - 15mm to 14mm, 15mm to 16mm and so on. Not very cheap, but available.    Examples:    And:     For comparison, French mains water has a target minimum pressure of 5 bar – the UK is 1 bar. The Hot Water heaters have safety valves (Groupe de Securité) which allow the hot water side pressure to reach 7 bar. The central heating systems are limited to 3 bar.  (One tip to watch for is that you can often go from one size of copper pipe up or down by simply inserting the smaller pipe into the larger without the need for reducing fittings.)   Malleable iron pipe and fittings are still used in oil-fired central heating systems. It is awkward, heavy, expensive and rather unnecessary….   Plastic PER pipe is catching on as it has in the UK, (where it is known as PEX pipe). The advantages of this pipe are it can be easier to handle, requires no heat to join and is somewhat self-insulating. PER pipe can be run almost like cable. The disadvantages are mostly cost and range. Few Bricos carry a large range of PER fittings such as couplings and tees. In the UK, you have at least 3 well known suppliers of plastic pipe, and availability of pipe and fittings is excellent.   PEX (UK) http://www.johnguest.com/linkpages/SPFinstADV.html   PER (FR) http://www.acome.fr/fr/batiment/pdf_hydraulique/aquacome/AQPS059F.PDF     Plastic pipe meets copper pipe. PER/PEX pipe is "Fisher-Price" plumbing, and very good news!    Note that it is important to avoid long straight runs in 22mm PER/PEX pipe for the simple reason that it expands 10 times more than Copper pipe, and will distort or excessively pressure the ends of the run. PEX pipe typically expands by 1%, copper by 0.1% over a 60 deg temperature rise. In real terms, a 10m run of PEX will "grow" by 100mm or 4". Copper pipe will "grow" by only 10mm.     The upper 22mm PEX pipe has distorted due to expansion as the system temperature increased. The lower 22mm PEX pipe is unheated and remains straight.   Oil Heating   French heating oil is red diesel, unlike paraffin in the UK – so UK boilers won’t function without modification or burner replacement.   Oil boilers are supplied with or without burner, and with or without a ballon (a small hot water tank). Condensing oil boilers don’t really exist in France.   Oil boilers need an oil tank – there are two basic types. In steel (not many about in domestic sizes nowadays) or plastic, you can get bunded (double paroi) or non-bunded (simple paroi). If you buy a non-bunded tank, you MUST (by law) place it within a bund wall. The reason for this is that any leakage or spillage MUST be contained, and must NOT be able to contaminate the ground or any water courses or plant life. A bund wall MUST be able to contain the whole content of the tank + 10%. Alternatively, you get a bunded tank, which has 2 skins. Guess what the outer skin is for? There is no requirement for a bund wall with these. They cost about double the price of a non-bunded, or course.   The tank and boiler must be sited at least 1m apart from their nearest points, unless there is a full non-flammable wall between them.   The capacity of the tank depends on usage, physical space and how many times a year you want it filled or not. A small-medium property with 6-12 radiators may get by on 1000 Litres. Any more would probably be too large to site. Make sure Mr. Gazôle can reach it to fill it up…   Tank supplier: http://www.sotralentz.com/uk/habitat/article_detail-11.php   1000L Plastic Fuel Tank   Piping between the tank and the burner is fairly straightforward. It is always done in copper, and 10mm will suffice unless the tank and burner are more than 25m apart. These days, two pipes are used, a flow and a return. The return allows fuel not required by the boiler to return to the tank, and is used to allow easy air bleeding from the fuel supply line. The burner can draw fuel over a reasonable distance and up from about 2-3m below its level. The pipes from the tank enter a filter arrangement, which also has a shut-off tap on it. The filter element will need replacement annually. From the filter, two flexible hoses connect to the burner. This is to allow removal of the burner for boiler servicing without the need to disconnect the oil supply.   Oil filter - filtre de Mazout   Oil boilers must be matched to the burner – you can do this easily by buying a boiler complete with a burner fitted. If you buy a burner separately, make sure the supplier matches it to the boiler in terms of electrical compatibility, mechanical fitment and power output range. In reality, this is quite simple. Most electrical connections are similar, the mechanical aspects are standardised and the power output is a straightforward cross-reference job. It is common to buy a boiler from one manufacturer and a burner from another. It is fairly usual to have to exchange the injector when you buy a new burner. The installation leaflet with the burner will provide a table to allow you to select the right injector size. Invariably, the injector supplied as standard is too large, and would result in the boiler producing full power. Since the final output can be varied by screw adjustment once the burner is operating, it is advisable to select an injector that will provide your nominal output, and still allow you to adjust up or down a few kW.    Our experience has been disappointing for the consumers. Many of the systems we service have NEVER been set up correctly. They have been fired up and left like that. Properties of modest size have had hideously over-powerful boilers installed, and even then the boiler output has been left at maximum (factory default). The client has been running a seriously inefficient system. This is not in a few case - it is in many cases.   Boiler/Burner from different manufacturers.   The output requirement of the boiler depends on the total load. This is simply the total output of all the radiators added together, plus 10% for losses in the pipe work. It gets complicated when you have to heat a hot tank too. The rule of thumb here is to add 6kW to the load. In practice, this will provide adequate hot water reheating in 90% of cases, and if the hot water is not required, provides additional power to heat the radiators a little quicker.   Therefore, if you have a house with 10 radiators, whose combined output is 22kw, and a hot water tank, your boiler needs to have an output of around 30kW. Since boilers with outputs of 27-32kW are cheap and common, any of these would suffice. It is only then necessary to select the correct injector for the burner (which would probably have an output range of 17-32kW) and have the output set exactly once the system is commissioned.   What if you leave the boiler alone and don’t try and set the output with both the injector or the adjustment? It will probably work, after a fashion. At best you will get a phenomenon that makes the boiler continually fire up and down at regular intervals, which is wasteful on fuel and the burner longevity. At worst you will have a very inefficient, smoky, noisy and possibly dangerous boiler.   Although non-scientific, one can check whether the burner is operating reasonably. Firstly, you should never see smoke from the flue. Steam is fine. Secondly, the burner should always light well, with no flame-outs. Thirdly, there is a little observation window or door or flap that can be opened whilst the burner is running. The flame quality can be observed. In basic terms, the flame should have a distinct orange colour, be a series of flame "licks", not a cloud of flame, and should not have ANY blue or white tips. If the burner flames out on starting, the air needs throttling down. If the flame has blue of white tips or streaks, the air needs throttling down. If the flame is rough and cloudy, the air needs increasing. If there is black smoke from the flue, the air needs increasing. Alternatively, the fuel pressure can be increased or reduced if the air supply needs throttling down or up respectively. I do NOT recommend this course of action. You may run the boiler above its rating....   Burner operation must always be verified and/or adjusted using the correct measuring equipment by an experienced chauffagiste.   Injectors have their nominal oil delivery marked on them – in Gallons per hour. American gallons! You could try to estimate how much fuel you would use per hour/day/month/year…. Injectors should be changed every 2 years (at least) - they wear. Note that Injectors also have their spray pattern marked on them, such as 60S or 45S.  You must use the same spray pattern on any replacements.   Fumes   All boilers require some form of pipe to exhaust the combustion products. Most oil boilers use 125mm or 150mm aluminised or stainless steel pipe. The pipe begins at the boiler, usually with a type of tee-piece complete with a small drain pipe in the bottom tee to bleed off any condensation that forms into water. The side part of the tee fits onto the boiler, the top part of the tee leads off into the pipe that eventually takes the fumes off through the roof and out. Common exhaust stacks are simply vertical and are made up of 1m lengths fitted into each other for as long as is required. Where directional changes are required, the boiler manual must be consulted to see what is and what isn’t permissible. The manual will also illustrate where the stack outlet can be placed in relation to other buildings and obstacles. These must be heeded.   Pumps and the like.   Firstly, all French central heating systems are sealed systems. There are no expansion tanks. You fill them with water, purge (bleed) all the air out and finally add or subtract some water until the pressure of the cold system is 1.2 -1.5 bar. This should stay like this for months. If it doesn’t, there is a leak of some description. The pressure is read off a small manometer which is part of a safety valve that will allow water to escape if the pressure in the system exceeds 3 bar. This brings me on to another part of a sealed system – the expansion vessel. This is a biggish (red painted) tank that absorbs pressure as the water in the system increases in temperature and thus volume. On the manometer, you see the system pressure rise as the water heats up from typically 1.2 bar to 2 bar. If the pressure rises above 2 bar, the expansion vessel is too small (or requires air pressure adding) and must be exchanged for a larger one. If the pressure rises only a little, who cares? You just have a larger one than you need.   Choosing the right size of expansion vessel depends on 3 variables. 1) The volume of water in the system, 2) the temperature rise of that water, 3) the head of the system (that is, the linear distance between the lowest and the highest point in the system). There are a number of programs on the web for this. The one most trade use (actually on a CD, but online too) is here: http://www.xpair.com/calcul_cardonnel.php?calcul=4   Note that every expansion vessel has a precharge pressure (air pressure!). This is a critical pressure. You may find this on the label of the item; if not, simply use a car tyre type pressure gauge (a good one) on the shrader valve with NO PRESSURE IN THE HEATING SYSTEM - i.e. the manometer reads zero. The pressure should never be below 0.5 bar, and never above 1.5 bar. If the pressure is less than 0.75 bar, you must pump air into the valve until the reading is 1 bar. Otherwise, the vessel cannot function. Also note that the water pressure in the system when cold must be at least 0.2 bar above the precharge pressure. Otherwise the vessel will not function. Since it is preferrable to run the system at no more than 2 bar when hot, it is permissable to reduce the precharge pressure, if it is higher than 1 bar, to 1 bar and fill the system so that the resulting pressure is 1.2 bar. If you follow...!   Water is added to the system via a one-way (non-return) valve, usually near the manometer. Note that only a temporary connection between the one-way valve and the mains is permitted by law. This is to ensure that the mucky water flowing in the radiators cannot enter the mains supply.    Automatic air-vents should be fitted at strategic points in the system. As a minimum, the highest point in the flow circuit and the flow to the hot tank, if fitted, should have one each. Always fit as high as possible, and always in the flow pipe after pumps and zone valves. Never fit one in the return circuit, or you will draw air INTO the system!   3 Zone valves wth Auto Airvents after   To circulate heated water around the radiators and/or the hot water tank coil requires some form of pump (or more correctly, circulator). The “size” of this depends on several factors, as usual. One of the easy ways of dealing with this is to use a self-regulating pump. These can be set to vary their flow rate depending on the load, automatically. These are superbly suited to systems where the flow rate varies when thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) open and close, and where a hot water tank will require heat. Highly recommended.   Pump, Expansion vessel, one-way fill valve and Manometer/Relief valve (hose is temporary for flushing)   For some reason, the French insist on fitting something called a “vannes melangeuse” after the pump. This oddity is totally unnecessary and is used to inefficiently control the radiator temperature by allowing some of the boiler flow to immediately return to the boiler – a kind of crude bypass. Never fit one.   To correctly control the “temperature” of the radiators (and thus the heat output into the room) requires the use of TRVs and the correct temperature of the boiler flow to be set. It is normal for at least one radiator NOT to have a TRV fitted – usually a heated towel rail or a bathroom radiator. This is to allow some circulation in case all the TRVs close down. Again, the strong recommendation is to fit an automatic pump, so this becomes academic.   A Room Thermostat could be fitted, but room stats and TRVs in the same room can conflict in terms of conveying comfort all over the house. If a TRV was to close down before the room reached the set temperature of the room stat, the room stat would never open. The boiler would continue ad infinitum. And the converse is true.   To allow the boiler to heat hot water (assuming the hot tank is not an integral part of the boiler), requires a means of allowing boiler flow to circulate in a coil within the tank. This can be achieved in several ways, the most sensible is to use a 2 port zone valve connected to the flow pipe of the heating circuit. The other side of the tank coil goes to the return of the heating circuit. The zone valve is normally closed (by a spring). The tank will have a thermostat on it that is used to energise the zone valve and open it. Zone valves have a switch inside them that closes once the valve is fully open. This is used to switch on the pump and boiler. This can therefore operate independently of the heating circuit if necessary.   Timers or Programmers should be used to allow the heating and hot water, if fitted, to be controlled effectively and efficiently. These are cheap (but not in France) and easy to fit. They are worth it, and I would recommend a two channel one that can control the heating and hot water independently. A frost thermostat, sited correctly, is also peace of mind in spades. I would strongly suggest you buy/specify a Frost stat that has a minimum setting of 0 degrees or less, since you will find the 3 degree up ones come on far too keenly, and your fuel bill will go into orbit.    Insulation   All pipework in exposed spaces (roof spaces, greniers, sheds, garages, sous-sols, behind placo walls etc.) must be 100% insulated. The easiest way is to use the grey foam type available in all sorts of sizes.   Additives   Once the system is in good order, it must be filled with a Corrosion Inhibitor, and for peace of mind (particularly if your pipe insulation is "variable") Anti-Gel. Or your Assurance may be invalidated.   Note that you can get inhibitor and anti-freeze (anti-gel) in one product. Sentinel X500 is good, http://www.gewater.com/applications/sentinel/x500.jsp or Fernox Alphi 11 http://www.fernox.com/?cccpage=alphi_11&sub=8   With all the above, it is often cheaper to buy in the UK - about half of the price.   Hot Water   There are a couple of options here, assuming your oil boiler doesn’t have a hot tank fitted integrally. The classic means of heating between 100 and 300 Litres of water is to use a Chauffe-Eau or Ballon. These operate on electricity only, and are used on “Heures Creuses” during the night which is French EDF cheap rate. They are efficient and easy to fit – the connections and pipe work come as part of a kit. These, like all hot water production in France, provide hot water at mains pressure. Normally they take about 6 hours to heat a full tank of cold water to 65ºC. They have 1.8-2.4 kW elements, and always buy one with a Steatite element shroud as a minimum. You can get ones with a sacrificial anode and control box which controls the slow corrosion within. They are very dear, require the anode to be changed regularly, and frankly aren’t worth it. And no-one changes the anode, so someone utterly wasted their money.   The next method is to use a similar tank which has a coil inside that connects to the heating circuit, as described above. These are known as Ballon Rechauffages. They can take as little as 30 minutes to heat 200 Litres of cold water to 65ºC.   Better still, you can have a Ballon Rechauffage Mixte, which combines both an electric element (as back-up or for summer use) and a heating coil.   Note that whichever Ballon you choose, once full of water will be very heavy. For instance, a 200 Litre Chauffe-Eau weighs about 50kg empty, and once full will weigh 250kg (¼ Tonne – 1 Litre of water = 1kg). So, mount it somewhere safely and securely, and do use the floor mount system.   Electric Showers   Not very commonplace in France, although they can be bought from Bricos and Merchants. There are a number of reasons for this. In order to get a reasonable shower, a reasonable flow of water at about 38 deg C is required. An 8kW electric shower will deliver a fairly poor flow at this temperature. 8kW is also almost the entire power supply available to the majority of homes (9kW). The French are used to having mains pressure water at whatever temperature they like from their Chauffe-Eaux....etc.etc.   From elsewhere:   Plumbing tips:   Even the tiniest speck of dirt is enough to prevent a soldered joint from taking hold. This sounds like plumbers' propaganda, but it's really true. If a solder joint doesn't take hold in a few seconds, it won't take hold in a few minutes either. Even the meagrest trickle of running water along the area to be soldered will prevent the joint taking. No heat-resistant cloth is effective enough to prevent you scorching the floor and walls if it takes you ten minutes to solder the joint. Soldered joints stay hot for a long time afterwards. Burned fingers stay burned for a long time afterwards. If a new joint feels damp when water is re-admitted to the system, if may just be condensation and not a leak. But don't push your luck. It's easier to move a radiator than to build furniture around it. For water plumbing, there are few good reasons to persist in the use of copper pipe and soldered joints. Plastic pipe and push-fit joints are trivial to assemble, at least as reliable, and can be dismantled if necessary. All pipework expands when it warms up. Plastic pipework expands rather more than copper, so needs a bit of extra space at the ends. Plastic pipework is unlikely to burst if the water in it freezes. (Thanks Kevin Boone) Opel Fruit, Dept. 53 Dogs have owners, cats have staff.
  10. Soil stacks are all internal. Admittance valves are the norm in the grenier.
  11. I don't consider 1 dealer per department (average) a lot. Our friends with a Wrangler (poor sods) had to travel 200km to find one and then they didn't have any spares other than filters... They have since sold it and moved on.
  12. A bit more while I'm in flow... A ballon rechauffage mixte, fed from a boiler of, say, 28kw output, without any heating being demanded, will take cold mains water at 14C to 65C (normal anti-legionnaire temp) in about 30 mins. With heating on at the same time, probably 1-1.5 hours (very dependant on many factors, but you get the idea).  A Chauffe-eau or the ballon mixte using electricity would take 5-6 hours to do the same. Assuming the maximum 2.4kW element allowed on monophase. Cool people when rewiring add a "Creuse Bus" to their properties - designated sockets/outlets that are controlled by a jour/nuit contactor. Only when Creuse is active do these sockets (and thus those items around the place you want on Creuse) become live. Easy to do when you're doing the old place up, and cheap.
  13. A SARL is a limited company. rechauffage mixte is a hot water tank with a coil in it which is connected to the heating circuit to allow the boiler to heat the water in the tank. And it has an electric element to allow you to heat via electricity if you don't wish to fire up the boiler. You can get them without the element, which makes them cheaper. Depends what you need/want. They are called ballon rechauffage - the name of the other one is strictly called a ballon rechauffage mixte. The insulation levels for any of the Chauffe-Eau's you buy is superb - they have to meet both a Euronorm (EN) and Norm-Francais (NF) in this regard and other aspects such as electrical compliance etc. We paid nothing to have HC/HP. We pay about 10.5c per unit on HP and 6.5c per unit on HC. The other advantage of HC is you buy 2 € timers for your washer/dryer/dishwasher/pool pump and run these on Creuse too.....
  14. For a dish with a good Universal LNB, buy the Analogue Sat Kit from one of the Bricos for about 30 EUR and bin the receiver. The dishes are 80-85cm and the LNB is a low noise one. Their performance as far south as Barcelona is excellent in all weathers. And cheap!
  15. There's dozens of them, not sure why the problem. Voila.fr and freesurf.fr are as good as any.
  16. Personally, I use a Chauffe-Eau on Creuse. And I work with a French SARL who generally installs Oil with a rechauffage mixte. Why do I use a Chauffe-Eau? 1) they cost about 100 Eur, plus the groupe securite, and last for at least 7 years, and are dead easy to fit. Cost of Chauffe-Eau plus groupe securite plus jour/nuit contactor - about 200 Eur. 2) The equivalent indirect version costs at least 5 times that, and more because the heating circuit requires either a pump or zone valve and more pipework. So, assume that the non-Chauffe-Eau route is taken, you pay out about 1000 Eur. You would have to use an awful lot of cheap rate Elec for a long time to pay back the difference.  
  17. Ours was converted from 3 to single phase FOC. However, they have had to return 3 times to put right the botch jobs...and replace the cabling from the UGLY concrete post in the road to ours - they left it bare in places. And the compteur wiring and fitment is a joke. Free = crap?
  18. And do be careful with small-scale "imported" chilled/perishable products. Sitting on a hot ferry for umpteen hours in a coolbag or cheap 12V fridge box = god knows. 
  19. The Mairie in the first place. They have a degree of responsiblity for their commune, its inhabitants and its arterial ways. Leave your grass too long and they will shout, etc. (I think you mean quiet, not quite!)
  20. The Intex filter/pump we use (208R) works extremely well. Provided you keep the cartridge clean, it shifts even the most profound clag. We fill from a well too, and the detritus takes only a day or two to be filtered out. And the cartridges are dirt cheap. Someones doing something wrong? As far as testing is concerned, the DPD/Phenolic tablets cost peanuts. 20 tablets cost Eur 1.50
  21. Look in your handbook and see if the headlights are Xenon or not. If so, you can flip a lever (varies from vehicle to vehicle) and alter the beam. Xenon headlights are "unisex". Otherwise, you need to buy the headlights. Which I suspect you will have to unless your Jeep is less than 2 years old. Jeeps are not popular in France either, so spares are going to be fun... but not impossible.
  22. And the Viamichelin GPS software tells you how much to have ready as you approach the Peage!!  
  23. Look in the local Top Annonces paper, and similar. Also, there are dozens of cars with AV on them around and about. They tend to be cheap, in terms of the usual prices. We bought both ours off eBay.fr - both cheaper than Occasion sites, and fortunately within 60 kms of us! If you want just a runabout, get a petrol car, not diesel. Diesels cost lots more, and if you only potter about, the higher initial price will take a long time to recoup (years).
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